How to replace Diff input bearing.

ScratchyDom said:

^^ One post, trolling twit!

Replaced the oil in me front diff last week. What came out was just sludge and Scratchy has now developed an oil leak out of the diff input and on closer inspection there's a fair bit of play there n'all. Guess I'll be following your guide Trewey... How long did it take you..?

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Just a quick tip for you Dom if you are not familiar with it, whenever I'm working with sump plugs, fill flugs etc I always wrap the threads with ptfe tape and never get any leaks as a result.

Cheers
Dave

thebiglad said:

Just a quick tip for you Dom if you are not familiar with it, whenever I'm working with sump plugs, fill flugs etc I always wrap the threads with ptfe tape and never get any leaks as a result.

Cheers
Dave

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Good tip, but it ain't the plug that leaking it's around the input. Yet another drip... drip.. drip.

ScratchyDom said:

Guess I'll be following your guide Trewey... How long did it take you..?

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Once the diff is out and on the bench, it should only take an hour to replace the bearing and seal.

Brilliant guide, managed it all in under an hour.


all parts out (not shown crown and planet gears). Made a makeshift roll pin remover out of an old allen key from an IKEA set and lopped angle end off.


I have a few extra tips:

stick the bearing racer in the freezer for 20-30mins, shrinks it just enough to help getting lined up and tapped in quicker

Make sure you write down the number of turns it took to take the bearing cages and write which sides which on diff somewhere


If your struggling which taking the nut off, stick the prop bolts back in (or bolts you don't mind getting damaged) and get a long arm bar and crowbar.

you should really change both pinion bearings and how did you set carrier bearings

try not to move them when you take the crown out!

Just undo the bolts and then lift the whole thing out in one go and I plonked it somewhere clean and flat on its side. The racers stayed in the the clamp brackets.

then when I put em back in I just did it by eye. Did one side first then the other and then did the bolts up just over finger tight, then tightened the cages up.

On clsoer inspection, they were both fine, but only had the outer bearing to hand. Didn't really fix my problem, but was just to see if I could do it.

Took it for a spin and all was fine. I did heard a loud roaring noise I thought I'd buggered it, but i was an low flying jet!!!

for future use you tighten crown wheel side till freeplay between pinion and cw has been just removed ,then tighten other side till backlash is put back 6 thou

Thank you very much for this thread, I am going to nip out to my local auto store and grab the lubricants and tools i require, i understand 99% of the guide, but could you please tell me a brief process of topping up the Swivels when re-assembled please? What/where are these? Also how much and what, should i buy lubricant wise? thanks for future info!

DanIIITDI200 said:

Thank you very much for this thread, I am going to nip out to my local auto store and grab the lubricants and tools i require, i understand 99% of the guide, but could you please tell me a brief process of topping up the Swivels when re-assembled please? What/where are these? Also how much and what, should i buy lubricant wise? thanks for future info!

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There's a square-headed filler plug on each swivel housing. Some vehicles have a drain plug too, but some don't. Fill with ep90 until it reaches the filler plug or a sachet of one-shot grease, but don't over-fill or it will end up on your brake discs - not good!
I think there's a Buster's guide for this.

thanks alot for your reply

Sorry just another brief question , how much of the ep90 am i better of buying, am i not better off mixing the two ? how much will be required to top up the diff ? and if im filling to the filler plug, is it not impossible to overfill ? lol im a little confused without being under the landy, but i will be underneith it first thign in the morning, thanks for the help

Great!