P38A Hot Start & Timeing

When we was mucking about with the bits on the engine yesterday, we was talking about my hot-start, and I was thinking if its just a timing issue, how difficult is it to re-adjust the timing so I can get rid of the hot-start, if its a piddle then I will try and do it, if not, I will keep it as is

@wammers is your man for that.
As far as I can remember from stuff I've read on here, you need some special tools and it could be that your chain is stretched.
Like I say, that is only from what I have read on here. I suspect with the right tools and knowledge, it's not that bad a job as wammers suggested that an fip change is about half a days work.

The chain stretch is the killer but I believe starter motor speed and other issues come into play. Put it all together and it is too much for the motor to start. So, changing the chain and pulleys might fix it for a while but ideally you'd get your friend Max to put a remapped chip in that allows the car to "start" at lower revs. He might be able to get the lift pump to run a bit more too like the later models.

Sounds easy enough when you read manual
Slacken all fuel pipe unions.
DTI with adapter on back of pump. Flywheel locked with pin.
Set DTI to settings in manual.
Pump bolts slackened off and rotate till DTI reads settings in manual.
Tighten pump bolts and remove locking pins and DTI and replace cover screws and plugs.
Bleed system by cranking. Might start. Tighten fuel unions

I bought all the tools but need to find time to grow a set and give it a go

Hairyasswelder said:

Sounds easy enough when you read manual
Slacken all fuel pipe unions.
DTI with adapter on back of pump. Flywheel locked with pin.
Set DTI to settings in manual.
Pump bolts slackened off and rotate till DTI reads settings in manual.
Tighten pump bolts and remove locking pins and DTI and replace cover screws and plugs.
Bleed system by cranking. Might start. Tighten fuel unions

I bought all the tools but need to find time to grow a set and give it a go

Click to expand...

I've bought all the tools and now I've got the cam locking tool in the right place I will retime the fip ready for the head coming back from pressure testing. It's all the bits that have to be taken off to gain access that's a pain. In my case its a clear run

Hairyasswelder said:

Sounds easy enough when you read manual
Slacken all fuel pipe unions.
DTI with adapter on back of pump. Flywheel locked with pin.
Set DTI to settings in manual.
Pump bolts slackened off and rotate till DTI reads settings in manual.
Tighten pump bolts and remove locking pins and DTI and replace cover screws and plugs.
Bleed system by cranking. Might start. Tighten fuel unions

I bought all the tools but need to find time to grow a set and give it a go

Click to expand...

It isn't bad but clean all threads and bolts before refitting. That aluminium cover is soft as butter even with the correct torque.

Hairyasswelder said:

Sounds easy enough when you read manual
Slacken all fuel pipe unions.
DTI with adapter on back of pump. Flywheel locked with pin.
Set DTI to settings in manual.
Pump bolts slackened off and rotate till DTI reads settings in manual.
Tighten pump bolts and remove locking pins and DTI and replace cover screws and plugs.
Bleed system by cranking. Might start. Tighten fuel unions

I bought all the tools but need to find time to grow a set and give it a go

Click to expand...

Me too! It sounds easy but there are a couple of bits that I can't fully visualise or find so when I do it I'll do it with an experienced chap or chapess on hand

Mukiwa said:

Me too! It sounds easy but there are a couple of bits that I can't fully visualise or find so when I do it I'll do it with an experienced chap or chapess on hand

Click to expand...

It might move slightly as you tighten. Measure thrice before reassembly!