Heater blowers this time...

Well today I've discovered another thing to put on the to do list...

The heater fan doesn't work though I'm pretty sure it worked the other day but only on the fastest setting. I'm guessing it is either the switch or burnt out resistors (if the Landy is like other cars I've worked on) as fuses are all ok.

Is it easy to get at the heater wiring to check that side? If that is ok is it a PITA to get to the switch itself? Probably if my experience with dashboards is anything to go on

Cheers

Richard

I think, the resistors are atached to the piece that houses the switch/lever. Take the binacle bit off with the guages and then there are i think 2 bolts holding it down. undo these and the unit should come out. either replace the lot, or just the resistors i guess. I changed the unit as i snapped the lever

G

4k wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!

commom prob mine only works on full and so does me mates.but it blows hot wich is the main fing

Hmmm, I had a quick look today but the binnacle didn't want to come off enough. I removed the obvious screws but I could only move it a couple of inches away and not enough to get at the fan speed switch properly. I also had a quick nosy around the heater box itself but couldn't see where the wires go in either.

Are there any easy to checks to see if it is the switch or the motor itself?

Cheers

Richard

Anyone?

if you undo the cable at the heater box end, you can pull the speed lever out from the binnacle end. im sure it will be the resistors over the motor.

G

I was at my local Landy specialist today and I mentioned the heater prob. He reckoned on it being the resistors and told me a bit more. The resistors are actually fitted in the heater box under the bonnet rather than the switch and is basically the box where the wires go in that's pop rivetted on. To change them is a faff as you need to drill them out and access isn't great

He did say there is a way to bypass them so whenever you switch the heater on at any speed it is at full power - anyone done this and if so which wires go where??? I'm freaking freezin at the moment!

Cheers

Richard

"faff"?

mysteryman said:

"faff"?

Click to expand...

it's a technical term

No wonder I didn't understand it then. Just a forester in me cave............

I changed the terminals over that go to the switch, I now have low and high speed.
Now all i need to do is get it hot !

Sean said:

it's a technical term

Click to expand...

for "Pain In The Arse"!

666 george said:

I changed the terminals over that go to the switch, I now have low and high speed.
Now all i need to do is get it hot !

Click to expand...

Hi George, i've got exactly the same problem, no difference in output from the heater vents whether its on '0' or '2'.


Can you tell me what you did in a bit more detail, where is the switch you changed the terminals over on, do you mean the lever on the left of the dash? and how did you get in there, from behind the dash display or did you do as suggested and release the cables under the bonnet and pull the lever out?

Really will appreciate this as its brass monkeys, there is warm air coming out of the vents but theres no way the fan/blower is working....Mark

FIXED!!!

Last week I tested the fuse (think it is 3rd one up from bottom on left hand column) and it was fine, even tested that 12v was there so had ruled this out.

I just went to investigate how to bypass it as I was going to wire a switch directly to fan motor for now. Luckily I decided to double check the fuse and as I moved it then the motor came to life! After all this it was just a dodgy connection in the fuse holder :doh:

Connector cleaned up, fuse replaced, and I now have a working heater, even on both speeds!

Richard