HELP - Chassis and bulkhead don't fit!

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J

Jon

Guest
So after absolutely months of slow (but steady) progress, I've tried to fit
the bulkhead tonight, and the bolt holes don't align. The bulkhead appears
to be 3/8" (or so) wider than the chassis.
The chassis is a new (well, about three years old) Richard's chassis and the
bulkhead is an ex-army surplus one - I've disposed of the old chassis and
bulkhead and have no 'factory' measurements or originals to compare to so
I'm totally stuck.....
Everything looks straight...
Open to any and all suggestions........
Thanks,
Jon - SWB SIII


 
Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> So after absolutely months of slow (but steady) progress, I've tried
> to fit the bulkhead tonight, and the bolt holes don't align. The
> bulkhead appears to be 3/8" (or so) wider than the chassis.
> The chassis is a new (well, about three years old) Richard's chassis
> and the bulkhead is an ex-army surplus one - I've disposed of the old
> chassis and bulkhead and have no 'factory' measurements or originals
> to compare to so I'm totally stuck.....
> Everything looks straight...
> Open to any and all suggestions........
> Thanks,
> Jon - SWB SIII

First thoughts, cut off the body item which is spot welded to the bottom of
the bulkhead and reposition equally both sides til it fits.

I'm sure that the mounts are cuttable and reweldable without actually
frigging around with the door pillars assuming your door pillars are good to
start with.... if you do go this way you may need to redrill the holes for
the sill mounts too.

All most odd though... Richards have a good reputation as far as I'm aware,
or perhaphs most of us here are too busy bodging patches on so we wouldn't
know... h'mmm.


Lee D


 
>
> First thoughts, cut off the body item which is spot welded to the bottom
> of the bulkhead and reposition equally both sides til it fits.
>
> I'm sure that the mounts are cuttable and reweldable without actually
> frigging around with the door pillars assuming your door pillars are good
> to start with.... if you do go this way you may need to redrill the holes
> for the sill mounts too.
>
> All most odd though... Richards have a good reputation as far as I'm
> aware, or perhaphs most of us here are too busy bodging patches on so we
> wouldn't know... h'mmm.
>
>
> Lee D
Thanks Lee,
The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there anyway to
retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting it flush - would a
flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead is an ex-military, never
fitted item is is in as new condition - having said that there was still a
bit of corrosion in the corner of the footwell. Six months ago I had four
bulkheads and three chassis so I could have determined what was out.
The other thing is I can't weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by new bits!


 
Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> Thanks Lee,
> The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
> anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
> it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
> is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
> having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
> the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
> so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
> weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
> new bits!

I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them out,
could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place. Where
are you?

Lee D


 
Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
 

"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> > Thanks Lee,
> > The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
> > anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
> > it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
> > is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
> > having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
> > the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
> > so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
> > weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
> > new bits!
>
> I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them out,
> could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
Where
> are you?
>
> Lee D
>
>
Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain what
the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards and
ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and never
had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move as
the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out and
if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to fit
either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I can
measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as series
3 and the outriggers are original.

Martin


 
Oily wrote:
> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>
>>>Thanks Lee,
>>>The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>>>anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>>>it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>>>is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>>>having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>>>the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>>>so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>>>weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>>>new bits!
>>
>>I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them out,
>>could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
>
> Where
>
>>are you?
>>
>>Lee D
>>
>>
>
> Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain what
> the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
> measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
> have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
> this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards and
> ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and never
> had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
> outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move as
> the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out and
> if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to fit
> either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I can
> measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as series
> 3 and the outriggers are original.
>
> Martin

Amongst all the wrong dimensions in the 90/110 manuals there's one of
750.9 mm either side of the centre line which sounds about right.
Needless to say I have no idea if the Series dimension was the same.
 
"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
> mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
> You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
they normally a pig to get on?
I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
Thanks,
Jon


 
"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> Thanks Lee,
>> The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>> anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>> it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>> is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>> having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>> the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>> so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>> weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>> new bits!
>
> I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them out,
> could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
> Where are you?
>
> Lee D
I'm in Surrey! (It's still warm down here)


 
"Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> > Thanks Lee,
>> > The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>> > anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>> > it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>> > is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>> > having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>> > the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>> > so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>> > weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>> > new bits!
>>
>> I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them
>> out,
>> could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
> Where
>> are you?
>>
>> Lee D
>>
>>
> Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain what
> the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
> measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
> have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
> this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards and
> ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and
> never
> had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
> outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move
> as
> the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out
> and
> if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to
> fit
> either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I can
> measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as
> series
> 3 and the outriggers are original.
>
> Martin
>
Martin,
Yes - the distance that the bolt holes are apart would be a great help.
I've searched using Google, but there's nothing obvious.
Thanks,
Jon


 
Jon wrote:

> "Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
>>mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
>>You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
>
> I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
> they normally a pig to get on?
> I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
> enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
> Thanks,
> Jon

That's unlikely to work in this case, I think. Don't you have a welded
in crossmember just forward of the relevant outriggers? That'll keep
the chassis rails where they are!
 
