HELP with 300 tdi timing belt what did i do wrong

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

Please can anyone help. Replaced timing belt, idler and tensioner in Feb 16 since then did about 2k miles. Yesterday engine stalled at 30 mph and wouldn't restart. Obvious no compression so suspected-ed belt.
Upon strip down i found this devastation. Seems front lip of crankshaft gear has worn or sheared and been chewing the belt up to about 1/2 its width before it finally let go yesterday.
I think i did everything by the book when i changed the old belt in Feb, which incidentally seemed fine, but now i am just wondering what i did wrong. I can replace everything and start again, hopefully only with some replacement push rods? But just reluctant to do so in case i am making a big mistake.
Thanks Jon

Marmaduke · Sep 25, 2016

Did you use new tensioner pulleys?

Marmaduke · Sep 25, 2016

Next time before you put the timing case back on run the engine for a couple of minutes just to make sure everything is lined up. It won't harm anything with a cold engine. If it's any consolation mine did similar after I over tightened the belt.

Paul D · Sep 25, 2016

Ooh it's broke, that is ..

What @Marmaduke said ..

Especially tightening the belt .. 'old style' tensioner you could fairly heave on it to tighten 'cos it invariably slipped, or just moved, a little. The new style is much less forgiving, but is way easier to use and consequently more reliable, simply tighten up the belt, then tighten the adjuster bolt, job done!

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

Yes did use a new idler and tensioner. I may have over tensioned the belt as i didn't use the LR method just did the it the feel right way like being able to twist the belt thru 90 degrees on longest length. I had thought i'd not tightened the crankshaft pulley enough but it wasn't loose when i removed it as i had to flip the starter to get it undone. Anyhow 4 bent pushrods and followers seem free so i am hoping theres nothing internally wrong.

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

I didnt replace the crankshaft gear

Marmaduke · Sep 25, 2016

Hopefully lesson learned, most timing belt kits include a new crank gear and tensioners and even Britpart kits come with a dayco belt. When you say followers do you mean the brass seats at the bottom of the pushrods? If so it's head off time

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

i mean the followers under the pushrods all seem free and smooth. i know that sometimes these can break or the seats where the pushrods sit can get damaged. these seem ok but suppose will only tell if these and the valves are ok when i rebuild kits. Hopefully wont need more work, fingers crossed. The rockers were all ok none of these seem damaged but i will check again

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

for tightening the bottom pulley i havent got the locking spanner, any suggestions to do it otherwise. Last time i put it in reverse with diff lock engaged and had someone stand on the brake ?

Disco1BFG · Sep 25, 2016

jon123 said:
for tightening the bottom pulley i havent got the locking spanner, any suggestions to do it otherwise. Last time i put it in reverse with diff lock engaged and had someone stand on the brake ?

I'd buy the proper tools - the full kit is less than £22 on evil bay - like item 201546656163

or the tools you need are £5.50 (!!) - like item 130985746436

IMHO, its not worth putting your gearbox/drivetrain through the stress for £5.50 !!

And I'd also buy the proper tools for tensioning the belt. I paid about £60 for the proper torque wrench for the job NOS off the bay. Does the wheel bearings too!

Turboman · Sep 25, 2016

jon123 said:
for tightening the bottom pulley i havent got the locking spanner, any suggestions to do it otherwise. Last time i put it in reverse with diff lock engaged and had someone stand on the brake ?

Like he says, the proper tools are only a few quid, and reduces chance of error^^^^^^^^^.

It is very important to follow the right procedure with these belts, not doing so will result in incorrect tension and much reduced belt life.

Check it when you are all done. You can do what Marmaduke suggested, or wind the engine over a few rotations in normal direction, then make sure all the timing pins go in again.

neilly · Sep 25, 2016

Disco1BFG said:
I'd buy the proper tools - the full kit is less than £22 on evil bay - like item 201546656163

or the tools you need are £5.50 (!!) - like item 130985746436

IMHO, its not worth putting your gearbox/drivetrain through the stress for £5.50 !!

And I'd also buy the proper tools for tensioning the belt. I paid about £60 for the proper torque wrench for the job NOS off the bay. Does the wheel bearings too!

I do not think he is on about the locking pins, I thin he means the Bag A****d crank locking spanner to tighten up the dog nut. You are not getting one of them for £5.50.

But getting the correct timing belt locking pin kit , is so cheap it is silly not to.

Cheers

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

yeah i have the locking pins used them last time and i think i fitted the belt correctly but possibly overtightened it or didn't tighten up the bottom pulley enough through lack of the crank locking spanner

Marmaduke · Sep 25, 2016

jon123 said:
yeah i have the locking pins used them last time and i think i fitted the belt correctly but possibly overtightened it or didn't tighten up the bottom pulley enough through lack of the crank locking spanner

I have to admit than when I did mine I torqued it up according to haynes manual and then tightened it 90 degrees by using a breaker bar with the wifey stood on the brake pedal

Blackburn · Sep 25, 2016

Was it not the 300 where landrover upgraded the tensioner pulleys and mod was required to case to counter sink a hole for idler ?

300tdi Only Timing belt change up date

1. Tensioner pulley should not have a lip edge to it [modified due to belt edge wear].

2. Crank idler pulley should have a lip on it as part of same modification.

3. Belt tensioning instructions

e) Lightly tighten the tensioner locking screw then back off one full turn.Ensure tensioner is free to move.
f) Using a dial type torque meter with a maximum length of 250 mm apply a torque of 11 Nm with the
torque meter positioned vertically.
g) Tighten the tensioner locking bolt to 45 Nm.
h) Tighten the injection pump pulley fixings to 25 Nm.
i) Remove timing pins.
It is no longer a requirement to rotate the engine and repeat the tensioning procedure.

jon123 · Sep 25, 2016

Ok thanks for the advise. Order the bits so will build it all up again in the week when Paddocks send me the stuff

Marmaduke · Sep 25, 2016

jon123 said:
Ok thanks for the advise. Order the bits so will build it all up again in the week when Paddocks send me the stuff

Good on you

HELP with 300 tdi timing belt what did i do wrong

jon123

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Marmaduke

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Marmaduke

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Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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