Hub end float?

Hi,

I've just spent the day!! I know!! fitting new seals on the rear hub to stop the leak. Everything sort of went fine ( I still don't know If I put the seals the right way around) but on reading the haynes manual after completing the job they talk about placing a dial on the end of the stub axle to measure hub endfloat! Does the 90 TD (1990) have a stub axle? should I put a dial on the half shaft to measure endfloat? Do I really need to do this anyway?
Any help would be gratefully received,

Jon

animatedsnail said:

Hi,

I've just spent the day!! I know!! fitting new seals on the rear hub to stop the leak. Everything sort of went fine ( I still don't know If I put the seals the right way around) but on reading the haynes manual after completing the job they talk about placing a dial on the end of the stub axle to measure hub endfloat! Does the 90 TD (1990) have a stub axle? should I put a dial on the half shaft to measure endfloat? Do I really need to do this anyway?
Any help would be gratefully received,

Jon

Click to expand...

The stub axle is at the front.

The rear axle seals go with the open ends facing inwards towards each other, I usually pack them with some grease it gives them a chance to bed in better. I dont have a picture of the hub you mention though so this is the normal way.

If it's tapered bearings then you need a slight pre-load on them, take them up tight, spin the hub a few times to settle it, back off the adjusting nut then take it back up with a slight preload, check you have no lift when you rock the hub, then run the locknut up tight and lock the tabs over, make sure when you do the locknut you dont move the inside nut and increase the preload.

there will be a proper loading for it but I doubt that you will have the tools to do it, the way I described is the way we have done it for years on vehicles.

See if you can download the doc.

david451 said:

The stub axle is at the front.

The rear axle seals go with the open ends facing inwards towards each other, I usually pack them with some grease it gives them a chance to bed in better. I dont have a picture of the hub you mention though so this is the normal way.

If it's tapered bearings then you need a slight pre-load on them, take them up tight, spin the hub a few times to settle it, back off the adjusting nut then take it back up with a slight preload, check you have no lift when you rock the hub, then run the locknut up tight and lock the tabs over, make sure when you do the locknut you dont move the inside nut and increase the preload.

there will be a proper loading for it but I doubt that you will have the tools to do it, the way I described is the way we have done it for years on vehicles.

See if you can download the doc.

Click to expand...

Meant to say, was the axle worn where the seal runs, it's always a good idea to clean it up since it can tear the new seal, also if there is a grove or wear see if you can knock the seal a little bit further into the hub to miss the bad bit.

And finally check your rear axle breather is not blocked, this causes the oil to **** out through a seal as well.

Hope you checked the bearings for pits and the tracks they run in for tracking and wear.

Any doubt on your seals then don't run it strip it again and check, somebody on here will have the docs for you.

Thanks for all the help. I think I've done as you have said. If I have tightened the nut too much what would be the result? and the front has just started to show signs of a leak. Is it the same process or will I need to "dial in" movement on the stub axle?

Thanks,

Jon

animatedsnail said:

Thanks for all the help. I think I've done as you have said. If I have tightened the nut too much what would be the result? and the front has just started to show signs of a leak. Is it the same process or will I need to "dial in" movement on the stub axle?

Thanks,

Jon

Click to expand...

No need for dial indicators, just had my front hubs off last week, to check the wheel bearings, when I bought it last year the guy fitted new discs but there was too much lift in the hubs so I took the front bearings out and greased them and refitted it all, with a good squirt of grease in the hub. Two nuts again with a locking washer.

If you take up the nuts too tight then it can damage the bearings over time, but when you rotate the hub whilst you are doing it you will feel that it's too tight, it starts to bind, but as I said enough to take the play out and a smidgen more, just a touch. Check the lift after a good run just in case, and your wheel nuts and so on, all the usual stuff, dont just presume it's ok.

My guess is your front leak is at the balls at the rear of the front hubs coz they all leak, if it is then get some grease lithium the same stuff you put in yer prop, mix it in a milk carton with 50% gear oil and use that to top up your hubs, the filler is at the top of the hub. it's a square headed thing but a socket will go on it, if you turn the hub and look in you will be able to clear the working bits to get it in and use a bit of wire to dip it for a level, the little level plug on the hub might break off if you try to get it out.

Mine had fookall in it when I got it and ****ed the oil out, but the mix is more acceptable, it's a common fix, allbeit it will still leak a bit, but all landies leak.

Thanks again for your help,

I'll try and book some time off from the wife next weekend to have a look at it!! Will I still need the usual seals, gasket etc?

Jon

animatedsnail said:

Thanks again for your help,

I'll try and book some time off from the wife next weekend to have a look at it!! Will I still need the usual seals, gasket etc?

Jon

Click to expand...

I have a wife like that as well, but try and be more dominant, just fookin tell her.

Remember to post the pics of yer GBH, yel need to tell the hospital of course yer fell down some stairs, too ebaroosing to say the wife did it.

Dunt strip the hub if there is no lift, the front end only lets you into the wheel bearings anyway, it's fairly involved to try and replace the sphere seals, just fook the oil into it, and clean up the occasional blob of grease of yer drive, when it stops blobbing fill it again.

I do think it funny that they suggest using dial gauges etc on a vehicle designed to be field maintained in a jungle or a desert!