P38A Heater matrix connections

Just got MOT after replacing track rod and drag link. Pleased (surprised too) to see that emissions are really low - .2 , limit 2.8. Confirms my view that it is a 'green' car. 20 years old and clean(ish) A couple of advisories including a leaking steering box which was an exchange one put on for last year's test..

Anyhoo... the heater pipes were leaking so I thought I would have to change the o rings again. Having had it all opened up I suspect that it is actually a crack in the plastic that the pipes (o rings) go onto. I tightened the screw and it seems to be leaking around the screw itself. Tried fibre washer over the screw etc. Does anyone know what is behind the plastic 'side' of the heater? Is there another way of connecting the pipes?
I've got them disconnected just now (and joined together at the engine side of the bulkhead )
Any advice appreciated!

Most people fit an alternative one off an Audi (shhh!). Does away with the leaky bits once and for all
Good to see you are still about and driving it

Thanks Roller. Yes very much still about and driving it! Took the back seats out at the start of lockdown (no passengers) and so we've now got a real comfy bed goes in the back. Stayed in it a few times after music sessions/parties/**** ups. Put a battery, split charger and inverter in too for creature comforts

I see the Audi one is an option, but I was hoping that I might be able to sort it without taking the whole centre console etc out.
What I need is a view of a RR one out of the vehicle. There seems to be a black plastic side or end to the heater with the socket(s) for the pipes as part of it . I wondered if this comes off, and what is underneath it. Are there pipe tails or something to connect too?

LR adopted the method of cutting a hole behind the inner kick panel drivers side, if they did yours you can reach it through there. Is still tight in there though for normal size hands. If there’s not hole already cut I’d pull the dash try do it once and forever

The end of the heater matrix is a plastic one piece part crimped to the matrix you cant do any thing with it,
changing it is quite a job i have a new one sitting in the loft that i tried to fit with out taking dash out it was a no go with out removing the steering column
i also have an audi rad ready to go in and i will take dash out to do it and renew all the duct seals a the same time.

Thanks Brian, that's what I needed to know!
I think I need to make sure that it is the plastic bit that is leaking, and then I'll try and get an Audi one if it is.
Easier to move the pipes and check again now the hoses are disconnected under the bonnet.
Do you think you have to take out the steering column to fit the Audi one?

I would think yes steering column dropped down and you would have to do some cutting of some off the dash frame work and repair brackets on the frame
it may well be easier to remove dash and service the whole heater unit

Silly question, which particular audi matrix is the right one? I'm sure they aren't all the same

RangeRoller dt said:

Most people fit an alternative one off an Audi (shhh!). Does away with the leaky bits once and for all
Good to see you are still about and driving it

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Thats what I did . Quite a simple straight forward job and cuts out all the leaking O ring problem

plumbfisher said:

Thanks Roller. Yes very much still about and driving it! Took the back seats out at the start of lockdown (no passengers) and so we've now got a real comfy bed goes in the back. Stayed in it a few times after music sessions/parties/**** ups. Put a battery, split charger and inverter in too for creature comforts

I see the Audi one is an option, but I was hoping that I might be able to sort it without taking the whole centre console etc out.
What I need is a view of a RR one out of the vehicle. There seems to be a black plastic side or end to the heater with the socket(s) for the pipes as part of it . I wondered if this comes off, and what is underneath it. Are there pipe tails or something to connect too?

Click to expand...

Got my old one on scrap pile on the allotment, will photo it tomorrow for you if it helps

kermit_rr said:

Silly question, which particular audi matrix is the right one? I'm sure they aren't all the same

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NISSENS 70220 HEAT EXCHANGER INTERIOR HEATING MAN

Here is a new p38 one

kermit_rr said:

Silly question, which particular audi matrix is the right one? I'm sure they aren't all the same

Click to expand...

Actually the one you need is the Nissens 70230, not the 70220. Both will fit, but the 220 has 5/8" connections and the 230 has 3/4" connections. With the 230 you can use 3/4" hose from the core to the engine pipes whereas with the 220 you need adaptors to go from 5/8" to 3/4", so just another complicating factor.

Thanks everyone for your help.
This is a great forum. Often more useful than RAVE!

plumbfisher said:

Thanks everyone for your help.
This is a great forum. Often more useful than RAVE!

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And a lot funnier, sometimes

+1 on the Audi conversion

Marshall8hp said:

Actually the one you need is the Nissens 70230, not the 70220. Both will fit, but the 220 has 5/8" connections and the 230 has 3/4" connections. With the 230 you can use 3/4" hose from the core to the engine pipes whereas with the 220 you need adaptors to go from 5/8" to 3/4", so just another complicating factor.

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Fairy liquid helps slide the 3/4" hose through the bulkhead grommets. Easier with 2 people, one feeding one pulling from the engine bay.

Grrrrrr said:

Fairy liquid helps slide the 3/4" hose through the bulkhead grommets. Easier with 2 people, one feeding one pulling from the engine bay.

Click to expand...

Personally I find a little hair around the hole helps a lot.

Does any modifications need to be made to accept the audi heater matrix? I'm yet to do my o rings but seeing the conversion makes more sense

The heater box needs a little trimming to allow the matrix to fit. Much easier if you take the heater out - I did mine on the bench, and sorted a problem on the flaps at same time. In my case (unlike others), the flaps were not sticking, but the shafts were tight in the housing holes. Drilled them 0.5mm bigger and problem sorted.

It will also need a bracket to hold it in position. Lots of details here: http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/heater-core-replacement-audi/