How much waxoyl?

I'm looking to spray my 90 chassis with a liberal coating of waxoyl.. does anyone know how many litres of waxoyl would be needed to do a good job?

whilst I think of it, how much to do the chassis on a Disco 2 as well..?

5 litres will comfortably do inside and out, but warm it and add some white spirit too to make it more fluid

Might want to look into dinitrol or anker wax before splashing out

When I did mine I used the waxoyl underseal stuff that comes in schutz cans. I used 5 of them on the outside and a further 3 litres of normal waxoil inside the chassis. Hope this helps.

dis last year used two tins of waxoyl ,,and it helps if u warm it up first before spraying it ,,tip into tub then stick it in microwave for 40 seconds ,goes on lovely then ,ps its a ****ty job to ,as it goes everywhere lol,,if u wash chassis down first leave it a good few days to dry out ,or dry it with air line ,as u dont want to trap damp under the waxoyl ,,best of luck mate

Ankor wax by morris lubricants is way way better than **** waxoyl.
5 litres will comfortably do the chassis, thats what I use each year.
Was on ebay 29.99 delivered for 5 litres which is cheap, just checked its still on offer, so much cheaper than waxoyl and it actually works.
Ebay no 261089886875

Use Dinitrol ML3125 for the internals and Waxoyle or the Dinitrol equivalent on the externals.

Dinitrol ML3125 is a very runny thin solution with wax in suspension, it gets EVERYWHERE, when applied with a spray gun it will actually start to appear as a mist further up the chassis, and anything it touches it coats, so you end up with a much more thorough coating.

Dinitrol products are used by BMW, Mercedes, VW etc at the factory and they are all pretty rust free cars these days.

Use Ankor wax all the time now having used both.

Easier to spray and dispels rather than traps water

Great fan of just using waste engine oil....on top of POR15 of course!!!

i used Dinitrol ML3125, i had to bin my clothes when i'd finished

Dinitrol inside the chassis works well for me too.

POR 15 and Dinitrol for me

Or, if you want THE BEST rust proofing products available:

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes

Ask them for a copy of last year's 42 page University of Hertfordshire report into a 2084 hour salt spray test on steel panels coated in a variety of products (Waxoyl & Dinitrol included).

But it's your choice of course.

Apart from waxoyl.. do the others, dinitrol etc come in black or are they just clear?

garethmorgan50 said:

Apart from waxoyl.. do the others, dinitrol etc come in black or are they just clear?

Click to expand...

Dinitrol gets a vote for me.

Depending on what you use they are different colours.

The Chassis wax is either brown or black, and the interior stuff is brownish.

I have been very impressed with the chassis wax, has proved to be hard wearing as I even sprayed the rear crossmember.

Here is what I did:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/rustproofing-249389.html

As others have said, do consider the Dinitrol thin runny stuff (their 3125) for inside the box sections. It's great to see the mist blowing out of the holes elsewhere in the chassis as you spray it in. I sprayed it in all the holes I could get a spray gun nozzle in until it started dribbling out in other places, and ended up getting about 3 or 4 litres inside my 90 chassis that way. These were legitimate factory-stamped holes not rust holes, by the way. I also put some up the little holes in all the door bottoms until it started running out too. After a winter on the road all the bits I can see still have an oily, waxy feel to them and the surface rust has not progressed at all.

james6546 said:

Dinitrol gets a vote for me.

Depending on what you use they are different colours.

The Chassis wax is either brown or black, and the interior stuff is brownish.

I have been very impressed with the chassis wax, has proved to be hard wearing as I even sprayed the rear crossmember.

Here is what I did:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/rustproofing-249389.html

Click to expand...

Yup, that's pretty much what mine looked like after I'd done it, though I don't have any rust holes yet. I tried not to get it on the axles and suspension components because I knew I'd be wanting to work on them later and I didn't want them covered in black sticky stuff.

I know people like to say how much they've put in the chassis - 'I put 5 litres in mine', 'I put 10 litres in mine' - but if that means it's just running out of the holes it doesn't help much. Better to spray sparingly until it just starts to leak out and keep some back for another spray in a year or two's time in my opinion.

Brown said:

Yup, that's pretty much what mine looked like after I'd done it, though I don't have any rust holes yet. I tried not to get it on the axles and suspension components because I knew I'd be wanting to work on them later and I didn't want them covered in black sticky stuff.

I know people like to say how much they've put in the chassis - 'I put 5 litres in mine', 'I put 10 litres in mine' - but if that means it's just running out of the holes it doesn't help much. Better to spray sparingly until it just starts to leak out and keep some back for another spray in a year or two's time in my opinion.

Click to expand...

Agreed, it is already in the dash cubby and gets on everything I put in there!

Plan to do in the bulkhead and chassis again in the summer when I know it's dry

Brown said:

but if that means it's just running out of the holes it doesn't help much.

Click to expand...

I block all the holes with epoxy putty first That way I can drive around for a while with the stuff in the chassis.
I always do this in the summer months, and remove the plugs to allow water drainage before the winter.
When I remove the plugs, no Dinitrol runs out, which suggests to me that it is all spread over the inside of the chassis.

Turboman said:

I block all the holes with epoxy putty first That way I can drive around for a while with the stuff in the chassis.
I always do this in the summer months, and remove the plugs to allow water drainage before the winter.
When I remove the plugs, no Dinitrol runs out, which suggests to me that it is all spread over the inside of the chassis.

Click to expand...

Slosh'n'seal, then.

Must take you ages. Mine's punched full of holes and looks more like a colander than a chassis.

james6546 said:

Dinitrol gets a vote for me.

Depending on what you use they are different colours.

The Chassis wax is either brown or black, and the interior stuff is brownish.

I have been very impressed with the chassis wax, has proved to be hard wearing as I even sprayed the rear crossmember.

Here is what I did:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/rustproofing-249389.html

Click to expand...

I like the black dinitrol that you've pictured in the rustproofing thread.. I'm looking to use an air compressor to spray mine on.. I take it you used the spray cans.. any idea how much I would need? and how long would it take to do the job..?? If time allows I might do both my landies,..