1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Welcome To LandyZone!

    LandyZone is the biggest Land Rover forum on the net. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.

    Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!

How to - replace the front Transfer Box Output Oil Seal

Discussion in 'Common Faults and Questions' started by Trewey, Jun 26, 2008.

< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
  1. Trewey

    Trewey Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2006
    Posts:
    20,009
    Likes Received:
    642
    Location:
    Kernow - Near England
    Here's how I did mine.....

    First I drained the oil from the Transfer Box..
    Remove the filler plug (a 1/2" ratchet fits)

    [​IMG]

    Then remove the drain plug...

    [​IMG]

    and allow the oil to drain into a suitable container....

    [​IMG]

    jacking up the front of the Landy will make access easier and allow you to rotate the propshaft by turning the wheel. Chock the rear wheels and support on axle stands too for safety...

    [​IMG]

    Next, you need to remove the front propshaft. Mark the propshaft and the drive flanges, so that you can replace it in the same alignment.

    There's not much room to get a socket or spanner on the nuts...

    [​IMG]

    so, disconnect the diff end first (where there's more space). This then allows you to push the propshaft up (towards the oil filter) and create space to get a socket on the Transfer Box end nuts.
    THE NUTS ARE 9/16" NOT 14mm - it makes a big difference!

    [​IMG]

    Remove the propshaft and you will see a large nylock nut in the centre of the drive flange. Put the Landy in gear and undo this (30mm socket) - it's tight!

    [​IMG]

    You can then remove the drive flange and spacer washer and expose the Oil Seal.

    [​IMG]

    Prize the old oil seal out with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage it's seat.

    [​IMG]

    This was my old Seal - the round spring, which holds it tight on the drive flange had completely detatched - that's why it was leaking so badly.

    [​IMG]

    Clean up around the inside of the seal seat and the shaft of the drive flange. My drive flange was slightly burred, so I used some fine wet-n-dry to smooth it off.

    [​IMG]

    Lubricate the outside of the new seal, and the inside of the seat, with some clean EP90.

    [​IMG]

    Then push the new seal into place, taking care to keep it square and avoid damaging it. It's a tight fit - I used my 52mm hub-nut socket as a drift, whilst tapping it in with a hammer.

    [​IMG]

    Then lubricate the inside of the seal, and the outside of the drive flange with some clean EP90, before pushing the drive flange back into place. Don't forget to fit the propshaft bolts through the drive flange before re-fitting it.

    [​IMG]

    Refit the washer and big nyloc nut (best to use a new one if possible)...

    [​IMG]

    ...and re-tighten the nut to the specified torque (135 lbft or 2 good grunts on a 2ft breaker bar).

    [​IMG]

    Re-fit the prop-shaft (Transfer Box end first) and tighten the bolts to 35 lbft (best to use new nuts if you can).

    Re-fill the Transfer Box with fresh EP90 - one of these oil syphons makes the job a lot easier.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the jack and take it for a test drive.

    Job Done!
     
    Haystacks likes this.
  2. bustersbus

    bustersbus Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Posts:
    13,755
    Likes Received:
    51
    Location:
    Near Dumfries, Scotland
    Nice one Trewy;) :D
     
  3. landy10

    landy10 New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2007
    Posts:
    1,872
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    On me couch infront of laptop Obviously!
    exyslent work mr trewy dont feel so bad bout doin mine now :)
     
  4. gazman

    gazman Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2011
    Posts:
    670
    Likes Received:
    92
    Good write up. Gonna tackle mine soon.
     
  5. Ian72

    Ian72 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2016
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Doncaster
    So I replaced my seal on Saturday. The problem I have is tightening the 30mm Nut back on. I Have had it in gear out of gear, reverse..... In reverse I managed to get some resistance to the nut and got it tightish..... Given that the manual says this should be at about 200nm torque how the hell do I tighten it. When I apply a lot of pressure (with a sleeved wrench) it reaches a certain point and then rolls through... Is this normal and if it is how do I get resistance in order to properly tighten this nut?
     
  6. Dippypud

    Dippypud Never Knowingly Understood

    Joined:
    May 2, 2011
    Posts:
    41,701
    Likes Received:
    14,647
    Location:
    In my drum, at my Manor, in Wooly Witch, Lunnen
    Put it in gear in diff-lock...
     
  7. Ian72

    Ian72 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2016
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Doncaster
    Aahhh. Now why the hell didn't I think of that!
     
  8. Ian72

    Ian72 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2016
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Doncaster
    Thanks Dippypud.
     
< Previous Thread | Next Thread >