Freelander 1 Inlet nut came loose. How to glue copper + ABS?

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Dreamed

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The copper nut that holds inlet manifold to crankcase came loose. It basically came out of the plastic hole that holds it. I marked it in the picture attached (ignore the useless blue line :D). I tried several methods of gluing it back into the ABS plastic, but every time I screw the inlet back, the nut comes out of its hole.

Any suggestions on how I can stuck it back in the hole?
 

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Despite what it says on the tube of glue, it often takes a couple of days for it to set properly.

Col

Agreed. Even 5 minute epoxy will take a couple of days to reach a good strength, but it continues to strengthen for a long time after the initial mixing.
 
Hopefully not a stupid question but could you pull the brass insert out and drill right through, then use a longer bolt and a nut at the back.
Not sure what the clearances are but might be a last resort if gluing doesn't work.
 
Hopefully not a stupid question but could you pull the brass insert out and drill right through, then use a longer bolt and a nut at the back.
Not sure what the clearances are but might be a last resort if gluing doesn't work.
It backs into the cam cover Ali, so it's probably not a good idea to drill right through it. ;)
 
Hopefully not a stupid question but could you pull the brass insert out and drill right through, then use a longer bolt and a nut at the back.
Not sure what the clearances are but might be a last resort if gluing doesn't work.

Thanks for suggestion! I am now waiting for glue to set. I leave it to cure for a month or two just to avoid drilling the cam cover.

Honestly I would not dare use a drill there. Worst case I will leave it like that. Will this affect performance 100%? What are the odds for air to escape, if all other screws are tight....

Or maybe use some silicone around the orange gasket.

But I hope it cures strong in 2 days
 
I think there is a possibility of a leak if the bolt isn't put back in, if you use any kind of sealant, there is a risk of a bit of it being sucked into the engine unless you are very careful. If Iwas going to use any sort of sealant, I'd use Hylomar. Did you clean out every trace of the old glue before you glued it again? Glue li,e very clean surfaces to stick to.

Col
 
It won't matter if there's a small leak, as the turbo will supply more air than the engine needs. Mine is missing one of the bottom nuts, and has been since I got it. It pulls full boots from 2000 Rpm, so the slight leak it has isn't a problem.
 
I think there is a possibility of a leak if the bolt isn't put back in, if you use any kind of sealant, there is a risk of a bit of it being sucked into the engine unless you are very careful. If Iwas going to use any sort of sealant, I'd use Hylomar. Did you clean out every trace of the old glue before you glued it again? Glue li,e very clean surfaces to stick to.

Col

I also used hylomar actually. To my surprise today I took off the inlet and the nut was actually unmovable. So basically what happened was... last time when I tested the nut and saw it moving I stopped screwing altogether. 2 months later - today, the nut was just 2 mm out of its cage, but seized.

But because “Only God Forgives”, another screw at the top brake in half as I was taking the inlet out. Luckily I could remove the remaining bit from the nut....

So now I have another question. Is it easy to just hammer the bolt from the inlet? It has this safety mechanism and is attached to the inlet. How does it come out?
I would like to replace the bolt if I can remove the broken one...
 
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It won't matter if there's a small leak, as the turbo will supply more air than the engine needs. Mine is missing one of the bottom nuts, and has been since I got it. It pulls full boots from 2000 Rpm, so the slight leak it has isn't a problem.

That’s great to know
 
Managed to get the bolt out. Initially it came out together with that "metallic cylinder housing", then I pushed it out from it.
 
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