fett
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Ignition
- Thread starter fett
- Start date
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jamesmartin
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still if i get any problems ill no where to go
fett
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what are you implying 
fett
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me too
tomcat59alan
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you will be changing the 6v coil for the 12v one so how will it cook?no wonder your beat james
Don't worry Fett, I've yet to meet anyone who really understands coils, or at least can explain to the average joe what is important and what is not (including me).
However, a couple of points. The 16C6 coil was the standard coil fitted to a 'points' RRC and it is a 6V coil. When we talk about a 6 or 9 or 12volt coil we are not talking about the output, we are talking about the input voltage. So, because you have the original loom, the ignition source of 12volts travels along the White/Pink wire and by the time it reaches the coil, it has been knocked down to 6volts. This is because the white/pink wire is effectively a ballast resistor. If you are thinking of buyng a 12V coil, make sure it has an internal resistance of at least 3ohms, however, I have got the correct Luminition coil for a Magnatronic (as opposed to Optronic) if you want to try that.
However, a couple of points. The 16C6 coil was the standard coil fitted to a 'points' RRC and it is a 6V coil. When we talk about a 6 or 9 or 12volt coil we are not talking about the output, we are talking about the input voltage. So, because you have the original loom, the ignition source of 12volts travels along the White/Pink wire and by the time it reaches the coil, it has been knocked down to 6volts. This is because the white/pink wire is effectively a ballast resistor. If you are thinking of buyng a 12V coil, make sure it has an internal resistance of at least 3ohms, however, I have got the correct Luminition coil for a Magnatronic (as opposed to Optronic) if you want to try that.
fett
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we were talking about before that swap if you read it right.
fett
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Thanks , the 12v one I have is from a 3.9 efi , I dont know what they are supposed to be?
I may take you up on that if stu comes and we cant get it sorted!
tomcat59alan
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sorry fett, just reread post,its a saga isnt it,hope you get it sorted. regards
fett
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no worries buddy
Hi Fett,
Don't use a coil from a 3.9 as it is probably not suitable (low Ohms) and you may fry the Luminition. As it happens, because I am sad and have no life, I have been mulling over your problem and have come to the conclusion that the coil is a 'red herring' anyway.
You don't have a running problem, you have a starting problem. The coil on the car at the moment is correct for the ballast wire supply feeding it when you are running and the Luminition is happy with it.
So forget about the coil.......its fine for the moment.
Let's keep it simple and focus on the real problem.....providing juice when cranking. This is the only problem.
Cheers
Chris
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fett
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I agree , I took the old purple and white wire that was not connected and connected it with the power in wire from the igntion to the solenoid and the solenoid itself and it did just the same as when I ran my own wire from the solenoid to coil. starts instantly but dies after a second as the solenoid if sucking all the power out of the coil when the key is released. so its more than just connecting a wire stu will have to do.
jamesmartin
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which connection are you using for feed to coil from solenoid as ingnition side of solenoid is only live while key is in cranking position
fett
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it could be that then , it all covered in exhaust heat wrap so is fookin hard to see if you dont know what your trying to find first!
That sounds like the ideal soloution though. its a much later starter motor if that makes any differnce, so really that should be the home for that little white and purple wire then
I doubt there is much chance of me finding the connection though :doh:
That sounds like the ideal soloution though. its a much later starter motor if that makes any differnce, so really that should be the home for that little white and purple wire then
I doubt there is much chance of me finding the connection though :doh:
He is using the original White/Purple wire. When he stops cranking 'cos the engine fires, the feed then comes via the White/Pink wire. However with this setup (which is the original set up) it seems like the solenoid is drawing the power away from the coil causing the engine to die.
fett
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I know its been a while guys, a fair bit has happened.
Ok , so Stu came back and wired in the efi 12v coil with a live direct from the ign using part of the old loom and part new. the car started on the button and ran pretty well-untill it got up to temp about 5-10 mins later. it then died and would only re start and run for a few sec and die again.
