In which order should I proceed for the repairs ??

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niquedouille

niquedouille

Member
Posts
17
Hello everyone,

I recently bought a freelander from 2005, and I have a VCU problem.
No noises whatsoever, except a little squeaking from rear wheels when I turn fully left (easier to hear for the drivers.. left sided steering wheel). Reverse, the rear is going up a little bit (not really noticeable, though).

I found out after paying (my mistake... I should have been more attentive when inspecting the vehicule !!) that front tyres are differents. It has been swapped with the spare wheel for I don't know how long. Anyway, tyres are differents.

I have then, to :
- change tyres (4 of them for a fresh start)
- change/repair the VCU + 2 supports bearing
- be sure the IRD is fine, so I don't spend 1500€ for nothing.. how do I do that ?

What's your opinion about the right order to do things ?
I suppose the VCU could be fine but engages all the time because of the tyres being different in the front ? (also different brand/wear on the rear).
Should I change tyres first ?
What are the chances for the IRD to be dead ?

Thank you for reading,
Jean-Baptiste
 
Last edited:
1st job is do a one wheel up test (plenty of info on here).

If the VCU is duff you can take the prop off and then it doesn't matter what tyres you have on the car and you can drive it with them as much as you want.

If the VCU is good, you can either take the prop off until you get new tyres, or get new tyres immediately, being sure to drive an absolute minimum until you do (i.e. to your nearest tyre place).

2nd job is change the IRD oil and see what condition it's in. Again there is loads of info on here about it. Ensure to undo the IRD filler plug before undoing the drain plug. Look for metal in the fluid.
 
Hello and thank you very much for your quick replies !
I've read about the one wheel up test and will do it tomorrow first thing. Although I've also read that if it's stiff it's not significant as the cause may be from different sources.

I'll investigate on the forum how to take off the prop OFF properly for now and I will do it before anything else. Then I'll be able to drive with it safely, test and recondition the VCU and then I'll check the IRD oil.
 
As all have said above.

And worth repeating to do the 1 wheel up test first as you need the props on to do this!

Remove it if its to stiff, post your timings on here if you need advice. Actually, you could post them on here...

landyzone.co.uk

VCU Torque test results

In the FAQs section there is a VCU torque test, which you can (should) carry out on a regular basis, so you get warning of an impending seizing VCU. This is designed to reduce the chances of screwing up your transmission and having to replace your IRD. The main problem with this test, at the...
landyzone.co.uk landyzone.co.uk

If you need to remove the props & diff, obviously the more room under the car you have the better, but I also find it easier if you can push the car a bit to turn the axle so that the top bolts, which are harder to get at, are then at the bottom ;)

Be careful as well, the VCU, and props, is heavy. Try and lower it on a jack rather than it falling on your bonce. We'd quite like you to be alive and let us know how you get on.

Depending on local regulations & insurance, eg modified vehicles, its quite OK to drive the Freelander with the props removed.
 
They is the one wheel off test.
I didn't know which lenghtof lever and which force to apply, so i made mark at 1.20 m and applied a force by hand thatis a bit less than 17kg (in comparison with 17kg water bottle test I also used, but I struggles to get it on cam. It was turning a bit faster with the 17kg bottle).

Beware that i used forward cam on my smartphone to make the video so it should mirrored (dont know how to do that on YouTube). Moving part is the rear.



First clap is beginning of test
Next ''clang''is the end.

I did the test twice.
 
Outside of the forums, it appears common that the UJs are replaced. On LZ, after discussing problems, the UJs are very rarely changed.

The damper, or front diff mount, is often changed. The 2 rear ones are usually fine. They must take a bit of a pounding, and especially with a VCU that is overly stiff.

You don't need to look at the VCU to do the 1 wheel up test...

 
1.20m extension.

5kg : 80 sec
8kg : 35 sec

I have no Idea how to interprete these results except that they seem 2 times longer than the measures from the guy in the video. Is it so bad ?
 
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I've been searching for "mondo mode" conversion to remove the rear shaft (temporarily in my case, as I'd like it back to have a proper 4x4) but couldn't find precise information. Maybe my lack of english makes the find more difficult. All I read is "it's super easy, takes about 30 minutes, just take if off..".

I don't want to make any mistake, and I won't get the Haynes manual before a couple of days. I took photos of the front and rear "attachments points" :

frontpart.jpg

here is the front part. I think I should take bolds of like option 1 and leave the other part on the IRD. Should I cover the hole with a plate, then ? Don't know what it's like inside.

rearpart.jpg

And here is the rear. Seems fairly easy to know what bold to take off here.. and it seems no plate is needed.


And while I'm here with photos.. here is one of the IRD :
IRD.jpg

Svernowsvenski wrote : "Ensure to undo the IRD filler plug before undoing the drain plug. Look for metal in the fluid."
Filler plug is in red here, right ?
drain plug in green.

