HEVAC Heat, hot or ....hot

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Ridesafe

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Ok before I gets me ass ripped, yes I did a search but after hours of boggle-eyed reading it's doing my head in!! :doh:

P38 4.0SE 98.

Driver/Offside blows very cold on Low, warm but not Hot set at highest temp.
Passenger/Nearside blows warm on ALL settings, gets HOT if set at LOW.

Is this likely to be air-lock, blend motor stuck or nakad, the self-tapping screw option that's been mentioned??

Warranty out now so at my cost now ...... Any (sensible :rolleyes:) suggestions please folks??
 
have you tried cycling - not on a bike before you start - through all the air options mine was odd for a while but I cycled through all the options for about a dozen times before they worked and the book symbol disappeared try wammers ona pm he knows about this
 
Yep, tried various scenarios, heat, cold, directional settings GRRRRRRR!

Most of the posts/good ideas I've seen on this have been from Wammers (although others as well) ....... input please folks, I really don't have much of either time nor money to use at the mo! :eek:
 
The Valeo hevac on P38's is a fussy git,best diagnosed in live data on Testbook - anything else is guessing.Even the ecu can do silly things when telling the world all is well.From your description its unlikely the distribution flap sticking as that usually puts up the book symbol on boot up and then wont direct the airflow.
I should have kept my gob shut about the self tapping screw fix - could have made a packet out of it.....
 
eightinavee said:
The Valeo hevac on P38's is a fussy git,best diagnosed in live data on Testbook - anything else is guessing.Even the ecu can do silly things when telling the world all is well.From your description its unlikely the distribution flap sticking as that usually puts up the book symbol on boot up and then wont direct the airflow.
I should have kept my gob shut about the self tapping screw fix - could have made a packet out of it.....
Click to expand...

yeah but then you would be worried about how to spend it all:p:p:p:p
 
How to spend it all - no problem,farm in Devon and a large barn full of trials bikes... Sorted ;)
On the hevac front,the heater box is shrunk and stiff when cold,often this is when the flaps cant move,also connections to the heater core temp sensor and evap temp sensor seem to vary in reliability with temp.
As I said live data is the way to go.
 
Thanks for the replies peeps; there was a small airlock in the cooling system, pushed that through, then spent a while going through various cycles in heat and low modes on both sides. Checked and got just a lil more air through then let the whole thing stand.
Three hours later, it's heating and cooling both sides like a good 'un.

I'll never know if down to air-lock, albeit not much in there, or sticky flaps (if you'll excuse the phrase! :p), or maybe a bit o' both, but happy all's good at the mo! :):)
 
Indeed, or so it appears at the mo......fingers crossed!!!!

Thank fcuk for landyzone.........crackin ere with good banter n great help advice! ;)
 
Ta for the PM's, I'll give you a shout tomorrow during the day - its going to be at least 2 weeks before I can look at it though - up to me eyeballs in work.:)
 
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