I would just like to say

kevstar said:

Fl2 td4 weights in at 1770kg so recommended towing weight should be around 1500kg. Bit less with no doors init.
Have you tried towing a 1.5t mini digger & 500kg trailer with a fl2 id bet it would be on its knees.

Handy chart for towing weights............https://www.towingcapacity.co.uk/towing-capacity-chart.html

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According to that list, I'd have had to have had a small lorry to tow some of the stuff I have towed with the Discos!
I purposely bought them as they had a towing weight of 3.5 tonnes.
So I don't know where Gary White is getting all this from.

Stanleysteamer said:

According to that list, I'd have had to have had a small lorry to tow some of the stuff I have towed with the Discos!
I purposely bought them as they had a towing weight of 3.5 tonnes.
So I don't know where Gary White is getting all this from.

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My Rangie Handbook says max 3,500Kg with braked trailer, and with a maximum nose weight of 150Kg.

Hippo said:

There comes a time when yer has to fink issit worth towing a second car all that way. She may want to drive it but want and need are different fings. The trip would be easier wivvoot the tow.

They increased the towing limit on the FL2 at some point. It will be in the sales brochures in me sig.

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There are various combos of what we could do and we have given a lot of them thought.
Buying a Frog car would be one, although we have no garage.
Buying an estate and towing a smaller ornery trailer would be another.
We still have to transport steres of wood, but we could do it in other ways than by filling up the back of a Disco with wood.
It is just so flipping useful to have a big vehicle. Like the time I had to go to Carcassonne and pick up a metre long chest freezer as they wouldn't deliver! And each year I leave my big weedwhacker/mulcher with a neighbour and I can just get it into the back of the Disco with the rear seats folded forward. Couldn't get it into an FL2. or an estate car. Even if I built a garage it'd not be secure as nowt is down here.

Hippo said:

There comes a time when yer has to fink issit worth towing a second car all that way. She may want to drive it but want and need are different fings. The trip would be easier wivvoot the tow.

They increased the towing limit on the FL2 at some point. It will be in the sales brochures in me sig.

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It's not just her that likes driving it. It is a practical and fun car which is also fairly economical, avg 36 mpg.

Hippo said:

Av gorra go. Eye hassa nooker table to make. Eye has redesigned me finking on the corners into the pockets. Size was a concern. Eye were making em too small by not taking into account the custion strip. Eye wanted to make em a bit smaller to replicate the pocket to size ratio of a 12 foot table onto one 2 furds of the size. Yer hafter get the bends, width and drop bit setup right to wurk wiv each other or it won't wuk and yer balls rattle int pockets too often.

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I take it you have already measured your balls?
If they are the same size as a full size or a 12 foot tabul you'll need pockets the same size.
I've played on full size, half size and other smaller tables. But never really thought about measuring the balls.
Where have you got them from if you don't mind me asking?

DanClarke said:

My Rangie Handbook says max 3,500Kg with braked trailer, and with a maximum nose weight of 150Kg.

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Exactly!

So, the Vent D'Autun is blowing it's guts out. Gusts are knocking all sorts of things over.
It isn't quite a cold as it has been but it has been raining on and off a lot. More is expected every day over the enxt 10 days.

Just taken delivery of the new heating element for the dishwasher, so that'll be yet another voyage of discovery.
Also spent a ridiculous amount of time with old thermostats and the new one, trying to figure out how to wire it in.
The old ones, I have discovered, connect to 3 wires, positve or "phase" neutral and load, The fourth "pilote" wire is u/s as I think it is supposed to be conencted to some sort of centralsie controller which was never fitted.

The new one tells you to only connect the positive and the neutral. ???
So I used a meter to try and work out what would happen when the thermostat clicked from "off" to "on" and back.
That made no sense at all. When I turned the knob to "asking for power" it broke the connection and when I did the opposite it turned it on. It also has a third connection which I think could be connected to "load". I did all this at the dining room table going nowhere near connecting it to actual power. Just using the ohm meter.

I went back to an old working one and got it going, hanging off the wall, so I could test the voltages both in the "on" position, i.e. with the stat asking for connection to the heating coil, and "off". Purely by turning the stat knob. It is connected positive to positive, neutral to neutral and the third wire to "load".
Here I seemed to find that "load" was triggered from the neutral. I am sure this all makes sense to peeps like @gstuart but it beggars me.
In fact on the new one, if I reversed the Phase and the neutral teminals and ran the third wire to the other connection (which I think is "load"), it looks like it may work, but I am unwilling to do so until I am much surer I am right. At least the things are on RCBs and the stat only works a relay and doesn't take the heating element's power.

all good fun.

Well not much.
Have a nice Satdi folks!

gstuart said:

Think ur right up to around 2016 when the other newer models were being launched but I don’t think by much

Still impressed on a few models of how quick some of there 0.60 mph times are considering there weights , mines around 8 x seconds and then some of the petrol FFRR I think are just under 6x seconds but of course that’s just splitting hairs

Do wish Land Rover had continued to build models - designs individually so they had character and not like them today of being much of the same

these days there’s nothing really to replace the D4 / FL2 or defender in a similar guise , of course understand to make them more modern but in narrowing stages instead of drastic ones that they’ve done and by doing so think it’s put a lot of people off the brand in going to another brand

Casing point in the G Wagon of don’t fix what’s not broke

Sorry I’m waffling again

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Disco sport and d5 are replacements. They have a family image but they're different vehicles when you compare.

Stanleysteamer said:

I take it you have already measured your balls?
If they are the same size as a full size or a 12 foot tabul you'll need pockets the same size.
I've played on full size, half size and other smaller tables. But never really thought about measuring the balls.
Where have you got them from if you don't mind me asking?

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Gottid a propper set from cue and case online. Aramith. Made from fenolic resin. Got the pocket templates oft the web. If yer imagine firing from one corner diagonal to the other, on a 12 foot table, the pockets are this big in yer vision (____). Eye were finking of making the pockets this big (___) on an 8 foot table so they look the same size assa 12 foot, from distance.

Hippo said:

Gottid a propper set from cue and case online. Aramith. Made from fenolic resin. Got the pocket templates oft the web. If yer imagine firing from one corner diagonal to the other, on a 12 foot table, the pockets are this big in yer vision (____). Eye were finking of making the pockets this big (___) on an 8 foot table so they look the same size assa 12 foot, from distance.

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Glad you are getting it sorted propah.
Pockets on Pool tables are far too big to get games over quicker and more money in the machine.
I think you need to relate the size of the pocket to the size of the ball, more than width from distance.
If you make the pockets small due to them being closer but it is then too hard to get the balls in the pockets it ain't really fair.
Only you will know, but just thinking off the cuff.
And I do know that making the side pockets will be very different to making the corner ones.
Where are you getting the rubber from to go along the sides and ends?

And this!
Just feel SO sorry for parents and kids that have to go to "academy Trust" schools.

NO teacher packs a job in that is paying the rent, and stuff, at the drop of a hat.

I once towed a disco 1 on a trailer weighing a ton with my 200tdi Disco 1
55 to 60 mph all the way home from Cornwall (260 miles) and it never bothered it, towed straight and true

landowner said:

I once towed a disco 1 on a trailer weighing a ton with my 200tdi Disco 1
55 to 60 mph all the way home from Cornwall (260 miles) and it never bothered it, towed straight and true

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So just over 3 tonnes towed weight.
As you said, it should have been OK and it was.
This is exactly what we bought our Disco 1 for and then the Disco 2. Great towing vehicles long distance.

Stanleysteamer said:

So, the Vent D'Autun is blowing it's guts out. Gusts are knocking all sorts of things over.
It isn't quite a cold as it has been but it has been raining on and off a lot. More is expected every day over the enxt 10 days.

Just taken delivery of the new heating element for the dishwasher, so that'll be yet another voyage of discovery.
Also spent a ridiculous amount of time with old thermostats and the new one, trying to figure out how to wire it in.
The old ones, I have discovered, connect to 3 wires, positve or "phase" neutral and load, The fourth "pilote" wire is u/s as I think it is supposed to be conencted to some sort of centralsie controller which was never fitted.

The new one tells you to only connect the positive and the neutral. ???
So I used a meter to try and work out what would happen when the thermostat clicked from "off" to "on" and back.
That made no sense at all. When I turned the knob to "asking for power" it broke the connection and when I did the opposite it turned it on. It also has a third connection which I think could be connected to "load". I did all this at the dining room table going nowhere near connecting it to actual power. Just using the ohm meter.

