Disco 2 Injector fault code

Scarecrow3 · Apr 4, 2019

Hi all,

Just returned from a long run in the Disco. About 10 miles from home she started to feel lumpy and under powered, and the idle is about as smooth as a bag of spanners. Whipped out the Nanocom and I’ve got “Injector 2 peak charge short (logged)” showing.

Looking at search results I’m seeing mention of loom, ECU and injector as culprits. I replaced the injector loom last year so unlikely that’s gone down again, any recommendations for how to diagnose further? If I have to replace an injector is that a tricky job?

Thanks in advance

sierrafery · Apr 4, 2019

If it was any other loom than genuine LR check for oil at the red plug first cos there were cases when aftermarkets lasted less than 6 months. If the plug is dry see live injector balances with nanocom cos it can still be bad contact in that injector's plug ... the ''peak charge'' codes are rarely triggered by the injector itself cos it's about the solenoid's feed

Scarecrow3 · Apr 4, 2019

sierrafery said:
If it was any other loom than genuine LR check for oil at the red plug first cos there were cases when aftermarkets lasted less than 6 months. If the plug is dry see live injector balances with nanocom cos it can still be bad contact in that injector's plug ... the ''peak charge'' codes are rarely triggered by the injector itself cos it's about the solenoid's feed

Thanks for the advice, it’s heaving down with rain at the moment so I’ll check the plug when that stops! I assume on live data I’m looking for injector 2 to have a different value to the others? If so presumably the first step is to just clean the connector contacts and see if that fixes it?

sierrafery · Apr 4, 2019

The certain way to rule out that injector is to swap it with nr 3 then save the codes accordingly and go for a ride...if the fault codes moves together with the sensor then it has a problem but if not it's something on nr 2's circuit...was it some cheap aftermarket loom?

Scarecrow3 · Apr 4, 2019

It was an OEM loom, but not in a Land Rover bag so I guess that would count as aftermarket. Rain has stopped so I pulled the plug, there was some oil in it but none coming out where I made an opening in the outer sheath last year to let remaining oil in the lower part of the loom drain out after replacing the upper part, so not sure if that’s just residual from the old leak. I’ve cleaned it out as best I can and can see if it reappears.

I checked the cylinder balances and get readings of 1:-3, 2:17, 3:0, 4:-3, 5:-10. Certainly looks like 2 is way off, and 5 looks a bit out too but I’ve no idea what they ought to look like!

sierrafery · Apr 4, 2019

Good balances are between +/- 4 but up to max 10 is acceptable though if one is out the others will compensate for it and they all go out a bit... you'll have to swap injectors to get to a clear conclusion

Scarecrow3 · Apr 4, 2019

sierrafery said:
Good balances are between +/- 4 but up to max 10 is acceptable though if one is out the others will compensate for it and they all go out a bit... you'll have to swap injectors to get to a clear conclusion

Thanks again sierrafery for quick, clear advice. Not sure I have the expertise/time/confidence to start swapping injectors so it might need to get done professionally, but at least I now have some idea whether what the garage tells me makes sense!

Si Click · Apr 4, 2019

Scarecrow3 said:
Not sure I have the expertise/time/confidence to start swapping injectors so it might need to get done professionally, but at least I now have some idea whether what the garage tells me makes sense!

Yeah, you do, it's not difficult. A huge part of driving one of these is learning the mechanical skills to keep it running reliably and economically. Watch the video below first then decide if you are up for it. You will need the special reverse hammer tool to get the injectors out safely and a diagnostic tool to code the injectors. You might find someone local to you who will lend them to you, or you could reasonably argue that you will probably save yourself half the cost of a Hawkeye diagnostic tool in labour costs alone.

Scarecrow3 · Apr 4, 2019

Si Click said:
Yeah, you do, it's not difficult. A huge part of driving one of these is learning the mechanical skills to keep it running reliably and economically. Watch the video below first then decide if you are up for it. You will need the special reverse hammer tool to get the injectors out safely and a diagnostic tool to code the injectors. You might find someone local to you who will lend them to you, or you could reasonably argue that you will probably save yourself half the cost of a Hawkeye diagnostic tool in labour costs alone.

Thanks Si, I’ll set aside a half hour to go through that and then see if I need to take a brave pill!

biketeacherdave · Apr 4, 2019

I treated the injector harness as a yearly replaceable part when i had my D2

Scarecrow3 · Apr 5, 2019

That’s a great video, very easy to follow. Doesn’t look as daunting as I thought.

Given there’s oil in the loom and sierrafery’s comment on aftermarket parts I’m thinking it’s probably worth putting a genuine LR one on to see if that cures it before getting hold of a slide hammer, etc?

brianconwy · Apr 5, 2019

You don't really need a slide hammer. Mine lifted out quite easily with a heel bar.

I was surprised how easily they came out.

sierrafery · Apr 5, 2019

Yes you can lever them out with many things, important is to be able to hook it ...see the principle here (sec 40>) ...which IMO is better too cos the slide hammer gives too much shocks to the solenoid

Scarecrow3 · Apr 6, 2019

Can’t find a genuine LR injector loom in stock anywhere nearby so have got one coming in a few days. Step one I’ll swap that over and either fix it or eliminate that as a cause. Local independent told me they always fit Britpart ones which are “just as good” but I have my doubts...

brianconwy · Apr 6, 2019

Scarecrow3 said:
Can’t find a genuine LR injector loom in stock anywhere nearby so have got one coming in a few days. Step one I’ll swap that over and either fix it or eliminate that as a cause. Local independent told me they always fit Britpart ones which are “just as good” but I have my doubts...

I have my doubts about a lot of the stuff the car left the factory with.

Si Click · Apr 6, 2019

brianconwy said:
You don't really need a slide hammer. Mine lifted out quite easily with a heel bar. View attachment 174422I was surprised how easily they came out.

Tried a similar heel bar and a pry bar on mine, first came out second would not budge. Drove to Dingocroft and bought the slide hammer which made the job easy.

brianconwy · Apr 6, 2019

I had my heel bar for nothing as a mechanic had left it stuck in the engine bay around seven years earlier. Snap on as well. There must have been something wrong with that injector as mine needed only a little force to remove.

Scarecrow3 · Apr 12, 2019

Well the new loom has arrived and is in ... and it’s exactly the same! Same problem and the same fault logged, so obviously not a fault in the loom. At least I have a spare now!

Odd thing is the Nanocom immediately comes up with the fault as Logged when I start the car up after clearing codes - it never shows it as Current.

Injector balance is still way off on number 2 so looks like that’s the next thing to investigate...

sierrafery · Apr 12, 2019

So are you saying that you went all over the procedure to change the loom but didnt take the effort to change the injector washers and seals too and swap the injectors while you were already there ?

Scarecrow3 · Apr 12, 2019

I don’t have the LR spanner that will fit to remove the fan, so I can’t currently turn the crank over to rotate the injector cams. I decided it was worth trying the loom before I started buying or making special tools, even if I can get away without the slide hammer.

Disco 2 Injector fault code

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