How to remove a shrader valves EAS.

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customknight

Active Member
Posts
164
Location
Cheshire
Hey guys and gals,

Has anyone ever removed manual shrader valves from a P38? I want to attempt to get my EAS working again. I have the free software and associated cable and have had the laptop talking to the eas ecu today. However I think it has every fault going and without being able to power the pump up and see if it does anything I'm at a cross roads! For the moment I have the eas bypass in place to run it in EAS MANUAL mode so I can actually use my trip meter.
Are there any existing threads regarding this subject or anyone who has been through this manual to eas process I could speak to? The problem is that it is my everyday car so I'd have to do it of a weekend in case I get stuck.
If anyone can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Cheers,
Rich
 
Most people do not fit schrader valves in the first place.
First step, using the software, is to run the compressor and see if it making pressure, there is a "how to" section at the top of the page. Until you can run the compressor and it makes good pressure you cannot proceed.
 
I didn't fit the valves, I bought it like this!

So how am I going to know if it makes good pressure when all the air lines from the valve block are disconnected?

Maybe I'm beîng dumb (quite likely) but I can't see a 'how to' section?? :eek:
 
So your saying they have removed the four lines to each air bag , the valve system it usually wired in conjunction with the valve block to each air bag .
 
Yup. They've removed them from the valve block. They're sat right next to it with valves on the ends. I would have just inserted a t-piece myself for manual operation, or used diagnostics!

What I need to know is exactly how to remove the valves from the surliness without cutting them, obviously I'm aware I will have to depressurise the system, don't fancy my face being rearranged under 175psi myself!

Secondly I need to know how to reinstall them into the valve block. There is nothing hanging out of the valve block, just the brass looking unions within the block. No bits of airline. They haven't been cut because you can still see the little collar bit on the airline which normally sits about 2mm out from the valve block.
 

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customknight said:
I didn't fit the valves, I bought it like this!

So how am I going to know if it makes good pressure when all the air lines from the valve block are disconnected?

Maybe I'm beîng dumb (quite likely) but I can't see a 'how to' section?? :eek:
Click to expand...
Top of the page there is a how to section. you don't need the lines connected to test the compressor, look in the EAS box, under the compressor there is a blue pipe, disconnect this from the valve block, run the compressor from the software, put your thumb over the end, if it doesn't blow your thumb off, the compressor is shot and needs new seals and maybe a cylinder.
Once you have a working compressor come back and you can move on.
 
Were the plastic pipe goes into the valve theres a coller that will be rased up a mm or two
Push the coller in and give the pipe a sharp tug and pipe should come out
But as said above check what works and what dont before you disconect anything
If you do get the eas working its a good idea to keep the valves for emergancys
 
Last edited:
customknight said:
Yup. They've removed them from the valve block. They're sat right next to it with valves on the ends. I would have just inserted a t-piece myself for manual operation, or used diagnostics!

What I need to know is exactly how to remove the valves from the surliness without cutting them, obviously I'm aware I will have to depressurise the system, don't fancy my face being rearranged under 175psi myself!

Secondly I need to know how to reinstall them into the valve block. There is nothing hanging out of the valve block, just the brass looking unions within the block. No bits of airline. They haven't been cut because you can still see the little collar bit on the airline which normally sits about 2mm out from the valve block.
Click to expand...

Push the pipe into the valve, at the same time push on the collar where the pipe goes in, while holding the collar in pull the pipe and it should release.
They just push into the valve block assuming the O rings seals are still there.
Pressure is 50/60 psi in the airsprings.
 
First of all press the pip in the valves to let the air out, do evenly. Then press collar on valve and pull valves off pipes. Put red coded pipe in L/H upper port. Blue coded pipe below it. Green coded pipe in R/H upper port and plain none coded pipe below that. But before you do that and are stuck with car on bump stops see my "How to" and check compressor for output.
 