Sorry if my questions seems dumbs.. I have quite a lot of experience on motorcycles, but a complete noob regarding cars. I'd like to learn with my freelander, though.
 
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niquedouille said:
I've been searching for "mondo mode" conversion to remove the rear shaft (temporarily in my case, as I'd like it back to have a proper 4x4) but couldn't find precise information. Maybe my lack of english makes the find more difficult. All I read is "it's super easy, takes about 30 minutes, just take if off..".

I don't want to make any mistake, and I won't get the Haynes manual before a couple of days. I took photos of the front and rear "attachments points" :

View attachment 344599
here is the front part. I think I should take bolds of like option 1 and leave the other part on the IRD. Should I cover the hole with a plate, then ? Don't know what it's like inside.

View attachment 344604
And here is the rear. Seems fairly easy to know what bold to take off here.. and it seems no plate is needed.


And while I'm here with photos.. here is one of the IRD :
View attachment 344605
Svernowsvenski wrote : "Ensure to undo the IRD filler plug before undoing the drain plug. Look for metal in the fluid."
Filler plug is in red here, right ?
drain plug in green.

Sorry if my questions seems dumbs.. I have quite a lot of experience on motorcycles, but a complete noob regarding cars. I'd like to learn with my freelander, though.
Click to expand...
Yes, you remove the option 1 bolts. There is no need for a plate.

People only remove the option 2 bolts when the IRD is badly broken and a plate is bolted on to cover the hole - the car will basically be converted to 2WD permanently. This would be done seperately and after removing the props anyway.

The bolts at the back are correct.

I'd recommend driving the car up onto blocks (on 1 side) to give a bit more access.
Removing the lower bolts at front and back.
Push the car forward (maybe more blocks needed) so that top bolts are then at the bottom (1/2 a prop turn is about 1/6 of a wheel turn and having a 2m diameter - that's about 340mm you need to push it).
Remove the remaining front bolts and lower that end of the prop - taking care not to over extend it - support if if need be.
Do the same with the rear bolts.
Support the VCU with a jack.
Remove the VCU support bearing bolts.
Lower VCU - carefully, it may want to roll off the jack as the prop ends may not want to move.
Make sure complete assembly is laying flat on the ground under the car.
Drive car off blocks and forward so that you can then move the props.

Its a while since I did it, but I think that's reasonable way of doing it. Others may think otherwise.
 
niquedouille said:
I've been searching for "mondo mode" conversion to remove the rear shaft (temporarily in my case, as I'd like it back to have a proper 4x4) but couldn't find precise information. Maybe my lack of english makes the find more difficult. All I read is "it's super easy, takes about 30 minutes, just take if off..".

I don't want to make any mistake, and I won't get the Haynes manual before a couple of days. I took photos of the front and rear "attachments points" :

View attachment 344599
here is the front part. I think I should take bolds of like option 1 and leave the other part on the IRD. Should I cover the hole with a plate, then ? Don't know what it's like inside.

View attachment 344604
And here is the rear. Seems fairly easy to know what bold to take off here.. and it seems no plate is needed.


And while I'm here with photos.. here is one of the IRD :
View attachment 344605
Svernowsvenski wrote : "Ensure to undo the IRD filler plug before undoing the drain plug. Look for metal in the fluid."
Filler plug is in red here, right ?
drain plug in green.

Sorry if my questions seems dumbs.. I have quite a lot of experience on motorcycles, but a complete noob regarding cars. I'd like to learn with my freelander, though.
Click to expand...
TBH, I think someone has been doing stuff with that prop as the plates under the Option 1 bolt heads - the ones each joining 2 bolts should be bare metal - they look to have been spray painted while the bolts are installed, so on the car.

Your Fill and Drain ID is correct. Not sure if it was said why - the fill bolt is made of a very soft material and will 'round' if not removed carefully (ie use a good fitting 6 sided socket). The last thing you want is to remove all the oil, then not be able to fill it! The car will be immobile to get it somewhere to fix.
 
Thank you very much for the answer, Grumpy.

The photo might misleading, the plates are bare metal but with a light dark coat of Grease and dust.
 
niquedouille said:
1.20m extension.

5kg : 80 sec
8kg : 35 sec

I have no Idea how to interprete these results except that they seem 2 times longer than the measures from the guy in the video. Is it so bad ?
Click to expand...
Those numbers don't sound too terrible. I'd be OK with driving it for a while but the front Diff mount sounds like it needs replacing

You will learn how heavy the VCU and propshaft are when it lands on your chest. :oops:
Otherwise it's an easy job. The torx bolts can be held with a 1/4" hex socket while you loosen the nuts. IIRC 8mm for the small ones and 10mm for the larger. I've removed and installed 5 or 6 propshafts and never used a torx socket.
It is much easier if all four wheels are off the ground as you can easily turn the propshaft by hand to reach all the bolts.
 
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