I just got a Landie

On or around Mon, 01 Nov 2004 18:37:20 +0000, "Paul S. Brown"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>P.
>
>Deciding that he quite likes Series motors to work on, if he could just
>figure out what damn sizing system they use - it ain't metric and it
>doesn't appear to be any variant of imperial I have in my toolkit.

there are probably bits of whitworth/BSF still on the series, what age is
it?

they're nice simple things, though. I had a 1961 SII for a while, and it
was great.

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Mon, 01 Nov 2004 18:37:20 +0000, "Paul S. Brown"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>P.
>>
>>Deciding that he quite likes Series motors to work on, if he could just
>>figure out what damn sizing system they use - it ain't metric and it
>>doesn't appear to be any variant of imperial I have in my toolkit.
>
> there are probably bits of whitworth/BSF still on the series, what age is
> it?
>
> they're nice simple things, though. I had a 1961 SII for a while, and it
> was great.

It's a 1982 Series III - I'd have hoped that they might have standardised by
the end of the run, but remembering other BLMC cars I've had from the time
it's probably got bits of prototype Defender and whatever was left over
from the lightweight and god knows what else on it.

Series motors always were the poor cousins of parts bin specials, weren't
they?

If I keep it, I'm considering a flip-top mod I saw last night - weld the
bonnet to the wings, put a strut along the bottom and mount the radiator on
a separate subframe. Stick a set of Maxi tailgate gas rams either side and
have the entire front of the car lift away for maintenance.

P.

--
If Mind over Matter is a Matter of Course
Does it Matter if Nobody Minds?

>P.
>
>Deciding that he quite likes Series motors to work on, if he could just
>figure out what damn sizing system they use - it ain't metric and it
>doesn't appear to be any variant of imperial I have in my toolkit.

Most bodywork and engine is AF (hex head). The gearbox (excepting the
propshaft bolts) will be mostly Whitworth, inculding the ones holding
the handbrake drum on.

Worth investing in a set of Whitworth and AF spanners/sockets if you
intend to be doing a lot of work on it

Alex

On or around Mon, 01 Nov 2004 22:23:56 +0000, "Paul S. Brown"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>If I keep it, I'm considering a flip-top mod I saw last night - weld the
>bonnet to the wings, put a strut along the bottom and mount the radiator on
>a separate subframe. Stick a set of Maxi tailgate gas rams either side and
>have the entire front of the car lift away for maintenance.

I had an 86" series I like that once, briefly. 'twas handy for getting
access to the 2.4 Jag engine that someone had fitted into it. JTX267, where
are you now?

Rocky Frisco wrote:
> -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com

*ROCKY*?!?

Blimey, you get everywhere! :-D

On Monday, in article <[email protected]>
[email protected] "Paul S. Brown" wrote:

> Alex wrote:
> eyes open knowing damn well that it was a problem - I'm treating it as a
> learning experience.
>
> With a bit of luck I'll shut up when the HBOL I bought on eBay last night
> turns up.

The Series Land Rover HBOL is pretty decent.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

On Monday, in article <[email protected]>
[email protected] "Paul S. Brown" wrote:

> Deciding that he quite likes Series motors to work on, if he could just
> figure out what damn sizing system they use - it ain't metric and it
> doesn't appear to be any variant of imperial I have in my toolkit.

Depending on age, you might come across Whitworth threads in some
places.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

On Tue, 02 Nov 2004 13:48:22 +0000 (GMT), [email protected]
("David G. Bell") wrote:

>On Monday, in article <[email protected]>
> [email protected] "Paul S. Brown" wrote:
>
>> Alex wrote:
>> eyes open knowing damn well that it was a problem - I'm treating it as a
>> learning experience.
>>
>> With a bit of luck I'll shut up when the HBOL I bought on eBay last night
>> turns up.
>
>The Series Land Rover HBOL is pretty decent.

And pretty inaccurate. Go look at the section on front axle, it
informs you that you must put 1 pint or 1.4 litres of EP90 in the
swivel housing. Well, good luck attempting to put 1.4 litres in it. If
they can't even get that right.....

Which indentally leads me to another item, this time in a Haynes Book
Of Lies for a much later car (Vauxhall Carlton/Senator/Omega) which
informs me that I to replace the wishbone balljoints I must drill the
rivets out with a 12mm drill. Had I followed this I would have been
buying new wishbones as well, as the resulting enlargement from 8mm to
12mm hole would have seriously compromised the position of the
balljoint, and consequently the tracking/camber etc.