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Wow thank you guys for all the amazing info! This is the best forum I've been on for help and advice ;)

Right well I'm home now (eventually as the range decided it was going to totally drain its battery) so I can't do anything until tomorrow. Judging by the previous owners comments he said that before the EAS was disconnected he replaced all the airbags and the compressor. But he DIDN'T calibrate it afterwards. Plus I'm assuming he didn't know about the 'don't drop the axle too far or you'll break the heights sensor' issue. So I don't know what's going on there. But he did say that initially it all worked fine but as soon as it reached its proper height one corner would sag, so he disconnected the airlines.
It seems clear to me that he had no clue about the EAS or any software available so I'm guessing it was a garage who's fiddled with it.

When I read the values for the heights using the software, for all four modes the entires were identical so I think someone has been messing about.

Ill keep hoping that this is fixable Nd crack on again in my spare time tomorrow and hopefully not have a flat battery in the morning!
 
customknight said:
Wow thank you guys for all the amazing info! This is the best forum I've been on for help and advice ;)

Right well I'm home now (eventually as the range decided it was going to totally drain its battery) so I can't do anything until tomorrow. Judging by the previous owners comments he said that before the EAS was disconnected he replaced all the airbags and the compressor. But he DIDN'T calibrate it afterwards. Plus I'm assuming he didn't know about the 'don't drop the axle too far or you'll break the heights sensor' issue. So I don't know what's going on there. But he did say that initially it all worked fine but as soon as it reached its proper height one corner would sag, so he disconnected the airlines.
It seems clear to me that he had no clue about the EAS or any software available so I'm guessing it was a garage who's fiddled with it.

When I read the values for the heights using the software, for all four modes the entires were identical so I think someone has been messing about.

Ill keep hoping that this is fixable Nd crack on again in my spare time tomorrow and hopefully not have a flat battery in the morning!
Click to expand...
If all he did was change the bags and compressor - there would be no need to recalibrate!
 
From what I've heard if you allow the height sensors to drop too far you can damage them, which sometimes can be fixed with recalibration, others its a new sensor. Just what I've read.
 
customknight said:
From what I've heard if you allow the height sensors to drop too far you can damage them, which sometimes can be fixed with recalibration, others its a new sensor. Just what I've read.
Click to expand...
Allowing them to go off scale can indeed ruin them, recalibration is hit and miss on if it will 'Fix' them, as the issue is with dirt being dragged across the wiper surface...

On renewal of sensor, yes a recalibration is required!
 
There's always a down side! Well ill take everyone's advice tomorrow and do some more posting when it DOESN'T go to plan ;)

Wish me luck, and any more advice greatfully received.

Oh, to operate the pump I know I have to have all the doors, bonnet and tailgate closed. What about the engine running? Does it need to be running or not? If so how am I supposed to tell if its running if I can't hear it?!
 
customknight said:
So if the sensors go wonky, can they be dismantled and cleaned before a new one is purchased?
Click to expand...

No that cannot be stripped and cleaned. You will need the EASunlock cable and software to clear any faults from DATATEK PM him. You will need a laptop to use it on though. Then you can sort it out yourself. One thing to remember, do the compressor checks, no airy no worky.
 
customknight said:
There's always a down side! Well ill take everyone's advice tomorrow and do some more posting when it DOESN'T go to plan ;)

Wish me luck, and any more advice greatfully received.

Oh, to operate the pump I know I have to have all the doors, bonnet and tailgate closed. What about the engine running? Does it need to be running or not? If so how am I supposed to tell if its running if I can't hear it?!
Click to expand...
Bonnet not included....Engine Running....with bonnet up and cover off, you can either hear it or feel it!
 
customknight said:
There's always a down side! Well ill take everyone's advice tomorrow and do some more posting when it DOESN'T go to plan ;)

Wish me luck, and any more advice greatfully received.

Oh, to operate the pump I know I have to have all the doors, bonnet and tailgate closed. What about the engine running? Does it need to be running or not? If so how am I supposed to tell if its running if I can't hear it?!
Click to expand...

I would think the compressor is either duff or disabled. You will have to find out which. Read the "How to" and take in the info that is what it's there for. You can't damage the sensors dropping car to bump stops.
 
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