HELP 3.9 wont start!!!!!!

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chickenboots84

chickenboots84

New Member
Posts
190
Hi guys. Can anybody help me before I tear my hair out???
Iv'e got a 99 3.9 v8 disco auto with gas. Iv'e searched the forum for this issue but none of the issue describe mine.
The engine is turning over but Iv'e got no spark!! Iv'e got voltage at the coil.
Iv'e replaced..

DIZZY x2
COIL x3
IGNITION MODULE X2
NEW LEADS AND PLUGS

Iv'e tried running a direct cable from the battery - without any luck.
The Disco was running at 60mph then decided to die all of the sudden, hence the initial dizzy & coil swap.
The fuel pump is running with good pressure at the rail too.
 
Re-crimped all the connections and made sure the HT leads are located correctly. I've triple checked, then triple checked the ignition timing again (even if out should at least spark) Really cracking me up now. :mad:
 
You got a genuine dizzy cap and decent rotor arm? Buy a spark tester or make one with some nails, wood and croc clips. Put it in between ht lead and plug. Should jump about 11mm gap between nails.
If you have leccy ign do make sure you ground any loose ht leads doing this or it can fry solid state parts of ign. Do at own risk basically.
You getting 12v at coil? Coil wired backwards?
 
Does it spark if you hold the coil ht lead a few mm off the engine block (with insulated pliers) and turn the engine. It should spark rapidly.
Sounds like you've replaced every ignition component assuming you swapped rotor arm with dizzy.
Is this model year still on hotwire efi (3am or 5am AFM) if so, the ignition is totally separate to the injection and there's not much else to it but ignition switch.

Connect tester between battery neg and coil pos.
Connect tester between battery neg and coil neg.

Voltage should be Max 1 volt below that of battery with ignition on. (Battery should be at least 12v)

I'd check engine earth strap too but it should find a way to ground anyway
 
Hi. Iv'e got 9 volts at the coil with a fully charged battery. I'm not getting any spark at the plugs, I've taken one out and tried (kept plug grounded) I've put an extra earth strap on the engine, even though I had good continuity. why-o-why can't this be as simple as my Defender V8 on SU carbs!!!
 
Forgot to mention... One of the coils got so hot I couldn't hold it. At this point I triple checked the wiring to it and could not find anything a miss.
 
cooltide said:
Does it spark if you hold the coil ht lead a few mm off the engine block (with insulated pliers) and turn the engine. It should spark rapidly.
Sounds like you've replaced every ignition component assuming you swapped rotor arm with dizzy.
Is this model year still on hotwire efi (3am or 5am AFM) if so, the ignition is totally separate to the injection and there's not much else to it but ignition switch.

Connect tester between battery neg and coil pos.
Connect tester between battery neg and coil neg.

Voltage should be Max 1 volt below that of battery with ignition on. (Battery should be at least 12v)

I'd check engine earth strap too but it should find a way to ground anyway
Click to expand...

what do you mean by "hot wire" 3am 5am? I'm more of a defender Guy but got this as a work horse.
 
yeah it's got a ballest resistor on. This is connected to the +
sorry bad wording earlier. One of the coils I tried got too hot to touch.
 
You just threw a curve ball there. Ballast resistor should be on neg side shouldn't it?

Anyone?

These coils are 12v electronic?

Just noticed you have a defender on su carbs. If points ignition, the coils are not a straight swap, they aren't the same voltage
 
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