How Bad Are P38's ?

listerdiesel said:

So apart from airbags, what else goes wrong with the EAS, and what about BCEM problems?

We have Hawkeye BTW.

Peter

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Not a lot if you keep the valve block and compressor serviced change the drier now and again. Becm problems are usually down to other causes although parts can fail. Biggest problem is getting it damp and bad electrical contacts around the looms. A lot of problems with the P38 stem from that. Contact cleaner can sort a lot of problems out on a P38.

wammers said:

Contact cleaner can sort a lot of problems out on a P38.

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One of the essentials I always have in the back - along with duck tape.

P38's are the most rustproof RR ever and a joy to drive but it's unreasonable to expect such a hugely complicated collection of gadgets to work perfectly 100% of the time given that they've been used for 15yrs. Buy the best one you can to start with but still expect some niggles and never replace dodgy EAS with springs as it'll ruin the car completely and usually costs more than fixing it anyway. A post 2000 P38 is still an awesome car and much nicer to drive than a D2.

If you find one on coils treat it like the plague it has been maintained by a monkey.

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hear hear !

The EAS system on the Range rover is auto levelling, so once coils have been put on that is lost, there's also been some discussion on the forum about coil sprung ranger conversions being subject to failure due to EU legislation.

The other thing is that the self levelling EAS also removes headlamp levelling so with the replacement of airbags with coils this is lost. I cannot say if this would fail and MOT or make the car fall foul of legislation requirements, someone with better knowledge would be able to say so.

It's really not that difficult to fix airbags, tank, compressor and air lines, anyone that wants to replace EAS with coils needs to open RAVE or have a slap.

With regards to headlamp levelling on the MOT, function is not tested, so if all the leveller bits are there and correct no problem.
But a broken arm on a suspension height sensor would fail an MOT

As has already been said, P38's are getting to be a few years old now, and need looking after. Too many people get these cos they're cheap and they want 'champagne' motoring, but on a lemonade budget. Then squeal when they can't afford the upkeep.

N5Fav said:

With regards to headlamp levelling on the MOT, function is not tested, so if all the leveller bits are there and correct no problem.
But a broken arm on a suspension height sensor would fail an MOT

As has already been said, P38's are getting to be a few years old now, and need looking after. Too many people get these cos they're cheap and they want 'champagne' motoring, but on a lemonade budget. Then squeal when they can't afford the upkeep.

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The headlamp leveller bits on a P38 are the air bags. If they are not fitted and the car is on coils any weight in the boot will lift the lamps and cause dazzle. Particularly if the idiot owner has fitted HID lamps.

I love my P38 and wouldn't be without it, second car is a leased Audi Q5 and the Rangie is so much nicer to drive. Benefit of having a fully maintained lease car means more money free to spend on RR.

I bought a 2001 Diesel P38 with little knowledge, but had a experience in land rovers having had them in the past and recently sold a new Defender that I couldn't get on with.

It was 3k to buy and I have spent 4K on it, but essentially swapped out lots of stuff as preventative maintenance but everything that I thought I could get away with has failed, Alternator, starter motor etc.

The hevac system is still in mothballs as i haven't got round to sorting that, apart from blend motors.

Every job I have undertaken has gone well so they are quite good to work on.

I think if you get a really good one with service history and preferably late M/Y 2000+ with a SERVICE HISTORY they are a very comfortable car.

I have lost faith in my one but I have had 10k trouble free miles from it but it has packed up on me recently possibly through my lack of maintenance.

I may have bought a lemon so have been a bit unlucky, if you are a keen and competent spanner man with time, serious tools and patience then go ahead.

Would I have gone into P38 ownership knowing what I know now............. hand on heart
probably not.

But it was a great vehicle to be in during some fearsome winter storms on the way from London to Cornwall

So in answer to your question from my experience quite bad

Good luck whatever you decide

listerdiesel said:

Been tempted by a couple on ebay recently, running a V8 D2 at present.

Assuming post-2000 car, how much of a problem child can they be?

