I would just like to say

Forrest Gump said:

Van der Valk wasn’t too bad I have to say. All the old stuffs the best.

Click to expand...

6pot said:

Not a bad idea, you could prob take the battery out of one car and connect in series with the other without removing it from the second car so as not to disable them both. Shouldn't be an issue for a small test like this, at least you might prove/disprove the relay operation.

I've got a battery charger which will do 24v but not much good to you down here...

To be honest if the relays are working you will probably get them to click over on 12v just for proving.

Click to expand...

kevstar said:

Been offered a land rover gypsy.....austin gypo chassis with a series 2 body, needs some welding I'll get some pics snot free
he wants something for it.

Click to expand...

6pot said:

Yes I've seen on various forums that avoiding Rouen north-south or vice versa is a PITA. Someone listed a detour route which sounded long winded and frankly, long. I thought get a sticker and drive right through as normal, its only €4.something to get it. Last time I did it I was driving a car which doesn't even qualify for a sticker of any rating but they didn't have the camera enforcement set up then. There are a few other places with a LEZ we might skirt but maybe have to go into, don't want to work that out on the hoof. And I read that if we go anywhere near BAB in the south it will be a no-no without a sticker although the minimum acceptable there is a '5' so very lenient.

Re. foreign cars in Spain, to be honest I got the sticker to go through Rouen, nothing else. The other is a nice little bonus I discovered! Its given me a crazy idea though - W wants to upgrade her car to a newer one and we thought we'd trade in the current one obvs. If its worth next to nothing for trade in we might keep it and I thought we'd import it into Portugal. Now, it's currently on a Spanish 'B' sticker which precludes a few places newly restricted here but if I decided I might drive it on PT plates to France and got a French sticker for it, which would be recognised in Spain, it would bump it up a category because according to the bumf it would be a '2'. How mad is that?!

Click to expand...

Turktowner said:

You is sposed to check compatibility apparently, great news if you're running on fumes and on the forecourt. Newer motors is generally ok i think, but i dont touch the stuff.

Click to expand...

Hippo said:

To get 24vdc buy yerself a small psu

RS PRO 24W Plug-In AC/DC Adapter 24V dc Output, 1A Output | RS

uk.rs-online.com

And an inline fuse so yer dun't blow yerself up.

To test a relay yer can measure the coil resistance while in circuit. Uvver components in parallel will alter the measured value burrits only an indication ovvit being open circuit or not. So it be ok. When taken out yer can power the coil and measure resistance across the contacts. The 'normally open' will be short circuit to the 'common', when powered. But relay contacts fail wiv pitting and carbon marks if swiching a lot ov power or have hadda lorra use.. So resistance ain't a good enuff test to find a volt drop that will only show when passing several amps across the contacts.

Removing components wiv a manual solder pump ain't easy. Especially if the pcb oles are tight on the pins and its a chuncky relay which soaks in the heat. Easiler to cut the track to the coil so yer can energise the relay in circuit wiv out removing it.

Scratch the track on both sides ov said cut and blob some solder accrossit to rejoin again.

To replace caps yer need the correct capacitance, volts and type. It should say on the side. Like 10nF 50v. Type yer know visually like electrolittic or tanterlum etc. Both spelt wrong assits fred rules spellin dun't count. Some caps are polarised.

Its a lorra faffing about just to save 200 sovs. But it will give us many weeks ov laffs.

If the pcb receives a signal from the main controller to switch said relay, why not just poke yer own version ov said signal in, and measure the relay contacts via the power connecters. Be easier.

Click to expand...

kevstar said:

Been offered a land rover gypsy.....austin gypo chassis with a series 2 body, needs some welding I'll get some pics snot free
he wants something for it.

Click to expand...

Turktowner said:

View attachment 348152

Click to expand...

kevstar said:

Been offered a land rover gypsy.....austin gypo chassis with a series 2 body, needs some welding I'll get some pics snot free
he wants something for it.

Click to expand...

Stanleysteamer said:

Ta mate, well I got some of that!!
The £200 solution would be cheap, ugly and involve a lot of faffing around , the "next up" solution would cost at least €585.
Compared to the €60 I have just lashed out on tools and capacitors, to be delivered soemtime next week.

I had a heck of a job sourcing the exact same make and model type of one sort of Cap and the other is exactly the same Mfarads and voltage, as well as size and distance between pins. Both off ManoMano. Pack of 10 caps, €1.5. delivery €9.5! Just realised I needed 2 per stat. Poop!
Still I don't think they'll all be gone, once I get my cap meter I'll know which ones go, physically considering the small ones are cylindrical they look OK, but yep that don't mean much.
The stat's PCB is powered up, the temp sender actions the lickle relay on the board which then sends power back to the consumer unit on which each individual circuit breaker is situated to tell it to close and send massive power to each heating pad. They are designed to take a lot of current as many houses don't have this system and all the power passes through the stat.

I could get a 24 VDC psu for about €20, more or less, but for just this one job?

I too have wondered if the problem could be down to dirty points on the relays. As the relay is stuck so closely to the PCB and I cannot tell which connection does what, I'd have a job putting power across the coil or even testing it for resistance.
I'd have to take one off then open it up to look at, which I might do if nec.

I'll keep you all posted as I know my DIY is good laughs value for you all!!!

And how many peeps do you know entertaining you with two different systems on two different houses???
I should start my own YouTube channel!

Click to expand...

6pot said:

Oh for Maplins still being around. Are RS still trading?

The relay will likely either have the operating coil or the contacts rated at 24VDC and 250VAC respectively or vice versa. I would guess that with 16A being mentioned that will be the current carrying capacity of the contacts so 250v for those, 24v for the coil.

Click to expand...

kevstar said:

I thought the recent ones were boring.

Click to expand...