P38A Ignition key error, is this a DIY fix or do I need a garage?

P38 - 1999 Diesel HSE - I get the Key in Ignition error, where I don't have a key in the ignition, and the central locking isn't working.
I want to get this working like new but can't work out what is involved.
What I need is to find out is all the different areas that are affected, like a flow chart maybe?
Ideally, I would like to remove the ignition barrel, and replace it with a new one and two new keys.
My assumption is this would mean the key fob would need to be reprogramed - which already sounds expensive, and a reason to go to a garage.
Anyone able to run through the whole process and what can be done at home, and what needs someone with diagnostic equipment?

Thanks

There's a switch in the barrel.
Jiggle the steering wheel as you take the key out, you can often feel the key shroud move outwards as the switch disengages I think.

Keys can only come from JLR you can not get them reprogrammed and come programmed to vin number
the ignition switch wants some electrical contact cleaner spayed in and the key jiggled about then left to dry and the a little bit of graphite powder in the look
your key may want resyncing and the drivers door lock can give problems

Maybe the mechanism needs a bit of suitable lubrication, or a clean?
If you replace the barrel, you will need a new key blade, the fob won't change

Your ignition is sticky all it probably is. I clean my key off and scribble on it with a pencil now and again.

+1 all of the above

Yep. Contact cleaner down the hole then a wee puff of graphite powder.

As above, but the best to use if brake parts cleaner. DO NOT use any form of wet lubricant (like WD40), graphite only. If the car thinks the key is still in the ignition, then it won’t allow the fob to lock the doors, so that may be your only problem. Sort out the barrel with a bit of cleaner, then re-program the fob to the car. Hopefully that is all that is needed, if so, the whole job will take 3 minutes.

+1 to the above. The same happened to my P38, took minutes to fix.

brianp38dse said:

Keys can only come from JLR you can not get them reprogrammed and come programmed to vin number
the ignition switch wants some electrical contact cleaner spayed in and the key jiggled about then left to dry and the a little bit of graphite powder in the look
your key may want resyncing and the drivers door lock can give problems

Click to expand...

As brian says contact clean in barrel, key in and out a few times them bit of graphite powder when it's dried out. Did this on mine sorted no problem. Easy fix

Thanks for all your replies, but unfortunatley, this hasn't worked for me.
I removed the key barrel and soaked it in contact cleaner for a few hours to see if that would work.
After a good wiggle, I replaced it, but it still shows the message.
Not sure what the next step would be - any advice?

It's it actually popping out when you remove the key?

OK, its nice and clean now.
Have you put any graphite powder in there?
It only needs a small amount not filling up with powder.
What should happen when you take the key out is that the external shroud (the shiny round bit with the key-slot in it) assembly should "pop" back out a little bit under spring pressure and trip the switch.
The only other thing I can think of is to cut the wire that says "key in" on the switch.

From A.N. Other web-site.....

The ignition barrel has a switch in it that detects the key, it is not uncommon for this switch to stick in the down position and indicate the key is in when in fact it isn't.

A bit of WD40 or even better graphite oil squirted down the key hole and then working the key in and out a few times often sorts the problem.

If you look at the barrel as you insert the key you should see it go in a mm or so as the key is inserted and then come back out as the key is removed, when mine was stuck a bit of WD40 and then dragging the key on the side a bit when it was part way out got it moving and then just working it a few times till it frees up easily.

Graphite oil is normally prefered as it leaves a graphite residue behind that lasts longer than the WD40 which eventually evaporates but in the short term it doesn't make to much difference.

Clean then graphite is as good as it gets. Pencils are graphite not lead, if you file one down you can collect the powder.
If it’s totally goosed it’s replacement so worth working with what you’ve got for time being.

It worked! The trick for me was to realise that there was a slight key flap, which, in my case, was totally stuck, so I didn't even realise it was there..
I squirted some graphine power in there, followed by lots of cheap maintenance fluid. Finally, I used an adapted paperclip so I could ensure the cleaning products could get to the back of the flap.

5 minutes of wiggling, and eventually, the warning was no longer on the dash.

Wanted to give feedback to ensure this thread is helpful to others - nothing worse than advice with no feedback on how good it was.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
Next job is to strengthen the spring in the door handle

Yamawg said:

It worked! The trick for me was to realise that there was a slight key flap, which, in my case, was totally stuck, so I didn't even realise it was there..
I squirted some graphine power in there, followed by lots of cheap maintenance fluid. Finally, I used an adapted paperclip so I could ensure the cleaning products could get to the back of the flap.

5 minutes of wiggling, and eventually, the warning was no longer on the dash.

Wanted to give feedback to ensure this thread is helpful to others - nothing worse than advice with no feedback on how good it was.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
Next job is to strengthen the spring in the door handle

Click to expand...

Well done Always a great feeling when a plan comes together

Congrats!
feels good doesn't it (when you beat the beggar).

Yamawg said:

It worked! The trick for me was to realise that there was a slight key flap, which, in my case, was totally stuck, so I didn't even realise it was there..
I squirted some graphine power in there, followed by lots of cheap maintenance fluid. Finally, I used an adapted paperclip so I could ensure the cleaning products could get to the back of the flap.

5 minutes of wiggling, and eventually, the warning was no longer on the dash.

Wanted to give feedback to ensure this thread is helpful to others - nothing worse than advice with no feedback on how good it was.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
Next job is to strengthen the spring in the door handle

Click to expand...

Well done.

@Yamawg if its the problem of the handle not going all the way in when released so it sits out about 5mm this is the kit you need
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27404330...001&customid=90cb923197a5b010e87ece31af2ff5b4

And I was thinking they were all made to stick out that little bit Brian