I'm Doing It...

Hello

This is a bit of a long haul but with thanks to CharlesY for walking me through the process and the advantages of optimising my 2.5 N/A fuel pump timing, I would just like to be absolutely certain that I am doing the right thing.

Here is a picture of my fuel pump:
http://www.skuf.co.uk/temp/pump.jpg

I would appreciate it if you could walkthrough what exactly I should be doing at each numbered component, and add instructions where I have missed something:

1. ...
2. ...
3. ...
4. ...
5. ...
6. ...
7. ...
8. ...
9. ...
10. ...

Many, many thanks for anyone who can be bothered confirming everything! I will go ahead with what CharlesY has said none the less, but I want to be certain that I get it right, and don't risk damagaing anything.

Cheers
-Pos

I have filled in your post ...

pos said:

Hello

This is a bit of a long haul but with thanks to CharlesY for walking me through the process and the advantages of optimising my 2.5 N/A fuel pump timing, I would just like to be absolutely certain that I am doing the right thing.

Here is a picture of my fuel pump:
http://www.skuf.co.uk/temp/pump.jpg

I would appreciate it if you could walkthrough what exactly I should be doing at each numbered component, and add instructions where I have missed something:

1. ... Mark pump flange and casing close to point 6
2. ... Slacken nut and bolt 9
3. ... slacken FOUR injector pipe nuts 1 & 2 and the other two.
4. ... slacken nut 6 and the other two, but no more than a little.
5. ... NUdge the top of the pump using nut 7, AWAY from the engine
6. Move it only about 2mm on your marks.
7. ... Now tighten the whole lot back up, and try her out.
8. ... repeat as necessary.
9. ... DO NOT loosen 3 4 5 7 8 or 10.

Many, many thanks for anyone who can be bothered confirming everything! I will go ahead with what CharlesY has said none the less, but I want to be certain that I get it right, and don't risk damagaing anything.

Cheers
-Pos

Click to expand...

Thanks CharlseY I will get onto it in the morning after me cycle
You're being great help!!!

-Pos

Tried mine yesterday, have got it running quieter in so much as most of the clatter has gone, still gutless though.....

Main concern is that at speed the temp is in the red, just pottering no probs, BUT rad is hot at the top, cold at the bottom which should be normal, so all seems OK there, she is not boiling up. What I would like is a piccy of someones 2.5 Sherpa engine taken from the top showing heater hoses and location of temp sender, my sender is in the head near No3 cylinder, and heathose is by the thermostat, I have a feeling this is wrong.

Grrrr.
I just lost a whole lot of a reply in the silly-arse way this place works. Using Alt+ for symbols stuffs it on the spot as does using the tab key for formatting.

Anyway, your sender where it is in the head is FINE as long as it is always immersed in coolant. It must be and is, before the thermostat.

Because the temperature varies with load, your cooling system isn't self-regulating as it should be.

Ergo ....

either

1. your thermostat is jiggered, probably stuck a bit open. Take it out and have a look, cold. Question - is the disk fully closed on its seat all round? If NO, bin it and fit a new one. A 92 degree stat is good. Hot engines run better, and the heater will be good! In summertime some people fit cooler ones. So, if the disk is closed, wait till she is out on retail therapy, and then slap the thermostat in a saucepan, cover it with water, and put on the cooker full heat. Just before the water boils the stat disk should move to wide open and stay there.

Pour out the boiling water. As the stat cools down (you can pour in cold water to speed things up) the disk should close all the way shut.

If it fails any of this buy a new one.

2. The water is not circualting properly - gunged block and / or radiator, and the inside and outside of the rad need to be well cleaned..

or

3. the water pump impeller is corroded almost away, but this is very unusual.

Check the thermostat first.

CharlesY

my sender is in the head near No3 cylinder, and heathose is by the thermostat, I have a feeling this is wrong

Both of these are fine, perfect even.

Remember, LandRover drilled and tapped the holes for the sender deliberately there!

The heater hose is there so the water is blasted around the heater BEFORE the thermostat opens and sends all that good heat to the radiator. You want that good heat in the cab. After all, you paid for it.

CharlesY

There is no thermostat in the thing........

New Rad.....

Water pump, looks new.....

Could there be an air lock by the sender unit????? If so, how could it be removed?

Another thing, temp gauge was fine, esp when I was having probs with a bad earth on the engine, now all well, temp has gone up to red, faulty gauge?

AHA!

FIT A THERMOSTAT !!!!!

Make sure it's the right one.

Without a working thermostat of the proper kind, the engine will never get up to temperature, and you WILL lose power, have poor fuel consumption and do damage in the long run because water vapour in the sump will not evaporate out into the breather system.

What happens is that far too much of the coolant goes whizzing into the radiator as soon as you start the engine, instead of taking the by-pass short cut round the pump back to the engine without passing into the radiator. Once the engine is up to temperature the thermostat starts to open a little and SOME hot water goes to the rad, while lots still goes the by-pass. Thus, by opening and closing a little, the thermostat keeps the coolant at the set temperature, often 82 degrees C for LandRovers.

Use a 88 degrees stat or even a 92C unless you are heading for the Sahara desert.

Air locks in the head are nigh impossible when the system is filled, and that is NOT your problem. Don't even thjink about this again.

Buy and fit a proper design of thermostat suitable for THAT model.

CharlesY

Charles...

Why does it show the temp in the red 'without' a thermostat???

You've replaced your engine with a noo one - did you change the temperature sender for the one in your old engine or are you now using your original temp gauge with a sender that doesn't match it?

Good point Adz, not sure....

Will swap this sender with the original sender that was matching the gauge and see how it goes, could be a simple answer I hope.

Cheers

GGGrrrr..................... yet another one!!!!

GUYS and GALS !!!!

YOU MUST KEEP THE SENDER THAT BELONGS TO THE CAR!!!

Sorry for shouting but ............... Oh Slob, how did I get involved?


Sob ..... Sob ......

CharlesY

what else do you expect from a mate of donk??