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Hub leak

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by payydg, Aug 1, 2020.

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  1. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Having redone the rear drum brakes and wheel bearings on my 200tdi 90. There seams to be a slight leak from the dust cap via the end of the half shaft after its first run on both wheels. I was probably slightly excessive with the bearing grease when I did the bearings.

    We drove for about 3hrs

    it’s on both wheels. Not a huge amount?

    Would be odd for both front seals to fail, tho they were tight and had to be tapped in using an old seal.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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    I put a bead of silicone around the edge of the cap when I take mine off and replace them. They don’t seem to leak.
     
  3. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    + 1 on the above.
     
  4. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle De Villes Advocaat

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    Show off. :rolleyes:

    oil in your axle indeed :oops:
     
  5. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Actually one is constantly leaking. I’m guessing I’ve ****ed the front seal?
     
  6. bluedog333

    bluedog333 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like it, although shouldn’t the rubber hub cap be able to contain the leak if it was in good shape?
     
  7. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    I replaced them with new **** part ones that don’t actually seal that well
     
  8. bluedog333

    bluedog333 Well-Known Member

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    Ahh, right. Probably best to get the seal sorted anyway (were they Britpart by any chance?). I pay a bit extra for the genuine hub caps, the rubber seems to make a decent seal.
     
  9. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Cortico OEM seals. Never skimp on bearings or seal but occasionally go blue box on other stuff.
     
    v8250 likes this.
  10. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Hmmmm back now after a trip to the highlands. Both are leaking a lot. The wheel rim is soaked. Nothing out the brake drum so assuming it’s mostly from the drive flange. Odd that both would leak so much. Looks a combo of EP90 and bearing grease. I’ve done this job a few times and never had issues so not sure what I’ve done wrong. Will take one apart and see what’s what.

    will check axel breather as well
     
    Hicap phill likes this.
  11. frog hopper

    frog hopper Well-Known Member

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    Axle breather is important, check mine on a regular basis.
     
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  12. dag019

    dag019 Well-Known Member

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    I would also revisit the rubber end caps. As stated above they themselves should not leak and although not designed to be do work as seals themselves and keep the oil and grease form coming out the end. But they need to be a good tight fit and a flexible rather than a rigid rubber. I have used britpart ones in the past that were very good but the last one I fitted was a very loose fit and would spin freely on the flange, so was replaced with an oem version which once fitted was stuck tight and would not move.
     
  13. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    I now fit series metal caps to my 90, tougher and seal well with a silicon bead.
     
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  14. Rougharse Racing

    Rougharse Racing Well-Known Member

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    I had a similar problem on the rear axle of my 110. I tried all sorts to seal the hub-caps without success, silicone sealer etc. I eventually sorted it by wrapping a piece of duct tape around the recess in the hub before knocking the caps on. I don't seem to have the same problem on the front.
    I don't know why the halfshafts don't have an integral drive flange like the Range Rover Classics and early Discovery, particularly as they have a habit of wearing the splines. It had crossed my mind to weld the flanges onto the halfshafts, but that is probably a bad idea.
     
  15. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    With the older type hubs that allowed axle oil to migrate into the hub the drive flanges/shafts did not go dry and wear.
     
  16. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Still need to take it apart and have a look. The brit part caps are **** you can spin them easily and pull them off by hand easily
     
  17. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    So the breather was blocked and helpfully the ****ing bolt snapped taking it off. Any ideas on how to get that out. Theres a stub of the old bolt (|the one with a hole down the middle) but not really enough to get some mole grips on. Tried heat and plus gas obviously. May try one of the stud removers with the reverse thread as there's already a hole down the middle.
     
  18. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    One of the worst things about stud extractors is it snapping off as you try to turn the stud out making the job even harder.
    A better bet is reverse twist drill bits, quite often as you drill into the stud it will come out [ heat generated from drilling helps ] or at least you will have a larger hole to fit a larger less likely to bust extractor.
     
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  19. dag019

    dag019 Well-Known Member

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    Arn't the breather bolts brass from memory? In which case they are very soft and easy to drill. Drill increasingly sized holes until you are at the threads of the axle casing by which point you should be able to either pull out the remaining threads or using a punch fold the remnants in on themselves so it easily unscrews. Then change the diff oil to remove any swarf.
     
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  20. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    I don't want lots of metal filings going into the axel.... so was going to try and avoid drilling
     
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