Peter

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I've had my DHSE for 5 years now, lots of niggles but never let me down. Unrivaled comfort and 24 to 30 mpg is not to be sniffed at. Parts are cheap and with diagnostics most thngs are an easy fix.
Personally I wouldn't touch a V8.
Post 2000 cars are best.
Make sure the carpet in the drivers foot well is dry, no leaking O rings or pollen filters and always run the aircon and the electronics are likely to be trouble free.
Airsprings have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles. Old airsprings are the main cause of EAS problems IMO. Overhaul the valve block & compressor, change the dryer and springs and it will most likely be trouble free. having said that I always carry the free RSW EAS software and a Faultmate.
RF receivers are the other major source of problems.

Definitely maintenance maintenance maintenance! Before starting a job, check RAVE or chat to the guys on this site. My Rangie was a wreck when I purchased her, now she is lovely! Not my main car I hasen to add! I wish she was but not sure I will ever Trust her on a long journey!

I have recently bought my first p38 and got a 2000 plate dse.has been looked after and only had a couple of niggles so far which after looking on here were easily sorted for little money.have bought full compressor/valve block rebuild kit and done compressor and valve block when I can get one to rebuild and swap over.going to replace the airbags as well soon as just starting to perish a little bit so easier to do some preventative maintenance than wait for it to break and be peeved off.mine has has a tuning box fitted and goes really well and gets around 30mpg.wish I had got one years ago.

I have had my P38 for for 4 years, when i got her she needed some work. I am not the best of owners, have serviced her twice yet have always fixed what needs fixing. I have had to spend some money on repairs but then that is the case with most cars 14 years old. She drives like a dream, i go from London to West Midlands every few weeks and wouldn't want to drive or be in any other vehicle on the motorway. I am considering selling to upgrade to a newer model, ('10/'11)- on the other hand am also thinking of spending some momey on getting it to 100%. Bottom line, P38 great car. Mine has c150K on the clock and i think i have done about 40K. Great drive.

Thanks again for all the responses, it does give me a much better feel for the possible problems, and the comment about the rustproof nature of the P38 is very useful.

We are looking at a 4.0 Thor engine if possible, as we know that one very well. Might be a touch underpowered according to some reports I have read.

Peter

listerdiesel said:

Thanks again for all the responses, it does give me a much better feel for the possible problems, and the comment about the rustproof nature of the P38 is very useful.

We are looking at a 4.0 Thor engine if possible, as we know that one very well. Might be a touch underpowered according to some reports I have read.

Peter

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Excellent choice

listerdiesel said:

Thanks again for all the responses, it does give me a much better feel for the possible problems, and the comment about the rustproof nature of the P38 is very useful.

We are looking at a 4.0 Thor engine if possible, as we know that one very well. Might be a touch underpowered according to some reports I have read.

Peter

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Why not a 4.6 thor, better power, stronger gearbox, generally better spec (Vogue etc) & very little in the way of MPG (dont start Wammers ).

martynv8 said:

Why not a 4.6 thor, better power, stronger gearbox, generally better spec (Vogue etc) & very little in the way of MPG (dont start Wammers ).

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I agree, if the OP is going V8 the 4.6 is the better choice just for the stronger gearbox, especially if towing.

martynv8 said:

Why not a 4.6 thor, better power, stronger gearbox, generally better spec (Vogue etc) & very little in the way of MPG (dont start Wammers ).

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Well a 4.6 with a slipped liner on a recovery truck uses less fuel than a 4.0 litre being driven on the road that's for sure.

i just bought a 4.6 off the forum.

Very cheap and aware of a few problems. Ok the EAS failed on the way home (not bothered to be fair as I would have overhauled it anyway)

Love it, Ive ordered most of the bits I "think" I need to sort the suspension out but as I am not in a rush to get it on the road I want to learn all about it as I go.

When I showed the mrs the pics first she was a bit dubious, but now she has sat in it, she loves it!

vilguy said:

i just bought a 4.6 off the forum.

Very cheap and aware of a few problems. Ok the EAS failed on the way home (not bothered to be fair as I would have overhauled it anyway)

Love it, Ive ordered most of the bits I "think" I need to sort the suspension out but as I am not in a rush to get it on the road I want to learn all about it as I go.

When I showed the mrs the pics first she was a bit dubious, but now she has sat in it, she loves it!

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You will be ok when the Jocks get independence and reintroduce Jock money. 12 Jock pounds to an English pound and petrol because they have control of their oil fields will be two bawbees an gallon. Utopia.

Snigger


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