HGF - yay!

Colthebrummie said:

They usually start making a noise when they are on the way out and play can be felt in the shaft. Did you measure how much coolant you put back in?

Col

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I didn’t measure exactly, would have been about 12 litres though.

Did you top it up after you started it?

Col

There's a trick with coolant/bleeding air. 1. premix correct volume and pour in 50-60% slowly to allow air to rise [heater matrix open/on hot], 2. allow to settle/burp, 3. top up with remainder, then run engine with radiator plug off to allow any trapped air to release. 4. keep running til engine properly hot, then turn off.

Colthebrummie said:

Did you top it up after you started it?

Col

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No, bunged it all in in one hit. I did it slowly through the rad filler with a heater box hose removed at one end to expel air. I think I’ve done something wrong filling it up!

v8250 said:

There's a trick with coolant/bleeding air. 1. premix correct volume and pour in 50-60% slowly to allow air to rise [heater matrix open/on hot], 2. allow to settle/burp, 3. top up with remainder, then run engine with radiator plug off to allow any trapped air to release. 4. keep running til engine properly hot, then turn off.

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A few squeezes on the bottom hose forces water through the matrix if needed

Have you checkedthe coolant level since starting it?

Col

v8250 said:

There's a trick with coolant/bleeding air. 1. premix correct volume and pour in 50-60% slowly to allow air to rise [heater matrix open/on hot], 2. allow to settle/burp, 3. top up with remainder, then run engine with radiator plug off to allow any trapped air to release. 4. keep running til engine properly hot, then turn off.

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Heater matrix is always open because there is no valve. ie- water at engine temperature is always running through it.

Thanks @Flossie , sat typing whilst thwacking forehead and raising eyes to ceiling. Thinking of the V8 re' heater valve. Off now to sit in the dumbo corner...

Colthebrummie said:

Have you checkedthe coolant level since starting it?

Col

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Yep, it’s where I filled it to.
I’ve never had it get so hot so quickly before.

Did you flush/reverse flush through both radiator and matrix before filling? I'd be tempted to fully drain. Reconnect hoses to matrix after flushing, same with radiator...and then start a slow refill.

Or, drive it round the block a couple of times to release any air...no, don't do this

v8250 said:

Did you flush/reverse flush through both radiator and matrix before filling? I'd be tempted to fully drain. Reconnect hoses to matrix after flushing, same with radiator...and then start a slow refill.

Or, drive it round the block a couple of times to release any air...no, don't do this

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None of the above!
Is there actually a proper, written-down filling method? There seems to be all sorts of advice and methods out there, but is there one that can be followed step-by-step to achieve no air locks?

See nine posts above...

v8250 said:

See nine posts above...

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Oh yeah,I even liked that.
What would you say the simplest way of expelling air is without draining down the system again?

If an engine has a trapped air pocket with equalised pressure either side, it won't move and causes over-pressurisation. Many engines are buggers for this, not only Land Rovers...AM DB4,5 & 6's series can be absolute buggers. The only real way is to drain, complete a really good reverse flushing of heater matrix, radiator and engine...reconnect the hoses and and slowly refill. It's actually quite good fun knowing the system's been thoroughly flushed, all crud out...and it's only an hour's tinkering

Well, she was running so smoothly for the past two days, better than ever in fact. Then… chuff chuff chuff chuff, aaarrghhh ffs!!! ‘Fortunately’, it’s not the head gasket again, that pesky stuck injector 4 is now blowing gas! I can’t be ar*ed trying to fix it, I’m getting a mobile mechanic out and he can sweat his balls off trying to free it.
Anyone want to buy a well-loved OneTen? One careful owner, then plenty of numpty owners after that.

bluedog333 said:

Well, she was running so smoothly for the past two days, better than ever in fact. Then… chuff chuff chuff chuff, aaarrghhh ffs!!! ‘Fortunately’, it’s not the head gasket again, that pesky stuck injector 4 is now blowing gas! I can’t be ar*ed trying to fix it, I’m getting a mobile mechanic out and he can sweat his balls off trying to free it.
Anyone want to buy a well-loved OneTen? One careful owner, then plenty of numpty owners after that.

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So it's all good then apart from the injector?
Slide hammer will/should/ probably get it out.

Flossie said:

So it's all good then apart from the injector?
Slide hammer will/should/ probably get it out.

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Yes, runs lovely. Temperature seems to have returned to normal after I took the thermostat out for a second test, must have released the airlock. I’ve ordered a Durite gauge for future reassurance.
Now just the blow-by on the stuck injector. Maybe the gas and oil being forced past the injector may have freed it up a bit? I don’t have a slide-hammer, I probably should get one. I might have another crack at getting the injector out tomorrow.
My heart sank when I heard the chuffing, exactly the same noise as when the head gasket failed.

That injector may come it once warm

If you fit 300 head gasket the worng way around it squrts oil out, sadly I can confirm this from first hand experience!

bluedog333 said:

Yes, runs lovely. Temperature seems to have returned to normal after I took the thermostat out for a second test, must have released the airlock. I’ve ordered a Durite gauge for future reassurance.
Now just the blow-by on the stuck injector. Maybe the gas and oil being forced past the injector may have freed it up a bit? I don’t have a slide-hammer, I probably should get one. I might have another crack at getting the injector out tomorrow.
My heart sank when I heard the chuffing, exactly the same noise as when the head gasket failed.

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Loosen inj clamp nut and take her for a drive to see if it moves some more, if you do get it out you want one of them cheap inj seat cutter sets off of ebay about 15 quid, you dont cut the seat as such just scrape it clean, they do a decent job for the money.
Check new scopper eal washer is soft, if not anneall it before fitting.

I had a stuck no4 inj on a 200 and drove the car for weeks before it started to chuff/loose with a loose clamp nut, then with some lube I got the bloody thing out, it was a struggle and I had spent hours on the thing.