How Do I Adjust Fuel on 200tdi pump?

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landowner

landowner

Pensioner Pete
Full Member
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Any one know how to give the 200tdi more or less fuel please. I would have thought that there would be a screw with a locking nut near the injector pipes somewhere but I can only feel a cap of some sort. Is it a security cap that has to be removed or is the adjuster somewhere else..
Ta..:)
 
landowner said:
Must have a cover on mine as I couldn't feel it inbetween the pipes, I'll have a good look tomorrow, thanks
Click to expand...
It's there but no locking nut. There is a thick ring instead of lock nut and the ring can be spun round. Very strange.:confused:
 
Tig9619 said:
read this
Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump

and this
http://www.stonefisk.com/doc-arc/def_man/ThermoGuard_Tdi_Tuning_Rev.2.pdf

the adjuster at the back is the main fuel adjuster. there are better things to adjust than this. it increases the fuel overall which on low boost produces lots of smoke. have a read its interesting and all my tdis go a lot better with minimal smoke.
Click to expand...


Ta for that..... my 300tdi is going to get fettled when it's in the 110. I did some similar fiddling to an Isuzu engine in a Corsa and it went like ****. It kept with a big Skoda turbo sporty thing up to about 95 out pacing it in places. The boost was made to be adjustable from the dash and the fuel metering thingy was fettled, it smoked a bit but you could spin the wheels in third:eek:...Love it:D
 
The pump on a 200/300 tdi can be adjusted to give 25 BHP extra . This is particularly valuable with autos as it takes that dangerous lag away when pulling away at junctions.
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)

Stage 2

remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT
 
Beast o Bodmin said:
The pump on a 200/300 tdi can be adjusted to give 25 BHP extra . This is particularly valuable with autos as it takes that dangerous lag away when pulling away at junctions.
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)

Stage 2

remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT
Click to expand...

I'll have a go at that when I have an hour to spare on a nice day.....thanks:)
 
will this help with a problem i have on mine? if im stationery and i rev the engine to full throttle after i let go after a second it judders like its about to stall, then after a second its back to normal im worried that this will happen when im offroad or worse still half way a hill? its like the fuel pump cant feed enough fuel to keep up with demand?? any help would be appreciated..... o and sorry for robbing your post! :D
 
mclovin said:
will this help with a problem i have on mine? if im stationery and i rev the engine to full throttle after i let go after a second it judders like its about to stall, then after a second its back to normal im worried that this will happen when im offroad or worse still half way a hill? its like the fuel pump cant feed enough fuel to keep up with demand?? any help would be appreciated..... o and sorry for robbing your post! :D
Click to expand...
Worth a try, easy to put back how it was if it doesn't cure it, just remember how many turns or part turns you adjust it and which way. If revs increase then it's getting more juice and you will have to adjust tickover via the long throttle stop screw
 
Beast o Bodmin said:
The pump on a 200/300 tdi can be adjusted to give 25 BHP extra . This is particularly valuable with autos as it takes that dangerous lag away when pulling away at junctions.
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)

Stage 2

remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT
Click to expand...


I know this is an old thread but I have an issue with this ,
I have made all of the adjustments as mentioned above and on the links but have seen absolutely no difference in performance or smoke, is there a problem elsewhere which is not allowing the mods to work? mine is a factory 200tdi defender engine

any help would be greatly appreciated as this is really confusing me :/
 
Check lift pump, they are total and utter ****, knocks the top end of what little power they have!
 
cheers I asked this on another part of the forum ( more visable) everyones advice seems to be on the pump so will change that asap, currently the engine is out due to and exploding clutch and gearbox ! other work being done the same time so with a bit of luck it will be better afterwards
thanks for the help :)
 
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