icarsoft i930

Alibro said:

Welcome to Landy ownership.

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Mate, I've had Land Rovers for 10+ years.... Never found a Landy owner who hasn't gritted their teeth when talking about reliability.

Why no cruise control and 4x4?

When the three warning lights are on the dash display ( as above) the 4x4 function, abs and cruise control are 'deactivated' because the Haldex, Wheel sensor and Wheel hub sensor are all interconnected. If I have just the abs warning light it's not a problem, but with those two warning lights and the triangle light on nothing works.

Error code U3003 seems to be the 'money pit' as it could be a multitude of things.

What are the fault codes in all the modules in the car especially ABS, rear diff and transmission

There are no error codes on my icarsoft relating to the rear diff or transmission. At the moment the only error code coming up is U3003 but that may change today as I give it another test run - I'll make a note of any code references.

New battery installed now but still get the same error...

If I could afford it I would happily set fire to this overated bundle of electronic shyte.

Harold, just wondering: what error codes might you be expecting to see? The only codes that might be generated would relate to TC/ABS/HDC function? But I'd imagine that a mechanical fault would necessarily result in an error code being logged by these systems?

Frankly I'm not sure what I expect to see anymore as with three different fault codes (depending on the wind direction) I am none the wiser as to the cause. However, as my previous posts suggest I am inclined to beleive it is a dodgy wheel hub sensor ring.

Today I have the same scenario: start up and all three lights are on; drive 100meters then stop engine/restart and just the ABS light is on; drive around for 30 mins and all seems well then the three lights are back on...

Rinse and repeat.

I made a mistake with an earlier post as the fault doesn't in fact mess with the cruise control, I thought it did, but no.

After a new additional earth lead, new battery, new wheel sensor..... no change. This weekend I'll be re-checking the Haldex connection, abs sensor plug connection, alternator/belt/tensioner.

Not a happy bunny.

If you are getting any of the ABS/TC related warning lights lit - then there must be an error code for them - plug the i930 in while those lights are lit and see what codes you get. If its just that U3003 then I'm pretty sure you are wasting your time chasing sensors and rings - its a 'generic' electrical problem.

... and probably a job for an auto electrician.

Harold 4x4 said:

If I could afford it I would happily set fire to this overated bundle of electronic shyte.

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There are many that think all the electronic wizardry on modern cars is a great help in identifying and fixing problems quickly. I can see that train of thought, but I think its gone way to far and the electronics have created many more problems that us Muggles can't understand to fix. This being a fine example.

If its comfort, reliability and economy you want - then stop those codes coming up, sell it and buy a Toyota Corolla or, for ultimate reliability and 4WD capability, an L Series Freelander 1. I've been super happy with my L Series over the last 6 years. (conveniently forgetting 1 of those 72 months!)

Modern sophisticated cars, of any make, run the risk of complex problems and big repair bills.

Admittedly, the rear diff problem you had is a known problem area on F2. I would think all cars up to 2010 have had them replaced by now - some multiple times. I'm not sure it has ever really been fixed either. If you shouted loud enough LR would part or fully pay for the repair even if the car was well out of warranty - so they recognise its a problem and I think it should have been a recall. Other than that, they're probably no less reliable than a comparable car.

Which module is reporting U3003?

GrumpyGel said:

If its comfort, reliability and economy you want - then stop those codes coming up, sell it and buy a Toyota Corolla or, for ultimate reliability and 4WD capability, an L Series Freelander 1. I've been super happy with my L Series over the last 6 years. (conveniently forgetting 1 of those 72 months!)

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Ha, ha, ha... Mate, I've had two F1s. Wouldn't have another if someone gave one to me - worst Land Rover I've ever owned for working on. If I had a 'wish fulfillment' it would be a mint Discovery Tdi 300.

....and yes, you are quite right, I need an 'expert' in car electrics ti sort this out. Frankly, I'm not convinced such a person exists


Anyhoo, I've taken this way off topic, sorry.