"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:p[email protected]...
> Jon wrote:
>
>> "Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
>>>mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
>>>You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
>>
>> I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
>> they normally a pig to get on?
>> I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
>> enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
>> Thanks,
>> Jon
>
> That's unlikely to work in this case, I think. Don't you have a welded in
> crossmember just forward of the relevant outriggers? That'll keep the
> chassis rails where they are!
Yes - The gearbox one - I'd forgot about that!


 
"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oily wrote:
>> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>>
>>>>Thanks Lee,
>>>>The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>>>>anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>>>>it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>>>>is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>>>>having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>>>>the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>>>>so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>>>>weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>>>>new bits!
>>>
>>>I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them
>>>out,
>>>could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
>>
>> Where
>>
>>>are you?
>>>
>>>Lee D
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain what
>> the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
>> measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
>> have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
>> this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards and
>> ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and
>> never
>> had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
>> outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move
>> as
>> the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out
>> and
>> if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to
>> fit
>> either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I
>> can
>> measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as
>> series
>> 3 and the outriggers are original.
>>
>> Martin
>
> Amongst all the wrong dimensions in the 90/110 manuals there's one of
> 750.9 mm either side of the centre line which sounds about right. Needless
> to say I have no idea if the Series dimension was the same.
A defender bulkhead will fit a series vehicle - just need to change the
windscreen mounts. Just to confirm that's 750.9mm from bolt centre to bolt
centre?
Thanks,
Jon


 

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
> > mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
> > You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
> I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
> they normally a pig to get on?
> I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
> enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
> Thanks,
> Jon
>
>
It sounds like the bulkhead holes are too wide if you're talking of
spreading the chassis rails. SPREAD THE CHASSIS RAILS???. Jeez man, pull
the door pillars in, as Tom says with a ratchet strap or summat but don't
spread the chassis,

Martin


 
Jon wrote:

> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Oily wrote:
>>
>>>"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Thanks Lee,
>>>>>The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>>>>>anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>>>>>it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>>>>>is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>>>>>having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>>>>>the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>>>>>so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>>>>>weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>>>>>new bits!
>>>>
>>>>I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them
>>>>out,
>>>>could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
>>>
>>>Where
>>>
>>>
>>>>are you?
>>>>
>>>>Lee D
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain what
>>>the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
>>>measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
>>>have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
>>>this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards and
>>>ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and
>>>never
>>>had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
>>>outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move
>>>as
>>>the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out
>>>and
>>>if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to
>>>fit
>>>either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I
>>>can
>>>measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as
>>>series
>>>3 and the outriggers are original.
>>>
>>>Martin
>>
>>Amongst all the wrong dimensions in the 90/110 manuals there's one of
>>750.9 mm either side of the centre line which sounds about right. Needless
>>to say I have no idea if the Series dimension was the same.
>
> A defender bulkhead will fit a series vehicle - just need to change the
> windscreen mounts. Just to confirm that's 750.9mm from bolt centre to bolt
> centre?
> Thanks,
> Jon

No, twice that 2 x 750.9 = 1501.8 mm. There will a tolerance of about
plus/minus 3 mm on that.

Just don't do anything drastic if yours don't match. The manuals had
so many wrong and mixed up dimensions that I'd be looking for
confirmation from elsewhere.
 
"Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
>> > mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
>> > You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
>> I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
>> they normally a pig to get on?
>> I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
>> enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
>> Thanks,
>> Jon
>>
>>
> It sounds like the bulkhead holes are too wide if you're talking of
> spreading the chassis rails. SPREAD THE CHASSIS RAILS???. Jeez man, pull
> the door pillars in, as Tom says with a ratchet strap or summat but don't
> spread the chassis,
>
> Martin
>
Thanks - point noted. Do I need ratchets or could I use rope and a stick to
twist in tension?
Jon


 
Jon wrote:

> "Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
>>>>mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
>>>>You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
>>>
>>>I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
>>>they normally a pig to get on?
>>>I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread them
>>>enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
>>>Thanks,
>>>Jon
>>>
>>>
>>
>>It sounds like the bulkhead holes are too wide if you're talking of
>>spreading the chassis rails. SPREAD THE CHASSIS RAILS???. Jeez man, pull
>>the door pillars in, as Tom says with a ratchet strap or summat but don't
>>spread the chassis,
>>
>>Martin
>>
>
> Thanks - point noted. Do I need ratchets or could I use rope and a stick to
> twist in tension?
> Jon

That'll do nicely!
 