I'm too long in the tooth to get caught out by Haynes any more

Alex

In article <[email protected]>, Alex wrote:
>
> Which indentally leads me to another item, this time in a Haynes Book
> Of Lies for a much later car (Vauxhall Carlton/Senator/Omega) which
> informs me that I to replace the wishbone balljoints I must drill the
> rivets out with a 12mm drill. Had I followed this I would have been
> buying new wishbones as well, as the resulting enlargement from 8mm to
> 12mm hole would have seriously compromised the position of the
> balljoint, and consequently the tracking/camber etc.
>

But a 12mm drill would remove the head of the rivet nicely and you'd punch
the rest out, surely. Whenever I remove rivets, which is not very often
admitedly, I use a large drill to remove the head and stop drilling there.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 22:29:29 GMT, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Worth investing in a set of Whitworth and AF spanners/sockets if you
>intend to be doing a lot of work on it

Worth investing in them anyway if you find them cheap enough. I got a
King Dick set from Stoneleigh Town and Country Festival a few years
ago for 15 quid. Also got a King Dick 1/4 drive BA set for a tenner.

On Tue, 02 Nov 2004 18:12:25 +0000, Mother <"@ {m} @"@101fc.net>
wrote:

>On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 22:29:29 GMT, Alex <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Worth investing in a set of Whitworth and AF spanners/sockets if you
>>intend to be doing a lot of work on it
>
>Worth investing in them anyway if you find them cheap enough. I got a
>King Dick set from Stoneleigh Town and Country Festival a few years
>ago for 15 quid. Also got a King Dick 1/4 drive BA set for a tenner.

I've got Metric, AF, Whit/BSF, BA, Bi-Square Sockets, Torx bits,
Security Torx Bits, Torx Sockets, Hex bits and some odds and sods,
mostly on 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" although some big ones are on 3/4".

And I hate people who round off sump/drain/filler plugs. I have a
bi-square sockets to fit them, why do people use bloody spanners and
wreck them? If you havn't got the correct bloody socket for the job,
go and ****ing buy it! That applies to c-spanners for gearbox output
shaft locknuts and box spanners for hub nuts as well. Don't use a
bloody chisel!

Alex

On 2 Nov 2004 17:22:26 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, Alex wrote:
>>
>> Which indentally leads me to another item, this time in a Haynes Book
>> Of Lies for a much later car (Vauxhall Carlton/Senator/Omega) which
>> informs me that I to replace the wishbone balljoints I must drill the
>> rivets out with a 12mm drill. Had I followed this I would have been
>> buying new wishbones as well, as the resulting enlargement from 8mm to
>> 12mm hole would have seriously compromised the position of the
>> balljoint, and consequently the tracking/camber etc.
>>
>
>But a 12mm drill would remove the head of the rivet nicely and you'd punch
>the rest out, surely. Whenever I remove rivets, which is not very often
>admitedly, I use a large drill to remove the head and stop drilling there.

Its doesn't say "remove the head of the rivet with a 12mm drill" or
"drill off the head of the rivet with a 12mm drill".

It says "drill out the rivet with a 12mm drill" The two are quite
different. To the untrained novice, and easy mistake is here.

I remember another Haynes manual which said something along the lines
of "tighten the hub bearing nut to 35lbft and secure with split pin"
completely failing to mention that you tighten it to 35lbft, back it
off and then nip it up, followed by a split pin. The end result of
which meant someone coming to me whinging about the hub bearing they'd
replaced (rear of an old Astra, IIRC) had failed again in 200 miles.

Funnily enough, I checked an older edition of the HBOL (the one with
the text in 2 columns, not three) and it mentioned the correct
procedure. The later edition (three columns) had been re--worded with
the above result.

Alex

"Alex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got Metric, AF, Whit/BSF, BA, Bi-Square Sockets, Torx bits,
> Security Torx Bits, Torx Sockets, Hex bits and some odds and sods,
> mostly on 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" although some big ones are on 3/4".
>
> And I hate people who round off sump/drain/filler plugs. I have a
> bi-square sockets to fit them, why do people use bloody spanners and
> wreck them? If you havn't got the correct bloody socket for the job,
> go and ****ing buy it! That applies to c-spanners for gearbox output
> shaft locknuts and box spanners for hub nuts as well. Don't use a
> bloody chisel!

Why?


