help exhaust gasket

Hi need some advise please, my exhaust is blowing at the gasket mounting bewteen the end of the manifold and the down pipe Y section of my Range Rover. Have been quoted 230 to fix, but think I can do it myself..

Have ordered a new exhaust section from Paddocks, and gaskets,

The problem is one of the threaded bolt has broken off in the end section of the manifold down pipe (drivers side), there are three bolts two are fine the other has snapped due to rust...

Has anyone drilled this bolt out and just used an normal nut and bolt through the drilled hole when bolting it all back together ???

Or will I have to re-thread the drilled out hole to make a better seal?

Appreciate your comments

Duncan

The studs are M10 and readily available from motor factors, be sure to get brass nuts if you can. No reason why you could not fit a nut and bolt, as long as you can access the head to stop it turning with a spanner. I would use M10 stainless steel as they will not rust.

As Irish says. But putting a little copperslip grease on exhaust studs will ensure the nuts can be removed easily any time later.

Many thanks Guys, I appreciate the advise, a job for Saturday. Is there a nack to getting the studs out of the exhaust manifold down pipe? so I can replace all 6 with stainless steel studs. I was going to try mole grips?? cheers duncan

If you can get stainless studs, that's great. The originals are high tensile..can't remember the length though.
Ideally, use two M10 nuts locked together tightly on the stud, put the spanner on the upper nut and wind it out. Dose it with Plus Gas or a good penetrating oil first and leave it overnight to soak before having a go at it. WD40 will be a waste of time.
If you want to get the broken stud out, use a 10.5 mm drill through the hole in the flange..this will centralise the drill on the broken stud, and "Dimple it". Then use a pilot drill around 4mm dia and drill through the stud, follow this up with a 8.5mm drill, this will leave just the shell of the stud thread intact and the remnants can be cleared by running a M10 tap up the hole. Use either a taper or second cut tap.
Due to the extremes of heat and cold causing the stud to seize, it's unlikely you would have any success with a stud extractor.
Mole type grips are unlikely to have the grip to remove the other studs as the are very likely to be also seized. you could also use a "Knurled wheel" type extractor which is used with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet or a pair of small Stillsons..depends on access at the end of the day.:behindsofa:

PS Dont forget new flange gaskets and exhaust assembly paste for the rebuild.

And copper grease as Wammers says !!!!

You are a star IrishRover thanks very much for your time and your valuable advise.

Also remember that if you do use stainless steel studs they have far less tensional strength than the HT originals. So don't over torque them.

Thanks Wammers, I think I will try to draw out the snapped stud enough to still use it and see how I go....thanks once again for your help and advise. cheers duncan