Hub nut box spanner mod

Before I did the wheel bearings on my 90 I bought a box spanner for the hub nuts, however when it came to torquing them up after fitting new bearings I hit a snag. You can't put a torque wrench on a box spanner, I ended up putting a T bar through the holes and fitting the torque wrench to a socket on the square of the Tbar, not ideal.
So this morning I took a piece of flat bar and an old 1/2" socket and modified the box spanner to accept my torque wrench, works OK and a lot cheaper than a proper 52mm socket

How landys should be maintained Might be firing the old mig this week so might take my spanner with me.

Genius.

might sound daft here but i've never heard of anyone using a torque wrench to do their hub nuts up after wheel bear change. is there a specific torque for them then as everyone i know just does them by hand until tight.

yes
depends on type/age of vehicle.

ah right look into that then as i will be doing my front and rears soon and possably changing to discs on the back as well.

its something like 4Nm for the inner and about 65 for the locking locknut if i remember correctly, but have never bothered torquing them just tight then back off and hand tight for inner and R.F.T for the outer once the tabbed washer has been bent in or until it affects free spinning of the hub.

this help?

SHORT ROUND said:

might sound daft here but i've never heard of anyone using a torque wrench to do their hub nuts up after wheel bear change. is there a specific torque for them then as everyone i know just does them by hand until tight.

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If you read Land Rovers instructions it goes on about end float and some such nonesense that nobody, not even a Land Rover dealer would attempt. I was told :-
Inner nut, torque to 50 ft/lbs and spin the hub
Slacken off 1/4 turn and retorque to 10ft/lb, spin the hub and torque to 10ft/lb again.
Outer nut torque to 50ft/lb.

It works for me.

The Mad Hat Man said:

this help?

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Thats it I new I'd seen it somewhere, I have to say if you only tighten the inner nut to 4Nm you will be doing it again in two weeks.

i think yu will find it says tighten it to 61Nm, then back off and retighten to 4Nm, then tighten outside lock nut to 61Nm.

The Mad Hat Man said:

i think yu will find it says tighten it to 61Nm, then back off and retighten to 4Nm, then tighten outside lock nut to 61Nm.

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Yes I saw that but I don't think that 4Nm is enough. If you only tighten to 4Nm what ever the outer nut is tightened to, within a couple of weeks you will get (to me unacceptable) lift in the bearing if you jack it up and pull on the wheel.

How would you measure 4Nm? my torque wrenches don't go down that low, 4Nm is three parts of 10% of sod all.

Do what I did, buy a 1/2 " drive socket off of fleabay for about twenty odd quid....saves fookin about.
LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 10 130 52MM HUB NUT 1/2" DRIVE SOCKET - DA1118 | eBay

waldershelf said:

Yes I saw that but I don't think that 4Nm is enough. If you only tighten to 4Nm what ever the outer nut is tightened to, within a couple of weeks you will get (to me unacceptable) lift in the bearing if you jack it up and pull on the wheel.

How would you measure 4Nm? my torque wrenches don't go down that low, 4Nm is three parts of 10% of sod all.

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I've got a torque wrench that goes down to 2Nm.
I tighten mine by the book and they're fine.

Most premature bearing failure is caused by over tightening.

Trewey said:

I've got a torque wrench that goes down to 2Nm.
I tighten mine by the book and they're fine.

Most premature bearing failure is caused by over tightening.

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My 3/8 drive torque wrench starts at 5Nm which I suppose is near enough to 4Nm.
I agree that most bearing failure will be down to over tightening which is probably the result of not using a torque wrench rather than using 4 or 10 or whatever, the figures we are talking about are small variations on "up but not tight".

The advice I got comes from a specialist of many years standing and who's advice I trust (to a point )

I thought the idea was great and i did the same thing myself, so thanks for the tip.

I put the first nut on and bottom it out so that there is a lot of resistance, then back it off till I can spin the hub freely, I then give it a little more to allow for settling - 10°.

Always worked for me, that would be based on the old instructions I guess.

Wooh brilliant tip

Welded mine up last night

I did this to my box spanner when I got it, saves a few quid.

A for tightening up to torque settings 4nm is tight enugh for the inner and has to be re tightened after a few weeks as the new bearing will be bedding in leave mine 3-4 weeks and do them again and there always fine only go when the rear seal goes and the mud/water gets in and ruins the bearing...