I went back to an old working one and got it going, hanging off the wall, so I could test the voltages both in the "on" position, i.e. with the stat asking for connection to the heating coil, and "off". Purely by turning the stat knob. It is connected positive to positive, neutral to neutral and the third wire to "load".
Here I seemed to find that "load" was triggered from the neutral. I am sure this all makes sense to peeps like @gstuart but it beggars me.
In fact on the new one, if I reversed the Phase and the neutral teminals and ran the third wire to the other connection (which I think is "load"), it looks like it may work, but I am unwilling to do so until I am much surer I am right. At least the things are on RCBs and the stat only works a relay and doesn't take the heating element's power.

all good fun.

Well not much.
Have a nice Satdi folks!

Click to expand...

Hi mate

Indeed from the programmer u will have the switched live when ch time turns on, then into the thermostat and back out to the motorised valve , so when u call for heat it sends a switch live to the valve, the valve opens which presses a micro switch and that goes onto turn the boiler on

Hope that makes sense

The room stat will normally have live in from programmer
Live out as the thermostat is turned up, that goes to the motorised valve

The neutral to the room thermostat helps reduce the + or - of the swing temperature making it more accurate

Sometimes an extra wire is added to a room thermostat on a mid position valve so when u turn the dial down it closes the motorised heating side off

Old room stats was 1) live in, from programmer , 2 x neutral and 3) switched live back out of the stat to the motorised valve , that’s a Honeywell and of course they can change from stat to stat

Hope that makes sense

Plus there are voltage free thermostats that are wireless , let me find a wiring diagram for u

Here I go mate , this is like an installers wiring bible which helps wiring from programmers, room thermostats and how different systems are wired up

Alas they are normally hard to find unless u know what book ur looking for , Really hope this is useful to u

gstuart said:

Hi mate

Indeed from the programmer u will have the switched live when it turns on, then into the thermostat and back out to the motorised valve , so when u call for heat it sends a switch live to the valve, the valve opens which presses a micro switch and that goes onto turn the boiler on

Hope that makes sense

The room stat will normally have live in from programmer
Live out as the thermostat is turned up, that goes to the motorised valve

The neutral to the room thermostat helps reduce the + or - of the swing temperature making it more accurate

Sometimes an extra wire is added to a room thermostat on a mid position valve so when u turn the dial down it closes the motorised heating side off

Hope that makes sense

Click to expand...

Hi mate, and thanks for this.
What I should have mentioned and forgot peeps don't always remember what I post in such detail is that the system is an underfloor heating system. NOT a WET one.
Each room has heating coils or cables in a special sort of concrete which sits below the floor tiles.
Each room or area has it's own stat. 11 in all I think.
Over a period of time they have started failing one bhy one. When you try to make one work the little red light just clicks on and off . They come in two parts, one sits in a box in the wall the other is the face plate. I have tried swoppoing face playtes from known good working ones and it makes no difference so I know the problems always lie with the hidden unit. It has at least three capacitors, two small cylindrical ones and one larger oblong yellow one. I suspect that this is where the problem lies but as you know I am now electronic engineer.

So In the past I have replaced two with modern versions of the originals. They even have the same make and model number but they now have LCDs and even more complexity and they are flipping expensive, €40 euros each and that was a few years ago!

So I am trying to replace them with much simpler bimetallic ones.
If I can get this one to work then I have found ones on the net far, far cheaper.

All they need to do is act as stats. They don't even need to do on-off, I can do that from the consumer unit.
So each unit's load wire goes off to a relay that switches power to the huge underfloor cables. Or does it? Does the neutral wire do it as well? This is the massive question I am trying to get my head around.

You need to speak to me in extremely simple terms.
And I can see while I have been typing this that you have added another couple of posts that I have yet to read.

Thanks for your help mate

Usual pumped CH and HW, ur see what i mean about the room thermostat, hope it makes more sense instead of me waffling away, lol

gstuart said:

Usual pumped CH and HW, ur see what i mean about the room thermostat, hope it makes more sense instead of me waffling away, lol
View attachment 315811View attachment 315812

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Gary, I think I am going to have to start a PM with you as this will be boring for peeps not involved.
I'll put up pics, wiring diags and notes on what I have discovered with a meter, for both sorts of stats and maybe you will be able to help me figure it out.
I am scared that what seems obvious really isn't that obvious.

Really really grateful for your help, mate.

But first comes the voyage into the internals of the dishwasher!!