help needed

i have a 2000 w defender td5 and i have a proplem with no hot air cuming thro my air vents when it is on tickover but when a start to drive the hot air starts i have changed the water pump and the radiator because it burst i am runing out of things to do does any 1 have any other ideas of what it could be
thanks gareth

lro2006 said:

i have a 2000 w defender td5 and i have a proplem with no hot air cuming thro my air vents when it is on tickover but when a start to drive the hot air starts i have changed the water pump and the radiator because it burst i am runing out of things to do does any 1 have any other ideas of what it could be
thanks gareth

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Thermostat would be the next thing on the list. It's a twin valve thermostat so it has probably gone weak.

i have got one on order orderd it the day is there any thing ealse av been told it may be the head gasket its dne 120000 miles nw thanks any more info would help

lro2006 said:

i have got one on order orderd it the day is there any thing ealse av been told it may be the head gasket its dne 120000 miles nw thanks any more info would help

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Are you losing any coolant? After you have gone for a drive, check around the expansion cap for signs of coolant. The cap could have gone weak which will alow the pressure out.

I have more info but you might not want to hear it.

I had the same thing with my TD5. It's a 1999 which had 128k on it. After a year of fecking about (In that time I changes all the coolant pipes at least once, the thermostat twice, coolant temp sensor 3 times, rad cap twice, Head gasket once, Head pressure tested once, 3 sniff and compression tests) I got fed up and had the head taken off and tested again. It turned out I had 2 cracks in the head. One in the inlet side and one in the fuel rail.

Loosen the bleed nipple on your top hose and watch for air bubbles. If you can see the odd air bubble rearing it's head then start to panic. It's a sign that you may have a cracked head on the inlet side.

I forgot to say, The radiator bursting doesn't look good neither. Do you know why it happened?

steam

fanatic said:

steam

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or by the turbo pressurising the inlet side

My TD5 never really overheated. It just overpressurised and blew hoses, rad caps and thermostats.

i would seriously think about getting it checked over mate mine did the same thing but I lost the turbo, bottom end and cylinder head because it blew the turbo and lost all its oil and cooked. hence my 2002 TD5 92000 has a 60000 2004 TD5 in it...

It wasn't actually me it was the previous owner and luckily it did it a month after he bought it from the garage.

thought i read somewhere that the water didn't circulate through the matrix on tickover , but kicks in at 1500 rpm ? could be remembering wrong , not sure

landrovermilfer said:

thought i read somewhere that the water didn't circulate through the matrix on tickover , but kicks in at 1500 rpm ? could be remembering wrong , not sure

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The thermostat starts opening at 82 degs and is fully open at 95 degs. When the vehicle is on the move and the revs exceed 1500rpm the bypass valve on the thermostat is opened by the pressure created by the water pump.

The idea is that it keeps the heaters hot while just ticking over but the engine cool when on the move. It's also the reason why TD5's take forever to get up to temp in cold weather.

oh i noticed that at 4 o clock this morning thanks for the explaination...

lro2006 said:

i have a 2000 w defender td5 and i have a proplem with no hot air cuming thro my air vents when it is on tickover but when a start to drive the hot air starts i have changed the water pump and the radiator because it burst i am runing out of things to do does any 1 have any other ideas of what it could be
thanks gareth

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Mate don't do anything else everybody I know with one has same problem its a design fault I think. Live with it or uprate heating system especially thermostat