L322 Help I think I've bought myself a bag of trouble :(

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I don't know how your charger works, but if it's not 'smart' then if you're battery is 12.6v or less then I'd do at least an hour on bulk charge. It should get up to around 14.5v then cut out, then go into a slower trickle charger to top it off, which can take a few hours to reach 14.5v again
 
So bit of extra information

It played up first thing with the usual fault messages but this time it would not shift out of first gear

Pulled over and restarted and it all cleared, it's played up a couple of times today

But the weird thing was I sat in Asda car park for an hour watching tv with ac running while she shopped (engine running) When I went to pull off it pinged all the error messages up!

Going to put the battery on charge as recommended and see what happens
 
kermit_rr said:
I don't know how your charger works, but if it's not 'smart' then if you're battery is 12.6v or less then I'd do at least an hour on bulk charge. It should get up to around 14.5v then cut out, then go into a slower trickle charger to top it off, which can take a few hours to reach 14.5v again
Click to expand...
Thanks will try that
 
paulh71 said:
Sorry mate didn't mean to cause offence, I was only fingers crossed he's around as lots of people go away for bank holiday
Click to expand...
No offence caused. :) He'll show when he shows and we will all be more knowledgeable for it ;)
Have you managed to find his previous posts yet? If nothing else it will pass the time :D
 
biketeacherdave said:
Have you checked your battery volts and chargeing volts yet with a metre ?. Where about are you in the country ??
Tv on and aircon will kill a battery so where getting somewhere
Click to expand...
I'd have hoped the garage had done the check
My multimeter is on my boat and the tide isn't in so will pop down tomorrow lunch to get and test the volts
 
paulh71 said:
I'd have hoped the garage had done the check
My multimeter is on my boat and the tide isn't in so will pop down tomorrow lunch to get and test the volts
Click to expand...

No offence to the garage but i bought my full fat with a garage diag blown engine.....it was air locked.

Best check it ur self to be sure no harm in it. Its defo electrical thats why all the random faults
 
Another update

Went to drive her today to go get my multimeter off the boat

Within a minute all the fault codes again
Stopped and turned off and the it wouldn’t start
It’s all comes on radio nav etc but turn the key and nothing

Had my cheap Lidl battery tester and the bat is fully charged

So now walking back scratching my head

Ideas guys
 
Another update

Took other key and tried that and presto it works and so does my main key!

I'm realy lost now but at least I can get it to the garage Tuesday

Looks like it's a multitude of errors the ignition being one

Been .in touch with the guy I bought it off and he's not interested, I wonder what the legalities of him seeing it knowing it was broken
 
Ignition switch is an easy swop out i did mine recently for intermitent no start....turned out not to be the cause so stripped my starter out and replaced the solonoid contacts and been good as gold ever since
20190412_152514.jpg
 
2008 is a bit modern for me - but the golden rules and common sense are where to start.

Volts, volts and more volts.....a weak battery - even if a tester shows it as fully charged, once a load (and the L322 applies a metric f**k-ton of load) is applied, this can drag voltage down dramatically....I would advise getting it propoerly shunt or drop tested and gettign a read out. - Never underestimate the power required for these vehicles!

I think the 2008 uses the key in the dash position, rather than the earlier key in the centre console, and is less prone to ignition switch (not the key barrel, but the switch behind) problems, but is still not 'rare' just not as common as on the earlier vehicles. So, I would be looking at that with a fine tooth comb.

So, CANbus issues - if one of the ECUs on the CAN 'sticks' this will drag the CAN down.....the way it works is the CAN uses a high and a low signal to send data (like morse code) on a twisted pair of wires. The data is passed in turn along the line, so the first ECU sends a data packet, this is received by the second ECU in the line...it checkes to see if the data is for them or of use to them, if it isn't it ignores it, but passes it down the line to the next ECU....and the process starts again....if the receiving ECU hiccups and the CAN is left in either a high or low state, no other data packets can be sent along the line as it is stuck in a high (or low) state preventing the ECU wanting to send the data from switching he line high to low etc etc....The only way to figure it out without restarting the ECUs using dealer diagnostics, is to systematically unplug each ECU on the CAN in turn and clearing the faults in the remaining ECUs and seeing if the fault comes back - if it does, try the next ECU and then the next until the offending ECU is found and can be either replaced or the CAN fault removed.

The trouble with the CAN is when one ECU goes down, the others go into fault too displaying CANbus fault and not being more helpful than that.

Transmission issues could be the Transfer Box shift motor switch pack.....but whilst it is a relatively common issue, I am not 100% sure it is the fault in your case.....I will have to read your posts a little more in depth - I have to begin getting the kids to bed now, but will have a re-read later once they have gone to sleep.
 
Saint.V8 said:
2008 is a bit modern for me - but the golden rules and common sense are where to start.

Volts, volts and more volts.....a weak battery - even if a tester shows it as fully charged, once a load (and the L322 applies a metric f**k-ton of load) is applied, this can drag voltage down dramatically....I would advise getting it propoerly shunt or drop tested and gettign a read out. - Never underestimate the power required for these vehicles!

I think the 2008 uses the key in the dash position, rather than the earlier key in the centre console, and is less prone to ignition switch (not the key barrel, but the switch behind) problems, but is still not 'rare' just not as common as on the earlier vehicles. So, I would be looking at that with a fine tooth comb.

So, CANbus issues - if one of the ECUs on the CAN 'sticks' this will drag the CAN down.....the way it works is the CAN uses a high and a low signal to send data (like morse code) on a twisted pair of wires. The data is passed in turn along the line, so the first ECU sends a data packet, this is received by the second ECU in the line...it checkes to see if the data is for them or of use to them, if it isn't it ignores it, but passes it down the line to the next ECU....and the process starts again....if the receiving ECU hiccups and the CAN is left in either a high or low state, no other data packets can be sent along the line as it is stuck in a high (or low) state preventing the ECU wanting to send the data from switching he line high to low etc etc....The only way to figure it out without restarting the ECUs using dealer diagnostics, is to systematically unplug each ECU on the CAN in turn and clearing the faults in the remaining ECUs and seeing if the fault comes back - if it does, try the next ECU and then the next until the offending ECU is found and can be either replaced or the CAN fault removed.

The trouble with the CAN is when one ECU goes down, the others go into fault too displaying CANbus fault and not being more helpful than that.

Transmission issues could be the Transfer Box shift motor switch pack.....but whilst it is a relatively common issue, I am not 100% sure it is the fault in your case.....I will have to read your posts a little more in depth - I have to begin getting the kids to bed now, but will have a re-read later once they have gone to sleep.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Saint

Thanks for the in depth reply I do realy appreciate it as this is driving me bonkers trying to work it out

I have a brand new battery fully charged to 13.7 volts, I'm still to check my alternator output as multimeter is on my boat ( I'll get it tomorrow and take a reading)

Checking the ecus sounds a little above my skill level and I a be scared I would make things worse

Would a decent auto electrician be able to check them out?

Kind regards

Paul
 
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