"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon wrote:
>
>> "Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>>Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
>>>>>mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
>>>>>You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
>>>>
>>>>I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty - are
>>>>they normally a pig to get on?
>>>>I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread
>>>>them
>>>>enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>Jon
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>It sounds like the bulkhead holes are too wide if you're talking of
>>>spreading the chassis rails. SPREAD THE CHASSIS RAILS???. Jeez man, pull
>>>the door pillars in, as Tom says with a ratchet strap or summat but don't
>>>spread the chassis,
>>>
>>>Martin
>>>
>>
>> Thanks - point noted. Do I need ratchets or could I use rope and a stick
>> to twist in tension?
>> Jon
>
> That'll do nicely!
OK - I'll check the dimentions first before trying this new technique to
remove bits of my anatomy....


 

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> "Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > Ive always used the big lever/ratchet strap/ropes+pulleys/lots of
> >> > mates approach to get bulkheads lined up.
> >> > You can twist it a fair bit to get stuff lined up.
> >> I've never fitted one but I've removed a couple without difficulty -
are
> >> they normally a pig to get on?
> >> I thought of using my 30t bottle jack on the chassis rails to spread
them
> >> enough to get the bolt in - any tips for doing this?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Jon
> >>
> >>
> > It sounds like the bulkhead holes are too wide if you're talking of
> > spreading the chassis rails. SPREAD THE CHASSIS RAILS???. Jeez man,
pull
> > the door pillars in, as Tom says with a ratchet strap or summat but
don't
> > spread the chassis,
> >
> > Martin
> >
> Thanks - point noted. Do I need ratchets or could I use rope and a stick
to
> twist in tension?
> Jon
>
>
Might be better with a Hi-Lift jack to pull the door pillars together with a
bit of wood on the outsides to stop damage. You will need one of the longer
ones. I can't see why a good rope and bar wouldn't pull it in that much
though.

Martin


 

"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon wrote:
>
>> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Oily wrote:
>>>
>>>>"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks Lee,
>>>>>>The bulkhead bracket extends about 6" into the pillar - is there
>>>>>>anyway to retfit it after extracting it whole, i.e. without cutting
>>>>>>it flush - would a flush fit weaken the bracket mounts? The bulkhead
>>>>>>is an ex-military, never fitted item is is in as new condition -
>>>>>>having said that there was still a bit of corrosion in the corner of
>>>>>>the footwell. Six months ago I had four bulkheads and three chassis
>>>>>>so I could have determined what was out. The other thing is I can't
>>>>>>weld...... Hence why I'm surrounded by
>>>>>>new bits!
>>>>>
>>>>>I fear it's spot welded in which means finding them and drilling them
>>>>>out,
>>>>>could be a pig to do and would need rewelding back in there new place.
>>>>
>>>>Where
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>are you?
>>>>>
>>>>>Lee D
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Before you start cutting and welding it would be better to ascertain
>>>>what
>>>>the measurements should be. I used to have the bottom bolt centres
>>>>measurements written down in case I repaired a bulkhead off the motor. I
>>>>have also got the workshop manual in front of me now but it doesn't give
>>>>this particular distance, everything else but. I would ring Richards
>>>>and
>>>>ask and also ring Marslands to check, (I've always used Marslands and
>>>>never
>>>>had any problems). I would think it highly unlikely that the bulkhead
>>>>outriggers are wrong but it happens a lot that the door pillars can move
>>>>as
>>>>the welding cools down. 3/8ths of an inch isn't a great deal to be out
>>>>and
>>>>if the chassis measurement is correct I would spring the door pillars to
>>>>fit
>>>>either way as Tom suggests. If you can't find out what it should be, I
>>>>can
>>>>measure my series 2 chassis tomorrow because it should be the same as
>>>>series
>>>>3 and the outriggers are original.
>>>>
>>>>Martin
>>>
>>>Amongst all the wrong dimensions in the 90/110 manuals there's one of
>>>750.9 mm either side of the centre line which sounds about right.
>>>Needless to say I have no idea if the Series dimension was the same.
>>
>> A defender bulkhead will fit a series vehicle - just need to change the
>> windscreen mounts. Just to confirm that's 750.9mm from bolt centre to
>> bolt centre?
>> Thanks,
>> Jon
>
> No, twice that 2 x 750.9 = 1501.8 mm. There will a tolerance of about
> plus/minus 3 mm on that.
>
> Just don't do anything drastic if yours don't match. The manuals had so
> many wrong and mixed up dimensions that I'd be looking for confirmation
> from elsewhere.
OK - the ROM says 1530mm for the rear x-member so 1501.8 sounds about right.
Thanks,
Jon


 
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