Lee D

Lee_D wrote:

> "Alex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've got Metric, AF, Whit/BSF, BA, Bi-Square Sockets, Torx bits,
>> Security Torx Bits, Torx Sockets, Hex bits and some odds and sods,
>> mostly on 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" although some big ones are on 3/4".
>>
>> And I hate people who round off sump/drain/filler plugs. I have a
>> bi-square sockets to fit them, why do people use bloody spanners and
>> wreck them? If you havn't got the correct bloody socket for the job,
>> go and ****ing buy it! That applies to c-spanners for gearbox output
>> shaft locknuts and box spanners for hub nuts as well. Don't use a
>> bloody chisel!
>
> Why?
>
>

Because you also have to do the nuts back up, and chisels are less useful
for that?

P.
--
If Mind over Matter is a Matter of Course
Does it Matter if Nobody Minds?

On Tue, 02 Nov 2004 23:56:42 GMT, "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Alex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I've got Metric, AF, Whit/BSF, BA, Bi-Square Sockets, Torx bits,
>> Security Torx Bits, Torx Sockets, Hex bits and some odds and sods,
>> mostly on 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" although some big ones are on 3/4".
>>
>> And I hate people who round off sump/drain/filler plugs. I have a
>> bi-square sockets to fit them, why do people use bloody spanners and
>> wreck them? If you havn't got the correct bloody socket for the job,
>> go and ****ing buy it! That applies to c-spanners for gearbox output
>> shaft locknuts and box spanners for hub nuts as well. Don't use a
>> bloody chisel!
>
>Why?
>

It ****s the nut up, that's why! And you can't get the correct tension
when you do it back up!

Alex

Paul S. Brown wrote:


> Any ideas what would cause a S3 to lock the wheels completely - they just
> won't turn - my guess is that the handbrake may have welded itself on, or
> something catastrophic in either the gearbox or transfer box.
>
> If you stick the car in gear, rev it and then let the clutch out you get
> torque effects from the drive train - the entire car tries to twist.
>
> The front wheels still move, but that's because the FWHs are released.

And after a day skinning my knuckles and discovering that I really want to
buy one of those little 12v impact drivers from Halfords the answer is.....

Rear diff is dead.

Yay to those who thought it might be.

Replacement on order from Paddocks - £70+VAT - along with gaskets and a
replacemnet set of propshaft bolts.

I was going to buy one from my local recovery place, but it turned out
they'd told me a mistruth when asked if they had an S3 rear diff - they had
something that would fit, but being a Rangie diff I'd also have to replace
the front one, which isn't happening.

The diff should arrive Friday. I'll try and remove the old one before then.
It looks like an uncomplicated job (not easy - nothing is ever easy with a
landie).

P.
--
If Mind over Matter is a Matter of Course
Does it Matter if Nobody Minds?

"Paul S. Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...

> Rear diff is dead.
>
> Yay to those who thought it might be.
>
> Replacement on order from Paddocks - £70+VAT - along with gaskets and a
> replacemnet set of propshaft bolts.

£70 for a full new diff? seems cheap?

Nige

Nige wrote:

>
> "Paul S. Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Rear diff is dead.
>>
>> Yay to those who thought it might be.
>>
>> Replacement on order from Paddocks - £70+VAT - along with gaskets and a
>> replacemnet set of propshaft bolts.
>
> £70 for a full new diff? seems cheap?
>

It is. That's a 2nd hand one.

The cheapest recon one I could find was £147+VAT at Dingocroft. The cheapest
new one was £250+VAT.

Landrover list them at 347+VAT with a £500 deposit against the old one.

P.
--
If Mind over Matter is a Matter of Course
Does it Matter if Nobody Minds?

Paul S. Brown wrote:

> It looks like an uncomplicated job (not easy - nothing is ever easy with a
> landie).

As per my post a couple of days ago - it's easy. The hardest bit is
lifting the heavy lump out and lifting the new one in.



--
EMB

EMB wrote:

> Paul S. Brown wrote:
>
>> It looks like an uncomplicated job (not easy - nothing is ever easy with
>> a landie).
>
> As per my post a couple of days ago - it's easy. The hardest bit is
> lifting the heavy lump out and lifting the new one in.
>
Taking the propshaft off should have been "easy".

The fact that one of the bolts was made from potmetal with a high tensile
core and had adhered to the drive flange and rounded as soon as I put a
spanner on it made it far from easy.

I ended up removing the bolt (not the nut) with a cold chisel.

Uncomplicated - not easy.

P.
--
If Mind over Matter is a Matter of Course
Does it Matter if Nobody Minds?