I have galvanised my bulkhead what size tap and die do I need?
- Thread starter d8moa
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jamesmartin
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for what theres a few m6 x1
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+1 on M6. I think there should have been a couple of M5's cos when I did mine and started replacing stuff there were a couple of bolts that just slid in. Too late, I'd tapped the holes M6, so I just put new M6 bolts in. 
Flossie
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There's some m8s too....
You may find that the rivnuts are loose and you have to renew them.
You may find that the rivnuts are loose and you have to renew them.
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To let the water out that leaks in i suggest a 3/4" bath tap.
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Seeing as you'll be recutting existing threads rather than ploughing through virgin metal, just get one of those cheap metric sets from Machine Mart or similar. Should be fine (mine's still OK after three years) and then you've got all the likely sizes. It's great to be able to take the rust or old Locktite (or even zinc) off a threaded component so that new bits go together easily.
Flossie
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Bathtap..class hehe!
d8moa
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There's a few different ones
I have small studs which I assume are M6. There are bigger studs for the support bar? Poss M8 but don't know what pitch and there is a few cap nuts I need to tap for check strap bolts and wiper motor etc
Flossie
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Do what Brown says and get a cheap tap and die set.
All 6mm threads are 1mm ,8mm are 1.25 pitch.
On my rebuild, in a few places, I tapped out some threads to metric so I didn't have the fannage of trying to find unf bolts/ nuts in stainless.
Don't recall any studs on my bulkhead?
T'was 12 yrs ago though.
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What support bar? Where are the small studs?
I think the door check strap and wiper bolt holes are M6
Flossie
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I'm wondering if he means the little plates that tuck up inside the top of the bulkhead, the threads poke through and from memory, are for top wing fixing?
Supposed to remove them before galv
Probably lying at the bottom of the zink bath now.
Flossie
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Mmm, shiny..
These studs. It's a puma bulkhead and has a support bar across it
Litch
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Sorry to sound wise after the event but I think you should have considered this before it went for galvanising.
When I had mine done a couple of years ago I put bolts into all the threaded holes and a series of nuts on the studs, from what I recall there wasn't any re-tapping of holes to be done afterwards. The reason I did this was having had several parts galvanised before I realise how difficult it can be to re-tap some of the smaller threads. I also photographed and measured all existing holes so that I knew where they were, the small ones (that self-tappers screw into) can all but disappear when galvanised and it meant that I cleared them out before I started fitting the dash etc.
The biggest problem I had was clearing out the bonnet mounting brackets, they are so close to the flat that it was impossible to drill them but in the end I discovered the easiest method (which only took a couple of minutes) was to clean them out with a length of M6 threaded rod, its length meant that it could be worked through the hole from beyond the door-pillars. Easy when I had worked it out.
What did you do about the vent mesh, I removed mine beforehand and then bonded it back into place after galvanising?
When I had mine done a couple of years ago I put bolts into all the threaded holes and a series of nuts on the studs, from what I recall there wasn't any re-tapping of holes to be done afterwards. The reason I did this was having had several parts galvanised before I realise how difficult it can be to re-tap some of the smaller threads. I also photographed and measured all existing holes so that I knew where they were, the small ones (that self-tappers screw into) can all but disappear when galvanised and it meant that I cleared them out before I started fitting the dash etc.
The biggest problem I had was clearing out the bonnet mounting brackets, they are so close to the flat that it was impossible to drill them but in the end I discovered the easiest method (which only took a couple of minutes) was to clean them out with a length of M6 threaded rod, its length meant that it could be worked through the hole from beyond the door-pillars. Easy when I had worked it out.
What did you do about the vent mesh, I removed mine beforehand and then bonded it back into place after galvanising?
Flossie
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d8moa
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It is the 1st item I have ever had done. And I have learnt from my mistakes! When I started tapping the threads I thought I should of just bolted and nutted it! Hey-ho you live and learn!
It's a puma bulkhead so don't have the mesh
Litch
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Have you already done a trial fit of the dash assembly, if not you may well be drilling into your newly galvanised bulkhead?
If you do have to drill, make sure you assemble with copious amounts of Waxoyl (or similar), this will prevent any corrosion of the bare metal.
If you do have to drill, make sure you assemble with copious amounts of Waxoyl (or similar), this will prevent any corrosion of the bare metal.
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Puma, ah ha, that's too posh for me. No studs on mine, so no die needed for me. The threaded holes tapped very easily after being galved.
No studs on mine, so no die needed for me. The threaded holes tapped very easily after being galved.Litch
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Must be an early one then.
My 300TDi bulkhead had two pairs of studs fitted, one pair on O/S footwell for the bonnet release handle and a second pair on the underbonnet side, not certain what the latter ones were originally for (they had never been used and were still fitted with the plastic covers) but I use them as earth points for which they have proved perfect.
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Ooh, bugger. The bulkhead I have is a 200Tdi, my landy is a 300, but I didn't realise I'd been sold the wrong one until I had it prepared and beautifully painted. Haven't got as far as fitting the bonnet release yet. It'll interesting taking the tarpaulin off on Saturday morning!
