headgasket failure ?

Hi guys just had a look at my other 1.8 freelander today and the expansion tank had like a cloudy dry foam stuck to the side of the tank on the inside also under the oil filler cap there was like a white/black sticky gue substance under it .. could this be the headgasket going ? Temperature guage is normal and stays halfway .. I've drained all the coolant and renewed the fluid also wiping off the filler cap and cleaning out the expansion tank out while I was there .. All filled back up now in the hope I can keep am eye out if the substances appear again . Just wondered what you guys think on what to do next ?

Bump

You could try a pressure test cooling circuit....

Give it a while and If the problem returns after replacing coolant I'd be ordering a head gasket kit.
I ordered one from these guys for my MGF VVC.
ROVER - K-SERIES - UP-RATED MLS HEAD GASKET SET ? VHSK16BNR | eBay
Not this particular item but from the same people. They came highly recommended by trusted MG mobile mechanics on the .org forum

Yes check it is properly bled, clean the cap or replace, make sure it vents, often the oil filler gets crud on it from condensation if it's only doing short journeys.

It's my partners car and she works as a carer so it does do a lot of short stop start journeys .. can anyone point me in the right direction for replacing the headgasket ? Ie step by steps and how hard it is I'm only a diy mechanic I do a lot of work on my own cars myself and allways have so I do have a bit of k owlege and tools but I he never changed a headgasket luckily enough I haven't had one go on me yet ! :scratching_chin:

Tha kyou for your replies though guys.. I do appreciate every one

Like I said, I replaced the headgasket in my MGF by following advice I found on the internet. Spend a few days researching before you even think about it, some good videos on youtube.
Opinion seems to vary on whether you should go for an MLS or Elastomer type. From what I've read the elastomer is more forgiving of any imperfections in the head or the liner heights and should be good for up to 70,000 miles, if you are thinking of using an MLS type you need to have the head off and checked before going that way so the car will be off the road for a few more days. Check out the threads in the MG/Rover.org site as well as here, many people over there say don't skim the head unless it needs it.
While you're at it (unless you know for a fact it was very recently done) replace timing belt, tensioner, water pump and alternator belt, you'll have the belts off anyway.
Some say use new head bolts, others say unless the originals are out of tolerence use them as they will be stronger and less likely to break. I think so long as you source your parts from a reliable supplier (not some fly by night ebay cowboy) the bolts supplied should be fine.
It is very much do-able by a home mechanic over a weekend if you have a good selection of tools such as.

Hex 1/2 inch socket set Bahco S240 Socket Set Square Drive 24 Piece 1/2 in Drive 24pc | eBay This is brilliant for the money if a little short on accessories.

Hex 1/4 inch socket set The Halfords Advanced one is pretty good but the ratchet lets it down. Halfords | Halfords Advanced Professional 27 Piece Metric Socket Set 1/4" This one is brilliant but a bit short on accessories too. Bahco SL25 Piece 1/4in Drive Metric Socket / Bit Set with Ratchet & Case | eBay DON'T even think of starting the job without one or both of these sets.

Impact driver to get the crank shaft bolt out without stressing the head, gearbox etc CLARKE CEW1000 watts ELECTRIC 1/2" IMPACT WRENCH 240 Volts CARRY CASE 6480300 | eBay Not brilliant and not strictly necessary but does the job.

A good torque wrench. I bought a cheap £30 ish draper one and regret it.

Cam pulley locking tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-MG-...493?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a40ec8f85

I think you also need a 1/2" torq socket set for the head bolts but don't quote me on that.

A good straight edge

A breaker bar

When I did mine I took a risk and pre ordered an MLS kit before checking the head and didn't get it skimmed. One year and several thousand miles later I think I got away with it, like you I had no over heating. If I were doing it again on the Freelander I think I would order a Payne Elastomer kit and do the same again but as I said opinions differ.

as above - unless you know WHY the hg died, fitting the wrong type of gasket could very well do nothing to solve the situation, and just end up wasting cash.

MLS is the one to go for if your liners protrude equally.

Elastomer if one or more of the liners are flush with the block.



If a liner is below the deck height, then it needs re-seating - no HG will help you in this situation. As for sources, go to Discount MG Rover Spares for your first stop, plenty of good quality parts stocked.

And as for the head bolts, if they are indeed within spec, you can reuse them. But how many people have a vernier caliper that long? I certainly don't :lol:

If you are getting the fluids mixing? I would think that the liners are OK. Fluids mixing is often the first sign of impending HG failure. Catch it early enough, all you need do is replace the head gasket. I use the latest Payen elastopolymer simply because I know it works, without the possible sealing issues of the MLS gasket. Bolts may be reused if they are still in tolerance. It's better to use the old bolts then cheap replacements.

The problem I and I suspect most first timers have is knowing whether the liners are slightly sunk or not, and knowing the difference between a perfect head and one which is very slightly out. When checking mine I really wasn't sure, which is why if I was doing it again I would just go for the elastomer one. Unless there is some underlying issue it should last the lifetime of most K series on the road.