How to remove a shrader valves EAS.

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If this is your daily runner, I would consider replacing the valve block o-rings as preventive maintenance while you also check the compressor.
It would be interesting knowing beforehand why the schraeder valves were fitted.
 
Ok guys,

I've tested the pump with its air output disconnected by fusing pins 3 and 5 and it runs nice and strong. Plenty of air coming out of it.

So what next? Am I reconnecting everything and turning it all on to see what happens?

Thanks in advance!
 
Ok guys,

I've tested the pump with its air output disconnected by fusing pins 3 and 5 and it runs nice and strong. Plenty of air coming out of it.

So what next? Am I reconnecting everything and turning it all on to see what happens?

Thanks in advance!

If you have read my "How To" you will note that getting compressor to run by bridging 3 and 5 does not mean it can be run by EAS ECU if thermal switch is knackered, do the checks on that before you drop the suspension and have it stuck on bump stops.
 
Yesterday I did the continuity test and its came back ok. A nice little beep!

Anyway just taken the valves off and lowered it, shut all the doors, started engine, and attempted to get the software to turn the pump on. Nothing!

Instead of a steady lines of FF coming back in the RX box, I'm getting 1, FF, 1, FF etc. but I've tried every come port and this is the only one that brings anything back. However the TX is exactly the same. What ever goes out is also coming back. See pic.

Any advice would be good, otherwise ill be putting the valves back on and pumping it back up manually!!
 

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Yesterday I did the continuity test and its came back ok. A nice little beep!

Anyway just taken the valves off and lowered it, shut all the doors, started engine, and attempted to get the software to turn the pump on. Nothing!

Instead of a steady lines of FF coming back in the RX box, I'm getting 1, FF, 1, FF etc. but I've tried every come port and this is the only one that brings anything back. However the TX is exactly the same. What ever goes out is also coming back. See pic.

Any advice would be good, otherwise ill be putting the valves back on and pumping it back up manually!!

Have you got green good idle. Have you looked for faults and cleared them? Nothing will happen if you haven't. No messages on dash? If not EAS is somehow disabled. You have to find out how. Is delay relay present. Is ECU plugged in?
 
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Have you got green good idle. Have you looked for faults and cleared them? Nothing will happen if you haven't. No messages on dash? If not EAS is somehow disabled. You have to find out how. Is delay relay present. Is ECU plugged in?
Looking at the Screenshot...there is no Green Good Idle indicated...need to get the Comms sorted first!
 
Have you got green good idle. Have you looked for faults and cleared them? Nothing will happen if you haven't. No messages on dash? If not EAS is somehow disabled. You have to find out how. Is delay relay present. Is ECU plugged in?

No the green good idle flashes randomly but isn't constantly on. I don't know how to get it to stay on permanently, bit of a new world this.

Looked for faults, got lots and lots of them, can't clear them. E dash displays eas fault, slow 35 mph.
Where is the delay relay? Ecu is plugged in.

Ay info on how to get a steady idle on this software would be a massive help. That's had me confused all day!!
 
No the green good idle flashes randomly but isn't constantly on. I don't know how to get it to stay on permanently, bit of a new world this.

Looked for faults, got lots and lots of them, can't clear them. E dash displays eas fault, slow 35 mph.
Where is the delay relay? Ecu is plugged in.

Ay info on how to get a steady idle on this software would be a massive help. That's had me confused all day!!

That is all i need to know if you have dash message. Must have steady good idle and green light. Read faults clear them and all should work. You won't get compressor to run from diagnostics until you have a firm connection. Check OBDII connector. Delay relay is under passenger seat black tall relay. USB connection to laptop can give problems. Lots of contradictive faults means bad comms with laptop.
 
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Does the green good idle literally mean engine idle or is it to do with the connection?
I'm using USB as I don't have a serial port on my laptop. Ill check the obd connector is in ok and get back to you.

Thanks again for this.
 
Does the green good idle literally mean engine idle or is it to do with the connection?
I'm using USB as I don't have a serial port on my laptop. Ill check the obd connector is in ok and get back to you.

Thanks again for this.
connection try all the USB plug in ports you have , rumor has it Acer laptops are not good connectors .
Check the actual pins on the orb connector for Corrosion.
 
Checked for corrosion, all good.

Tried in both of the two ports I have available, same result on both.

It's an hp laptop, an old cookie too but running windows 7.
Not getting anywhere fast here!
 
That is all i need to know if you have dash message. Must have steady good idle and green light. ......
Not so Tony, When I tried my All Comms on Dopeys P38 (all Comms is supposed to work on the P38), we got the beeps and message but no connection...

Once Dopey got the Lead and Disc from Keith, we tried again...connected and comms Green from the first attempt....

All the Beep and Message means is there is something trying to talk to the Car...not that the talk is in the right language!!
 
I bought my lead from eBay so it might not be right but he's got good feedback on all the leads?
Anyway tried the ports again. Nothing. So I'm gonna get a serial male to male connector and remove the USB bit to see if that is messing things up.

Ps who's Keith?!
 
Not so Tony, When I tried my All Comms on Dopeys P38 (all Comms is supposed to work on the P38), we got the beeps and message but no connection...

Once Dopey got the Lead and Disc from Keith, we tried again...connected and comms Green from the first attempt....

All the Beep and Message means is there is something trying to talk to the Car...not that the talk is in the right language!!

No, he has slow 35 mph max on dash. That means nothing will happen until faults are cleared. If he has not got steady good idle and green light the software is not communicating with the ECU properly. That is why he is getting dubious fault codes. It depends which windows he is working with USB driver can be a big problem. I have an ACER USB laptop that i cannot get to connect. Not that i have tried that hard. I use an old serial Dell that connects first time every time. Has this bloke got Keiths lead or one off eBay?

PS. He just answered my question above.:):):)
 
No, he has slow 35 mph max on dash. That means nothing will happen until faults are cleared. If he has not got steady good idle and green light the software is not communicating with the ECU properly. That is why he is getting dubious fault codes. It depends which windows he is working with USB driver can be a big problem. I have an ACER USB laptop that i cannot get to connect. Not that i have tried that hard. I use an old serial Dell that connects first time every time. Has this bloke got Keiths lead or one off eBay?

PS. He just answered my question above.:):):)
Understand all that Tony...think we may be talking different Points...

Yes with the message on dash = faults...

Also when you plug lead in - you get the message also - which means it is in Diagnostics Mode!

So we are both right...:D
 
Understand all that Tony...think we may be talking different Points...

Yes with the message on dash = faults...

Also when you plug lead in - you get the message also - which means it is in Diagnostics Mode!

So we are both right...:D

Yes but did he have that message before he plugged in the laptop? If he did and the laptop is not talking to the ECU other than in a garbled manner, he will never clear it.
 
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