holding high revs please help

hello
my freelander is holding the revs (1800/2000)after changing gear for a few seconds longer then it should making the car jolt forward , more so in first to second gear change, i have replaced the air meter and the pedometer thing on the pedal
no fault lights are showing and have placed it in gear with hand brake on to see if its the clutch and it stalls so dont think its that

any idea's?????

Deisel? Petrol? Year?

tinytdi said:

Deisel? Petrol? Year?

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hello

sorry its a 98 diesel


cheers

Hmm....same as Tiny then.

Let me see....

so you change gear and the engine revvs when you dip the clutch?

tinytdi said:

Hmm....same as Tiny then.

Let me see....

so you change gear and the engine revvs when you dip the clutch?

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hello

had several probs recently it started with the car revving itself whilst standing upto 1500 then dropping, and whilst driving it would serge when the clutch was pressed and the engine light flickered
i unplugged the maf and that stopped for a while i ordered a new one but before i had fitted it noticed a oil leak so had that done.

put the new maf on and went for a drive, then noticed whilst going from 1st to second seems to hold the revs high once the throttle pedal is released, whilst i depress the clutch. dont seem to have the serging and light flicker.

when i removed the old maf the filter/cage on one side was missing and a diode/wire thing was missing of the bosch maf???

was thinking could it be the ecu????


cheers dean

Thinking ECU myself. The L series does have a habit of swallowing the small resistors on the MAF! To be honest the MAF should not make much difference as they do not effect things like they do on the TD4. I would be tempted to check there are no oil leaks around the turbo 1st though. It could be the early warning signs of "screaming death" where the engine starts fuelling itself from the sump via the turbo oil seals. Using more oil than normal? An induction leak is also possible. Get the WD40 out and spray around the inlet manifold and see if the engine tone changes. Failing that I would suspect the ECU. Let me know how you get on and good luck!

did you recalibrate the throttle potentiometer when you changed it ?

tinytdi said:

Thinking ECU myself. The L series does have a habit of swallowing the small resistors on the MAF! To be honest the MAF should not make much difference as they do not effect things like they do on the TD4. I would be tempted to check there are no oil leaks around the turbo 1st though. It could be the early warning signs of "screaming death" where the engine starts fuelling itself from the sump via the turbo oil seals. Using more oil than normal? An induction leak is also possible. Get the WD40 out and spray around the inlet manifold and see if the engine tone changes. Failing that I would suspect the ECU. Let me know how you get on and good luck!

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cheers for that, will have a look for leaks tomo cant really say about using more oil as it had a leak from the oilcooler so was dripping like a tap when warm and only done about 40 miles since having that fixed as didnt want to use it whilst reving high

will give it a good going over tomo

i do have some spares so will just swap them over if looks a bit naff

cheers dean

Optimus Prime said:

did you recalibrate the throttle potentiometer when you changed it ?

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hello

no as it was running the same i swopped it back but out of interest for ref how do you do that??

cheers

tinytdi said:

Thinking ECU myself. The L series does have a habit of swallowing the small resistors on the MAF! To be honest the MAF should not make much difference as they do not effect things like they do on the TD4. I would be tempted to check there are no oil leaks around the turbo 1st though. It could be the early warning signs of "screaming death" where the engine starts fuelling itself from the sump via the turbo oil seals. Using more oil than normal? An induction leak is also possible. Get the WD40 out and spray around the inlet manifold and see if the engine tone changes. Failing that I would suspect the ECU. Let me know how you get on and good luck!

Click to expand...

hello

sorry its taken so long but only just had chance to get a look at it

turbo seems ok no loss of oil, done the wd40 test cant really hear any tone change but i used an after market maf and when warm the engine started to self rev upto 1500 again so put a bosch one back on and it seems to have rid that problem but still seems to hold revs for longer then normal. again i have tried to see if clutch slipping but seems ok, but if that was the prob it wouldnt self rev or hold the revs would it???

cheers dean