I need your old window regulators

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TD4&ABIT

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84
:) I am trying out a few ideas with window regulator wire repairs and I am in need of your old or faulty regulators, can you help me help you.
If I am able to get hold of a few regulators and my repairs work I will post a "HOW TO" repair a window regulator wire correctly.

PLEASE HELP ME HELP YOU.
 
Good luck with the project. I had also seen the repair kits on ebay and wondered if anyone had had any success using them.
 
What I am trying to do is to make a HOW TO repair document with photos with step by step instructons. I have read many posts saying use a bike cable (thats fine) but dont tell you how to fit it.

I want to make a HOW TO for every regulator on the freelander, I think this would help other members, what do you think.
 
You might be right LR'S in general are so reliable that you wonder why this forum is here?
 
:( OK you win, why should I bother !!! just because you find it simple to fit JUST A PIECE OF WIRE, therefore every one must find it simple to fit.

WHAT IS THE POINT OF TRYING TO HELP OTHER FREELANDER OWNERS WITH THERE PROBLEMS IF THEY ARE SO SIMPLE.

I had a window regulator wire snap and could not find any information on how to fit a new wire, so I thought I would try and get the information together.

If it is so simple why don't you make a step by step document on how to replace the wires on all Freelander window regulators, now that would be helpful to us dim wits.
 
It's not one of these things you're after is it?
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii264/bustersbus/freelanderwindowregulator.jpg

Sure there was another wire that had snapped but dunno where it is!!

Thanks Bustersbus for being so helpful, yes thats one of the regulators, but due to the a number of short sighted members saying that there is not a problem (its just a piece of wire) and the lack of support I have decided not to continue with this project, whats the point if members are happy using bike brake wire as a crude repair or replacing the complete regulator at a cost of between £70 and £300.
 
Thanks Bustersbus for being so helpful, yes thats one of the regulators, but due to the a number of short sighted members saying that there is not a problem (its just a piece of wire) and the lack of support I have decided not to continue with this project, whats the point if members are happy using bike brake wire as a crude repair or replacing the complete regulator at a cost of between £70 and £300.

Wind your neck in TD4.

I did the repair several years back without any giudance from Haynes.

I didnt have a digital camera so couldnt take pics.

There is nothing crude about the brake cable fix, why replace the whole regulator when it is just a cable. Then the very same fitting breaks in the same way and you payed £90 for the part, more fool you.


Here are some cables below, the top one is the original window cable, note the terminal ends. I replaced the smaller hex lug, this is the detached lug in the pic. Next two attachments show the size of the small hex lug, the new lug needs to be the same and clips into the spindle, which is driven by the regulator.

The lower two cables are a gear a brake cable from a bike, note the difference in the sizes of lugs. The brake cable is the same thickness as the window cable.

The cable slides through a sleeve so you have to assemble then crimp a lug on to the cable after assembly.

If you can change a brake cable on a bike then you can repair the window ;)
 

Attachments

  • Window and Brake cables.jpg
    Window and Brake cables.jpg
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  • Window cable Lug Head on.jpg
    Window cable Lug Head on.jpg
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  • Window cable lug side view.jpg
    Window cable lug side view.jpg
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Wind your neck in TD4.

I did the repair several years back without any giudance from Haynes.

I didnt have a digital camera so couldnt take pics.

There is nothing crude about the brake cable fix, why replace the whole regulator when it is just a cable. Then the very same fitting breaks in the same way and you payed £90 for the part, more fool you.


Here are some cables below, the top one is the original window cable, note the terminal ends. I replaced the smaller hex lug, this is the detached lug in the pic. Next two attachments show the size of the small hex lug, the new lug needs to be the same and clips into the spindle, which is driven by the regulator.

The lower two cables are a gear a brake cable from a bike, note the difference in the sizes of lugs. The brake cable is the same thickness as the window cable.

The cable slides through a sleeve so you have to assemble then crimp a lug on to the cable after assembly.

If you can change a brake cable on a bike then you can repair the window ;)

Great imformation thanks N.I. You ommited to mention where you obtained the correct size lug from to crimp to the cable or did you reuse the original?
 
Wind your neck in TD4.

I did the repair several years back without any giudance from Haynes.

I didnt have a digital camera so couldnt take pics.

There is nothing crude about the brake cable fix, why replace the whole regulator when it is just a cable. Then the very same fitting breaks in the same way and you payed £90 for the part, more fool you.


Here are some cables below, the top one is the original window cable, note the terminal ends. I replaced the smaller hex lug, this is the detached lug in the pic. Next two attachments show the size of the small hex lug, the new lug needs to be the same and clips into the spindle, which is driven by the regulator.

The lower two cables are a gear a brake cable from a bike, note the difference in the sizes of lugs. The brake cable is the same thickness as the window cable.

The cable slides through a sleeve so you have to assemble then crimp a lug on to the cable after assembly.

If you can change a brake cable on a bike then you can repair the window ;)

Sorry NI didn't mean that your repair was crude, what I was trying to get across was that there was no Documentation, your post is very helpful and a big step in the right direction. Many thanks.
 
Great imformation thanks N.I. You ommited to mention where you obtained the correct size lug from to crimp to the cable or did you reuse the original?

I didn't use lugs on mine, i got a bit 1m length of that small pipe (think it was 5mm dia) from B&Q and cut two small 5mm (ish) lengths folded the cable end through it then soldered it up, its solid..

NI's cable method is pretty much tried and true..and has saved me a load o dosh on new regulators that would just brake again anyway :)

Methos.
 
Great imformation thanks N.I. You ommited to mention where you obtained the correct size lug from to crimp to the cable or did you reuse the original?

I made a new lug from lead, thats what the brake cable comes with, any gas flame will melt down the lead, you only need 1g and an old tablespoon. No druggies please ;)

the original lug on the dor window is 4.3 x 5.5mm, you will see where it locks into the plastic spindle. I drilled a 5mm hole in some hard wood, inserted the cable with a swan neck on the end (folded back on itself) poured in the molten lead, allow it to set for 30 secs. Then filed it down a bit, its not rocket science.

Or as others have done, You could solder the lug along with some sort of crimp around the terminal end. So long as you key the cable into the lug, it should never slip or come undone.
 
Sorry NI didn't mean that your repair was crude, what I was trying to get across was that there was no Documentation, your post is very helpful and a big step in the right direction. Many thanks.

No problem, looks like we got our wires crossed, pardon the pun ;)

If you want to do a HOW to, then go ahead, we look forward to the results.

There are the doors, rear door and sunroof mechanism to cover.

Someone else did the sunroof repair, it wasnt me, I have targa panels :)
 
I made a new lug from lead, thats what the brake cable comes with, any gas flame will melt down the lead, you only need 1g and an old tablespoon. No druggies please ;)

the original lug on the dor window is 4.3 x 5.5mm, you will see where it locks into the plastic spindle. I drilled a 5mm hole in some hard wood, inserted the cable with a swan neck on the end (folded back on itself) poured in the molten lead, allow it to set for 30 secs. Then filed it down a bit, its not rocket science.

Or as others have done, You could solder the lug along with some sort of crimp around the terminal end. So long as you key the cable into the lug, it should never slip or come undone.

Great tips. Many thanks :p
 
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