How long to replace rear fuel lines?

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waterdude

Active Member
Posts
121
Location
Devon
Hi,
i have just noticed a fuel leak from my rear fuel lines on my RRC 3.9efi.
The lines are pretty corroded and need relacement asap. I would do this myself but i am buggering off to West Africa tomorrow for a month.

I will need to get the local 4x4 garage to replace them for me as i dont want the wife spilling fuel everywhere.

Can anyone tell me how many hours this job should take so i can get an idea of how much i will need to pay to get this done (i hate paying when i know i could do the work myself!!!!!)

Cheers,
Stu.
 
Just had the same problem on mine ! The feed pipe runs from the pump under the boot floor to the first cannister filter just in front of the drivers side rear wheel arch . It is the easier of the two , as the return pipe seems to be a one piece affair from the the engine compartment (anyone correct me if i'm wrong on that one ) back to the pump under the boot floor !! So the feed pipe will be cheaper than the return pipe , but they are probably both corroded to excess and will both need doing ! Especially where they pass the rear wheel arch , behind the coil springs/airbags.As you can imagine , with them being clipped to brackets along the top of crossmembers and chassis rails , it is a very tricky job . So what I did was chop out the corroded sections from the pump to the filter on the feed line and from the pump to just in front of the filter housing on the return line , and fitted fuel quality hose with appropriate clips , and even that was tricky feeding it along the correct path ! I sawed the metal crimps off the pump end connections , in order to use the tails sticking out to push the hose onto , the same at the filter . I then hacksawed very slowly through an uncorroded section of return pipe and pushed the fuel hose over the pipe . Hope this helps.
 
Yep, I did it on my 3.9 a couple of years ago, the feed pipe running from the boot to the fuel filter is not too bad, you'll find it easier to drop the tank a bit, but you don't need to remove it, but the one from the filter to the engine is horrible, it runs behind the air compressor housing, so that all has to come off, it's tricky, but you could do it in a day. Watch the bolts on the compressor housing though, they seize and you can't use heat (like I did) as you will melt the plastic air lines. The return pipe can be repaired piecemeal using rubber to interconnect the pipework, I used 8mm central heating pipe, as the return pressure is not very high, you'll need to do the feed one properly though.
 
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