I did busteded it agin!

OK guys, bit of information.

I've got a Defender 110 CSW TD5, 2000 model. Always reliable as anything. Only had one problem before (that wasn't my fault) and it was with the lights.

So the new situation.
Driving down the road, been driving around 5 minutes. Engine cuts out. Will not restart. It fires up but then stops running.

So far, for what could be wrong all I've got is...
- Air in fuel (solution in haynes manual)
- Dirt in filter stopping fuel flowing (change element)
- Preheating system fcuked (nah, don't think its this one)


So, anyone got any more ideas/solutions for me? Wanna get a big list of what could be wrong, and then work through them nice and methodically in one big push.

Cheers,

Me

i had the a similar problem with my td5 90 it ended up being the ECU but luckily it was still under warranty from the garage we brought it from.

As above it could be oil in the ECU or ECU plug under the drivers seat. It might be a loose earth connection also under the drivers seat and a common problem. These are both easy to fix, hope your lucky. Of course you could be out of fuel.

As those above have already said, Check for oil contamination in the injector wiring loom and loose earth. Also give all the fuses and relays a wiggle as they are prone to corroding up and also rattling loose. I suspect your fault will either be due to oil in the injector loom or that your in tank fuel pump is knackered.

OK. Well. So far I've...

Replaced fuel filter
Replaced air filter (it's a diesel so...ya know)
Ran purging system umpteen times
Cleaned ECU wires with a cloth.

But ECU wires. On the side of the ECU its very oily. On the side of the wires which plugs into the ECU, its not. I take it this is a very bad thing?

Also, when the purging system runs I can hear the fuel pump running. It stops, makes a swirling fuel noise, waits a second, and then restarts. Is this normal?

Thanks,

Ash

The pump should run for about 3 minutes from memory then it stops and I to turn the key again to start it again. This took me about 6 attempts before it fired up.
Im not sure where you say the oil is under the seat in the red socket? Plug it out from the ECU and look.

Oil under the seat. Well. I'll speak like an idiot now. Because I don't know the technical terms, so I'll make it nice and easy so even I can understand

The ECU under the drivers seat is a silver box. It has a red multiplug and a black multiplug going into it. In the red multiplug, one half is attached to the ECU. One side is attached to a bunch of wires coming into the underseat box.

On the side with the wires attached, there is very little oil. On the side which is attached to the ECU. There is lots and lots of oil.

I have a very bad feeling this means I have to replace the injector loom?

Plug out the red and black sockets then take out the ECU (I think there is only 3 bolts holding it down) then leave it in your shed,garage or on the kitchen floor on an old rag with the sockets facing down so the oil will drain out. Hopefully this will clear the ECU if left overnight. You will need to clean the red plug too, as you look into the plug the white plastic bit with all the holes will just pull out making it easier to clean. Then strip back the black cover off the cable into the red plug, 4 or 5 inches should be enough. This should stop the oil wicking down the cables into the ECU. Try this first before splashing out on a new injector loom.

OK. Will go and do that right now. Where's me headtorch...

ECU is now leant up against the kitchen side, spilling oil on the counter, ready for the parents to come down in the morning.

Love landies

Hopefully that will sort out your ECU. The next steps are opening the ECU to clean it out(which I have never had to do and if plan A works you wont either) and taking off the rocker cover to seal that side of the injector harness with silicone, maybe you wont need to do this either. Let us know how it works out.

Landy needs a new ECU What a bitch of a thing to happen.

Apparently the "top switch" has gone. But he found no evidence of it going because of water/oil damage! What the hell could of happened to it? Any ideas?

And what the hells is a "top switch"?

Its inside the ECU on the circuit board Id imagine not sure though, if that is where its at what else could have shorted it other than water or oil getting in there. Who has it now main dealer?

DLS. Used to be called derbyshire land rover. Like a main dealer, but alot cheaper.

Hope its not to expensive, I to get one replaced one on the wifes astra 3 or 4 years ago and it cost over £400 thats main dealer though.

Less than that. I've checked up and I'll be paying less than half what it would cost if I bought the part myself even!

But I'm only 18, and just got back into full time work yesterday...so funds are tight

Lets do a swap, you can have my 2.5TD and ill have your busted TD5, that will get you back on the road. It will even just drop straight in if i can have the R380 as well :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi