Injector flange bolts snapped and some

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angeloc

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,012
Location
West Wales
Hi - I am new to this forum

Had a Freelander for years but got rear ended 2 weeks ago so bought another! Last one was a 2.0D this one is a TD4 on an 03 with 86k and really nice condition except for one ickle ickle problem!!!

However I bought it cheapish so I have some scope.

The problem - all was well but a bit of smoke that stopped when hot - today I changed the transmission filter for the BMW car one and the EGR bypass is on it's way.

While doing the job I notice number one injector was higher than the rest - the flange that holds it has snapped in the middle and this allowed the injector to lift up - now I know why it was a bit smokey!!! Oh yes and yesterday started fluffing under load.

So I set about removing it - yes I know!!! So one flange bolt was already broken bit the assembly came out ok that side - however the other side which was now distorted and taking the strain of the lifting injector snapped it's thread down inside the plastic hole. I swore at this point! Even though I had soaked it in copious amounts of WD40

It is a clean break and there is a few mms of thread proud if the head but it's down in a tube.

Any ideas? I want to try and avoid a head removal. I tried getting the cam cover off but it's held by the other injectors and one of thosechas a similarly seized nut so I decided not to go there.

I though about putting a small tube over it and seeing if I could mig weld into tube in the hope that it would then turn out.

To add insult to injury when I took the manifold off I saw that heater plug number one was sheared off flush with the block as well - seems a budget had it at some point.

Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks
 
Doh! Why didnt I think of just welding a nut!!! Over analysing I have been all afternoon wondering if I could weld a socket onto it or a tube etc. a nut would sit nice and flat and take a turn or two on the remaining thread and of course a small nut would be far simpler.

Cheers I will give it a go but not now this weekend - the sun shines and I feel the need for a motorbike ride!

I dont thinkl it has been butchered its all clean etc - it looks like the problem was a cracked and fianlly broken retaining flange and a less than competent garage has tried to remove it probably realised it wasnt going and so left it for the remaining side to take all the strain.

Looking at another injector I can see how easliy this can happen. The top retaining nut on the flange is heavily corroded - only 2 nuts across the whole set are affected, all otheres moved easily. So the corroded nut will eventually crumble to nothing and break off, leaving the injector supported by one side (just like mine) then over time the injector wil force itself out and hey ho you have the same problem.

OK people get checking those nuts!!!
 
They are nuts on studs - yes its an easyish fix for the other one - no room for as splitter more a very careful use of a dremel to thin it to the point of disintegration then clean up the thread and pop a new stainless nut on - or go the whole way and take both sides off and remove the flange then there is another nut that is locked on the stud to allow you to take the stud out. However given what has just happened to me I may just go the clean up and replace the nut route.

Thanks
 
are they nuts and studs or bolts? if they are studs with nuts on you could use a nut splitter to remove the nut on the other affected one..... if you can get it in there

Or a good sharp chisel across a flat provided you support the opposite side of nut to prevent bounce.....
 
don't forget that when you put the injectors back in you need to replace the sealing washer they sit on (in the bottom of the hole) or they will chuff past the seal

Mmmm how do I get that out? It's very dark down there - is it simple a case of fishing around with hook of some type?

Any thoughts on how to sort the injector - it looks pretty rough - I though of taking it to a local diesel company for a refurb.

I hope it will seat it self at the correct height eventually but I will look for hints and tips when I get nearer the time - probably next weekend now as I need a new flange from Landrover
 
Thought I would put up a couple of photos - it looks like a really tricky job welding a nut on without removing the camcover.
519c092b-b6fd-dfb0.jpg

519c092b-b714-c31d.jpg

And if I have to remove the other injectors to get this off here is what I am looking at!
519c092b-b73d-904e.jpg

What would you do? I have a slight problem in that the Freelander is at my home and outside - getting it somewhere is possible but not easy!
I am pretty good at spannering and have good tools but not specialist injector ones.

I am toying with cutting out a section of the camcover in the hope I can plastic weld it back later but don't know if that is feasible.

Thanks in advance.
 
I can see why it's been left alone and sold on.
The studs are so corroded I doubt they are going to jack out the injectors. Not much option but to attempt removal and if they break so be it. Injector removal will be a nightmare if they are seized. I'd put money on you having to drill out a few if not all the studs in the end. Not a job to be doing outside the house if there's another option.
 
Yes I think you are right - the other 2 injectors are clean so fingers crossed for those. I have taken the first one out so one stud to sort plus whatever comes along.

