Help with classic

Hello My Dad has a 93 classic 3.9efi, all his windows have packed in this morning, fronts and backs, he has checked the fuses and they are all fine, any ideas which relays he should check, and where they are likley to be...?

Also his blower has stopped working aswell, however this hasnt been working for a few weeks, any ideas where the resister pack is,

If any of these are common faults, links to helpful threads will be appreicated.

cheers

Oliver

See the attached page from the manual for the 1988 model. Hope this helps

I have just done my resistor pack and replaced it with a new type "supposedly" a better upgrade.

Currently my dash is nearly all off to get into the heater matrix and try replace the blower.

I now have my 3 heater settings operational again but the blower sounds like a chopper hovering

See the story here

RRC heater/resistor replacement write up? - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum


Sorry mods for putting a link to another forum, I couldn't find one here

This may be down to a failure of one of the fuseable links.
They are grouped in a nylon "armour type" sleeve linked from the positive post on the battery. You will have to unbolt the header tank and move to one side to see them properly.
Then remove sleeve to find approx 8 thick wires within more flexi sleeving, I checked mine by sliding the sleeving back on each wire, feel for the lumpd which is the fuseable link, then with a multimeter one end on ground (-ve) pushed the Positive probe through the insulation into the wire. If a reading then happy days.
With this method I found 1 broken link, the wire had just corroded through!

Good luck.

SSSSSSSnakey

Here's what your looking for if doing the resistor.

It's a very common fault, when the heater blower is on, the resistor heats up, if the vehicle is not traveling it won't get cooled so it fails.

The new part is protected better from this fault.

i did mine too , its a fooker without taking the decker panel off though!

Yip had to take most of the top dash fixings off to enable me to get the hand in and "just" reach the plug, it was the Mrs that managed to re-connect it




The thing I was going to research was what fixings need to be taken off to get the speedo/rev counter control off the dash??

I spliced mine in from the bonnet hinge hole lol

Ahh the third option

Any advice on the speedo coming out to get at my blower?

not sure its there you need to get but if it is I can only say the earlier non rev counter binnicles were held on with m5 ish nuts and bolts through the dash , one in each corner and I just undidn the nuts underneath and tapped them up.

I need to get in at the big feck off black matrix thing that sits under the centre of the dash to replace the blower........... Well at least that's what I think I need to do.

get ur a/c vent tray out first the all your centre console, then ur heater box

Half way there, A/C centre tray out. Top dash nearly off but need to get speedo/rev counter off to get whole dash out?

Centre console = fuse box/heater control facia/?

I'll have a look at the weekend and see what's needing done a bit more

This guy did a good write up on your challenge:

OkieRover.com

I've done all of that already

It's the speedo/rev counter I now need to get off to enable me to get the whole of the dash off and the centre console so I can get in at the blower itself

fun fun fun, you can come and do mine after if you like, it burst just before Christmas :doh:

:dizzy::dizzy::dizzy:




Bet it's a doddle !,

hi all, thanks for the help so far, window problem has been fixed, there was a block of fuses under the passenger seat, tucked under the carpet, with a blown 10amp fuse, replaced fuse and properly secured the block and windows now working.

but still no blower, won't work on any settings I, II, III, (due to this am i right to discount a knackered resister pack as at fault, as it should work on III with the resister pack disconnected, shouldn't it). Of interest when the blower is switched on the engine note changes, as if it is labouring the engine, giving more weight to a failed blower motor.

If it is the blower motor, taking into account we cannot yet locate the resister pack as it isn't anywhere its meant to be, is removing the decker panel a good option to gain access without removing the dash to get to blower/resister pack etc...?