Help me rebuild/ fix my beloved V8

Anybody in the Aberdeen/Aberdeenshire area fancy getting hands greasy? Looking to strip down and rebuild my discovery 1 3.9 v8. Want to check and (if needed) replace my shells, pistons and bearings and install a performamce camshaft, upgrade my valves and tappets.

Had head gasket replaced April 2011 with a composite genuine LR one. New head bolts and exhaust gaskets, valley gasket.

New items fitted in last 12 months.
power steering pump,
water pump.
Water hoses,
10mm HT Leads
Iridium LPG plugs
K&N Air filter
radiator core

Engine flush , Oil and filter change July 2012

Now rattles/ticks on idle and under acceleration which seems to disappear when warm. I also have a vibration on initial start up and then clears after a mile or so.
I want this to be a sweet V8, just needs assistance.

Would require workspace as I had to give my space back to owner for their own project.
Can anyone help? Please

You need to talk to John Eales (JE Developments - UK) as he can at least give you the heads up on what to look out for and he makes a decent cam upgrade that will not propel you into needing new valve gear. He may also have ideas on how to get rid of your start up vibes or at least what may be causing them.

Also get in touch with member 8naV as he is most familiar with how to get the most out of these engines.

Without actually heaing your noises - I cannot claim to be much help personally; sorry.

I've done a little bit of work on mine. Found something like the Crower 50229 cam works well and no need to change valve springs. It's not about high rpm power which it will never achieve in a disco, more about low down power and torque. Says can get gains of 15-20hp i think I went for rhoads lifters and they gave a slight but noticeable difference in low rev pick up, the only down side is they are noisy on idle as the "bleed down". Adjustable pushrods are a good idea as you can set each lifter preload accurately. You can get a 4degree offset cam gear from real steel that will set the cam up perfectly without the hassle of trying to degree it properly. Valves i left standard just cleaned up and re lapped in. While it's apart it's worth matching your inlet ports to the gaskets. Big ends can be replaced just by removing the sump and oil pick up pipe.

Ticking on idle and acceleration could be the engine flush. Mine did it after a flush too, it loosens up all the harmless crud that sits an the edges of the rockers and sends it all through the engine and into the lifters.

Also headman headders from real steal are silly cheap £180 the pair i think!

hope thats not the liner slipping when cold and seating when expanded and warm

Slipped liner scare monger you!!! If anything it would slip when hot when the prit stik holding it warms up!

fett said:

hope thats not the liner slipping when cold and seating when expanded and warm

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Why oh why did they not just 'top-hat' those damned liners at the LR factory to begin with - it would have saved them untold amounts of grief and saved the reputation of an otherwise very decent small 8 cylinder. Talk about penny-wise and pound-foolish!

Wolf

used to be a guy BH engineering up your way not sure if he still operates as his website no worky

dirtydiscov8 said:

Slipped liner scare monger you!!! If anything it would slip when hot when the prit stik holding it warms up!

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yeah but I didnt say headgasket on another thread for that reason and next day the bloke had it tested and it was headgasket so I am hedging all bets now

wolf said:

Why oh why did they not just 'top-hat' those damned liners at the LR factory to begin with - it would have saved them untold amounts of grief and saved the reputation of an otherwise very decent small 8 cylinder. Talk about penny-wise and pound-foolish!

Wolf

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I toatally agree!

If we're hedging bets then i reckon it's possible headgasket failure if not slipped liner if not cam bearings if not worn cam if not blocked cats if not broken rocker shaft if not bent valve....lets just say the little tick on idle that none of us have heard could be anything but is probably nothing

dirtydiscov8 said:

If we're hedging bets then i reckon it's possible headgasket failure if not slipped liner if not cam bearings if not worn cam if not blocked cats if not broken rocker shaft if not bent valve....lets just say the little tick on idle that none of us have heard could be anything but is probably nothing

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Have you oiled the wifes earrings, sorry thats only on golfs:bounce:

Spunka said:

Have you oiled the wifes earrings, sorry thats only on golfs:bounce:

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Bugger i knew i missed something!

What oil have you got in it?

Geezer 1 "hi it makes a funny noise when I let off the throttle"

Fett "slipped liner"

Geezer 2 "hi when I blip the throttle I get a little rattle"

Fett "piston slap"

Geezer 3 "hi my brakes lights work intermittantly"

Fett "head gasket blowing water onto the electrics"

Geezer 4 "hi my car won't start"

Fett "it's ****ed, scrap it"

what are you saying noisy? pmsl

Graham A said:

What oil have you got in it?

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I have semi synthetic 15/40

I run all my V8s on 20/50 and have never had a problem, it might be worth giving it a go.

Graham A said:

I run all my V8s on 20/50 and have never had a problem, it might be worth giving it a go.

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I said to the garage I wanted 20/50 as it was best for the engine but they said they had 15/40 on the approved oil list so they were not prepared to put in 20/50.

kurgan said:

I said to the garage I wanted 20/50 as it was best for the engine but they said they had 15/40 on the approved oil list so they were not prepared to put in 20/50.

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Rebuilders at RPI (UK) state these engines run best on 20/50 - regular or semi-synth but not full synth.

Wolf

20/50 mineral, accept no other grade, so take it back to the garage and insist they take out the oil which is 'damaging your engine' !

****s sake I hate it when modern data forgets the age of the thing!