The icarsoft is a very capable entry level diagnostic tool and good value for money!

td4van said:

Which module is reporting U3003?

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My abs is reporting U3003

As mentioned earlier, when I choose a manual diagnostic on the abs circuit I get a trio of error messages:

Battery voltage U3003, rear right wheel sensor C003A or rear right wheel hub sensor ring (didn't get a pic yet).

There's 3 types of U3003 fault code possible in ABS but the icarsoft isn't reporting the additional info for the DTC

They are low battery voltage, high battery voltage and mismatch in battery voltage between ABS and body controller

Again there are 2 choices for C003A dependant on electrical issue or mechanical issue. Ideally you need to use a more in depth diagnostic to find out the next level of detail for the DTCs

Can you do live data on the i930? If so look at battery voltage in ABS and body controller and for the wheel speed sensor output and see what is being feedback in the eyes of the control modules

td4van said:

Can you do live data on the i930? If so look at battery voltage in ABS and body controller and for the wheel speed sensor output and see what is being feedback in the eyes of the control modules

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Not to my knowledge, hence my earlier comments on icarsoft and it's limitations. I'm off to fettle around with my expensive-problematic-chunk-of-metallic-electrical-gremlins just now. Expect to be blubbing into a cup of tea in a few hours...

In fact the icarsoft did come up with 'low battery voltage' but I don't yet have a pic of that occassion.

As above, I have had 'low battery voltage' with the U3003 error, I'll get a pic when I can. The Frustrating thing is the trio of errors all come up on a manual abs diagnostic - nothing is consistant....and occasionally the car will drive as normal fora day. Completely stumped now so will have to get another mortgage for a trip to the main Stealer.

Hi, I think what you are actually seeing is the limitation of a scanner type tool as opposed to a diagnostic tool. The 930 is reasonable value as a dtc scan tool but does not have the depth of info required with problems such as yours.
It would be interesting to plug the Lynx unit into the vehicle - or indeed the Hawkeye. These have live data and far more in depth coverage of issues. The Lynx being the easiest to use to the best of my knowledge.
I am awaiting a Hawkeye unit which should be here soon. I already have the Lynx unit. I will do a quick comparison on the two units as I have an existing wheel sensor fault that I am aware of. With the better diagnostic tools you can look at each wheel sensor output in real time for example.
That is the difference between 90 quid and 250 / 270 quid really. (as well as actuator tests which are vital for some diagnostics)
It is a shame you could not find someone near you with the Lynx or Hawkeye. - however it would need to be F2 configured also

Yes, you are probably right re. Hawkeye or Lynx. I had thought about the Hawkeye before I purchased the icarsoft and obviously I wish I'd spent the extra....

Harold 4x4 said:

Yes, you are probably right re. Hawkeye or Lynx. I had thought about the Hawkeye before I purchased the icarsoft and obviously I wish I'd spent the extra....

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The best diagnostic tool available for the FL2 and all other late LRs is the Gap Diagnostics IID in bluetooth guise. It's not just a reader but a software updater and settings modification tool. There's almost nothing it can't do and if it doesn't. All that is needed is a quick email to Pat at Gap about the issue and he'll get onto it with a software update within hours.

Nodge68 said:

The best diagnostic tool available for the FL2 and all other late LRs is the Gap Diagnostics IID in bluetooth guise. It's not just a reader but a software updater and settings modification tool. There's almost nothing it can't do and if it doesn't. All that is needed is a quick email to Pat at Gap about the issue and he'll get onto it with a software update within hours.

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+1 Just bought one for my Disco 3. Its a terrific bit of kit.
I've had Hawkeye and Nanocm but this beats them hands down
Updates ECU's. reads and resets fault codes and much more.
The customer service is brilliant, had a query when registering mine and had a reply within 20mins.
My one gripe is its VIN locked but then again makes it less attractive to thieves.

@Harold 4x4
can yer start a new fred with yer problems as this one is very confusing