Iffy Handbrake?

Hi guys,
I'm sorry if this is repeated. I've had a look round and can't seem to find anyone with the same problem, I have a freelander TD4 2001 and i just wondered... its tricky to explain but when I take off the handbrake its goes all the way down (handbrake light goes off) brake released then as i take my hand off it will just slightly raise up a little so handbrake light comes on again. It takes a good couple of goes to keep the handbrake down enough for light to go off. Its not applying the brake just the light gets annoying. Can I adjust something or something or is it a sign that the cables on its way out? I'm new to the world of FL so sorry if I sound retarded and any information is appreciated thanks.

sounds ike cable needs adjusting ,but could also be a sign they need replacing

Any clues on how to adjust it?

i believe theres a nut under cubby box at the back of lever

Do you park it behind a girl Freelander by any chance?
Just wondering...

Thanks i'll have a look!

Hahaha!!

:behindsofa:
I had a similar problem after I adjusted the handbrake.
However, when I came to replace the rear brake shoes, I found that the levers (Both sides) where the cable hooks into on the rear brake assembly was very stiff-this seems to be a common problem. Gave the rivet on which the lever pivots a good clout with a hammer and this released it making it easier to move. I then applied copper grease to the joint and it's worked perfectly since. There is quite a hefty return spring on the brake end and this is more than capable of returning the cable. The cable itself is plastic coated but a smear of copper grease on the exposed sections will do no harm.
Rave advises to jack the rear of the car up, apply the handbrake to the FIRST notch then turn the adjuster nut (12mm socket-preferably a deep one), which is accesible after removing the rear cubby panel cover, until the rear brakes are just rubbing. This should give full handbrake actuation when the handbrake is pulled up around 5 notches.

Thanks mate!! I can have a educated crack at it tomorrow! Cheers!

hi just to say i had the same problem as mentioned and thought as mentioned the cables and drums, but after much head scratching and swearing found problem to be the plastic sliding dust cover beneath the handbrake handle,for some reason it had distoted and the lever didn't drop off fully meaning handbrake light stayed on.just a thought might be worth checking before stripping the brakes out.tim.

the proper way to adjust the handbreak is to adjust the shoes , on the back of the drum you will find a rubber gromet take it out and you will see a toothed wheel this is the adjuster a few clicks would do the job , but make sure the wheel still turns and is nt stuck on , if this is the case you will need to back it of a bit , But to be honest i would take a good look at the cables to see if they are seezing at the drum end and to see if you need to replace them, well if you do be care full of the gravity switch next to the handbreak it self if you knock the wires of you will get the 3 amigos.

teddywood1 said:

the proper way to adjust the handbreak is to adjust the shoes , on the back of the drum you will find a rubber gromet take it out and you will see a toothed wheel this is the adjuster a few clicks would do the job , but make sure the wheel still turns and is nt stuck on , if this is the case you will need to back it of a bit , But to be honest i would take a good look at the cables to see if they are seezing at the drum end and to see if you need to replace them, well if you do be care full of the gravity switch next to the handbreak it self if you knock the wires of you will get the 3 amigos.

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Not according to Rave or Haynes. What you are describing is how you free off the shoes when removing the drums. You adjust the handbrake using the adjuster behind the handbrake lever. Put the car in gear, chock the front wheels then raise the rear and support on axle stands. Lift the leaver one click and turn the nut clockwise until the brake shoes are just rubbing. Release the lever and check that the wheels are free. Lifting the lever four or five notches should now lock the rear wheels

The cables are shot! New ones on there way! Thanks for all the help guys helped me millions!! Cheers

Whats the 3 amigos?

Richard Martin said:

Not according to Rave or Haynes. What you are describing is how you free off the shoes when removing the drums. You adjust the handbrake using the adjuster behind the handbrake lever. Put the car in gear, chock the front wheels then raise the rear and support on axle stands. Lift the leaver one click and turn the nut clockwise until the brake shoes are just rubbing. Release the lever and check that the wheels are free. Lifting the lever four or five notches should now lock the rear wheels

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the adjust on the cables is there for only taking up the slack in the cable thats what i was tought when i was a lad if you go and take up the cables until you handbreak is on five notches then your shoes will be draging all of the time

timfreecom said:

hi just to say i had the same problem as mentioned and thought as mentioned the cables and drums, but after much head scratching and swearing found problem to be the plastic sliding dust cover beneath the handbrake handle,for some reason it had distoted and the lever didn't drop off fully meaning handbrake light stayed on.just a thought might be worth checking before stripping the brakes out.tim.

Click to expand...

check that the shoes and drums are still within tolerance. In my experience if they are fecked its impossible to get correct adjustment.

teddywood1 said:

the adjust on the cables is there for only taking up the slack in the cable thats what i was tought when i was a lad if you go and take up the cables until you handbreak is on five notches then your shoes will be draging all of the time

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The Freelander has automatic adjusters on the drum. After working on the rear brakes they may need resetting. After reassembling everything press the brake pedal 30 times to set the adjustment, then adjust the handbrake as I described earlier. As you say, this adjustment will be largely taking up slack. Do not "take up the cables until you handbrake is on five notches", that is not what I said. Set the handbrake on one notch and adjust the cable until the drums just rub. Release the handbrake and check the drums are free, at this point five notches will fully apply the handbrake.
As I said before, at no time do you need to manually set the adjusters in the drums. If you do then either your handbrake cables are knackered, your adjusters are knackered or something else is wrong. In which case, strip all down, fix it, reassemble and adjust properly.

my auto adjuster never worked on my old one and neither do they work on the wifes as soon as they get a bit of crud on them that's it but every one to there own