I have conceded to not doing it myself now so going to hire a trailer and get it to a friendly garage I know about. It's not looking like a head off job though so hopefully won't be too expensive.
 
Wow, that looks extremely corroded, what year car is it?

Do the injectors actually have to come out to take the cam cover off?

BTW, the little seal that someone mentioned normally comes out with the injector - it's a copper washer but normally sticks to the injector.

Failing that, would soak the bolts in penetrating fluid and try them, if they don't shift, then take it to a garage and ask them to have a look.

As for getting the stud out, all I could suggest would be to centre punch it and drill it out then when there's just a bit of it remaining, collapse it on itself - however, not sure how much room there is and whether this is feasible.

Good luck with it!
 
Only one of the injectors is corroded and it looks worse in the phot than it actually is. Its an 03 with 86k so it is puzzling but hey ho. The rest if the kit in the engine is good and clean.

To get the camcover off it looks like you do have to get the injectors out as the sit on top of it effectively - here is a photo of the holes left from the one I did remove.
519c092b-5084-cfcb.jpg

So you can see the centre large hole is where the injector goes the other two are for the studs.

So the plan is get it to a garage because I have to work outside and with work can only do it at weekends and I think this needs a couple of tools I dont have. I am lucky that I do all my own stuff and only need a garage now and again for convenience and the guy is fair and not expensive but can do this kind of difficult stuff - bit old school gets his hands dirty which helps.

Bit of a heads up for other owners though - I think I would be taking the top cover off and having a quick look - perhaps spraying them with at least WD40 or better ACF50
 
I can see why it's been left alone and sold on.
The studs are so corroded I doubt they are going to jack out the injectors. Not much option but to attempt removal and if they break so be it. Injector removal will be a nightmare if they are seized. I'd put money on you having to drill out a few if not all the studs in the end. Not a job to be doing outside the house if there's another option.

Are the studs designed to jack the injectors out? I only ask as when I asked LR about replacing my rocker cover gasket, they said that the injector removal can crack the head, meaning they use a slide hammer.
Confused now as I really need mine doing, it's still leaking!
 
I can't see how they can jack out the injector as the are only around the back of it. Also unscrewing just removed the top bolt and the plate just lifts off then leaving the studs behind with another fixed nut below it for the stud removal.

I believe you need 2 tools - one is a kind of socket with a wide slot in it so the electric plug can fit into it - this removes the injector top. The other tool is a slide hammer with a thread that locks onto the injector body.

The big worry for this is I would suggest not the injector but the studs on the flanges - they will break and will need drilling out and taping.
 
I can't see how they can jack out the injector as the are only around the back of it. Also unscrewing just removed the top bolt and the plate just lifts off then leaving the studs behind with another fixed nut below it for the stud removal.

I believe you need 2 tools - one is a kind of socket with a wide slot in it so the electric plug can fit into it - this removes the injector top. The other tool is a slide hammer with a thread that locks onto the injector body.

The big worry for this is I would suggest not the injector but the studs on the flanges - they will break and will need drilling out and taping.

thats what i thort. if they did jack out the injector then i would have been doing this week, oh well.
 
It's in with my friendly garage now - he seems hopeful he can do it without major surgery.

BUT I went to get parts - Landrover Stealer - the collar which looks like it should be expensive was just £5 HOWEVER the 6pm studs - they wanted £31 + vat each yes each !!!! I checked after laughing out loud and so did Dick Turpin - yes that's the price - I did not hand over my money - funnily they didn't take me up on my offer to supply them with stainless alternatives at half that!!! I wonder why. I think the parts catalogue must be wrong so decided the collar ar £5 was a bargain - ordered and paid for before any second thoughts!
 
It could be shown as one item but perhaps the price was for one pack?

BTW I wouldn't waste my time ****tin you, the studs really are designed to jack out the injector......it only works if injectors aren't seized though...
 
It could be shown as one item but perhaps the price was for one pack?

BTW I wouldn't waste my time ****tin you, the studs really are designed to jack out the injector......it only works if injectors aren't seized though...

No offence meant - I just dint see how they can jack out the injector - once you slacken the top nuts off the plate is loose - how does it then jack the injector off? Thanks
 
No offence meant - I just dint see how they can jack out the injector - once you slacken the top nuts off the plate is loose - how does it then jack the injector off? Thanks


Er.... the plate (c-clamp bit) shouldn't be loose - is it in upside down by any chance? It's easily done and will fit but won't tighten down properly. If it was in upside down, it might explain how it cracked...
 
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