Bugger!
we did think that the ohms ov the 12v efi coil were all wrong for the lumention system and the coil was v hot for such a short run.
so Stu was too busy to sort it atm so I bought a new lumention coil with ballast resistor which I wired in correctly- go me! and used his 12v ign feed to the ballest and then on to the coil at suppsed 6v and it started on the button and ran for 5-10 then died
Bugger!
coil not too hot and module not too hot outside andthe ballest was hot but thats the point of it right?
I noticed with ign on there was only 6.7v to the ballast and 3.2v to the coil. I thought maybe either the old wire stu used was buggered or ballested so I ran a new wire from his new ignition wire all the way to the ballest and tried again and with it running I had 5v ish at the coil which I hope it ok for a 6v coil?
it started on the button and ran for 5-10 then died
Bugger
coil not too hot and module not too hot outside andthe ballest was not as hot but I hadnt run it as long
I left it about 30 mins then re started it and ran it at 2k revs no choke and after about 5 mins it back fired a lot and I shut it off before it died
Bugger.
I have just ordered a new module to replace the old one, my theory being that the 12v due either to the volts or the ohms or both has killed the old module which was used when I got it but was running great before we messed about with all this.
Any thoughts guys? am I on the right track? arrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!! :doh:
it worked before all this , should have just kept jumping it with that length of wire :doh:
Ok , so Stu came back and wired in the efi 12v coil with a live direct from the ign using part of the old loom and part new. the car started on the button and ran pretty well-untill it got up to temp about 5-10 mins later. it then died and would only re start and run for a few sec and die again.
Bugger!
we did think that the ohms ov the 12v efi coil were all wrong for the lumention system and the coil was v hot for such a short run.
so Stu was too busy to sort it atm so I bought a new lumention coil with ballast resistor which I wired in correctly- go me! and used his 12v ign feed to the ballest and then on to the coil at suppsed 6v and it started on the button and ran for 5-10 then died
Bugger!
coil not too hot and module not too hot outside andthe ballest was hot but thats the point of it right?
I noticed with ign on there was only 6.7v to the ballast and 3.2v to the coil. I thought maybe either the old wire stu used was buggered or ballested so I ran a new wire from his new ignition wire all the way to the ballest and tried again and with it running I had 5v ish at the coil which I hope it ok for a 6v coil?
it started on the button and ran for 5-10 then died
Bugger
coil not too hot and module not too hot outside andthe ballest was not as hot but I hadnt run it as long
I left it about 30 mins then re started it and ran it at 2k revs no choke and after about 5 mins it back fired a lot and I shut it off before it died
Bugger.
I have just ordered a new module to replace the old one, my theory being that the 12v due either to the volts or the ohms or both has killed the old module which was used when I got it but was running great before we messed about with all this.
Any thoughts guys? am I on the right track? arrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!! :doh:
it worked before all this , should have just kept jumping it with that length of wire :doh:
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fett
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I belive I have the answer after wading through lots of lumention PDF bullitins:
There is a possibility that the optical switch is failing. If it is there will be a very definite pattern to the
intermittency which will be as follows:
· The ignition system works perfectly when the engine is cold but misfires or stalls as the
optical switch is heated by the rising engine temperature. If the engine is stopped and left to
cool for a few minutes (also cooling the optical switch) the engine will start and run perfectly
but fail again a few minutes later when the distributor re-heats the optical switch – and so on.
No repairs can be made to Optical Switches and replacement will be necessary. If the optical switch
is currently connected to a Mk16 power module (or an earlier version - see above for identification) a
replacement optical switch is not available and a complete replacement Optronic system will be
required.
There is a possibility that the optical switch is failing. If it is there will be a very definite pattern to the
intermittency which will be as follows:
· The ignition system works perfectly when the engine is cold but misfires or stalls as the
optical switch is heated by the rising engine temperature. If the engine is stopped and left to
cool for a few minutes (also cooling the optical switch) the engine will start and run perfectly
but fail again a few minutes later when the distributor re-heats the optical switch – and so on.
No repairs can be made to Optical Switches and replacement will be necessary. If the optical switch
is currently connected to a Mk16 power module (or an earlier version - see above for identification) a
replacement optical switch is not available and a complete replacement Optronic system will be
required.
