Freelander 1 Haynes manual question

Hi all, Bit of an odd one this! Does anyone have a Freelander 1 Haynes manual handy, please? My dad's car has just shredded its ancillary drive belt and he's got my Haynes manual, but can't find the section on the belt routing for the TD4. I'm 150 miles away, so if someone could just let me know what page the TD4 belt replacement section is on, I'll call him and tell him!

There is more than one version of the Haynes manual, mine is the Blue 2003 to 2006 version and its on page 1B-9

In the red 1997 to 2002 manual it is page 1B.10 figure 11.15

Thanks guys. He's 83, and really struggles trying to find his way round that!

Make sure he has the correct spanner for the tensioner or he'll hurt himself.

A 15/16 inch AF flat ring spanner is needed with an extension on it to get leverage. Also pack the spanner against the chassis rail with a lump of wood to stop it slipping off.

24mm does fit but can round the edges of the bolt head.

andyfreelandy said:

Make sure he has the correct spanner for the tensioner or he'll hurt himself.

A 15/16 inch AF flat ring spanner is needed with an extension on it to get leverage. Also pack the spanner against the chassis rail with a lump of wood to stop it slipping off.

24mm does fit but can round the edges of the bolt head.

Click to expand...

Nice advice.

andyfreelandy said:

Make sure he has the correct spanner for the tensioner or he'll hurt himself.

A 15/16 inch AF flat ring spanner is needed with an extension on it to get leverage. Also pack the spanner against the chassis rail with a lump of wood to stop it slipping off.

24mm does fit but can round the edges of the bolt head.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I wish I'd never given them the car! I did that belt (Dayco) just before I gave it to him, it's only done about 15,000 miles. However, there's a lot more to this story. You may have seen my other post about starter motors? That's what he originally called me with. Today, he asked a mate to come round and help him get it into the garage to work on, but for some reason, they decided to tow-start it. He let the clutch out in 2nd and almost locked the wheels. When it did start, he drove it into the garage and his mate pointed out the shredded belt on the undertray. What's worrying me, is that my dad said one of the radiator hoses felt really hard. I'm now worried that the coolant has frozen in the water pump and the belt shredded when they tried to tow-start it. Or worse, his "dead starter" is because the belt broke yesterday and he flattened the battery driving it. He swears blind that the alternator light wasn't on and the temperature gauge was fine, but...

It's really sad, because he was a mechanic for much of his working life, but I'm sure Dementia is now setting in. I doubt he'll be driving much longer. I'd go down and sort it for him but we're already committed to visiting our daughter this weekend to help her do some stuff. If my dad can just leave it until next week, I could take a day off, but I know what he's like!

Don't suppose he lives Devon way ?? Would pop over and sort it. 150miles from Cumbria doesn't feel like far enough for here !!

andyfreelandy said:

Don't suppose he lives Devon way ?? Would pop over and sort it. 150miles from Cumbria doesn't feel like far enough for here !!

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That's such a kind offer, thank you! But no. Liverpool. He does have some younger mates, still in the trade, so one of them might pop round. Failing that, I'll sort it next week.

Not sure I'd be able to pull the tensioner down at that age. Position, spring tension, lack of access etc. Have enough trouble doing it now !!

andyfreelandy said:

Not sure I'd be able to pull the tensioner down at that age. Position, spring tension, lack of access etc. Have enough trouble doing it now !!

Click to expand...

There's definitely a "knack" to doing the belt tensioner on a TD4.

My concern would be why a recent belt would fail, unless something untoward has happened.

Indeed. Needs investigating.

I had a water pump bearing collapse but, as above, may be frozen ??

The 24mm in this set is fairly good for the tensioner & not rounded one yet. I previously struggled with regular flat spanner & extension, but these with the extra length make it much easier.

Hi everyone,

There was, indeed, more to it

I spoke to him again today. He and another mate had been working on it, they got the new belt on, fired it up and it shredded the new belt.... It does seem like the water pump is cream-crackered. He said he gave it a twiddle before putting the belt on, and it seemed free enough, but he's now found that he can move the pulley in and out a bit - whereupon, it locks solid. So it seems I'm going down to change a water pump - hooray! I've heard it's not the easiest job on a TD4? Does anyone have any pointers, please? When I first got the car, I changed the thermostat (which still seems to be fine). Can the pump be changed without disturbing the thermostat? Does the bottom pulley have to come off? And if so, I'm told that can be a really nasty job too. As yet, the crank damper seems OK, but if the pulley does have to come off, can it (and its bolt) simply be replaced again? Lastly, can someone remind me what size bit I need to get the engine mount off the inner wing, please? I think I might sacrifice a bit and weld it to a flat bar, so I can get in there.

Had the same, bearing collapses in water pump and derails belt.

Pump comes off complete with stat but stat can be swapped to new pump.
It is difficult. Bottom pullets not affected, I did one without touching engine mount. Work through the track rod hole in inner wing.
Took me 4 hours.
Be prepared to make a short socket or cut one down to fit as chassis rail is tight, hence lifting engine would help. I like to leave anything not broken alone if I can !!!

Gasket on block will need cutting as new one is for pump only and manufacturers covered pump and side plate.
New gasket can be stuck on with sealant to hold while putting new pump in position.

It's a bit like delivering a calf through a letter box only not as easy !!

andyfreelandy said:

Had the same, bearing collapses in water pump and derails belt.

Pump comes off complete with stat but stat can be swapped to new pump.
It is difficult. Bottom pullets not affected, I did one without touching engine mount. Work through the track rod hole in inner wing.
Took me 4 hours.
Be prepared to make a short socket or cut one down to fit as chassis rail is tight, hence lifting engine would help. I like to leave anything not broken alone if I can !!!

Gasket on block will need cutting as new one is for pump only and manufacturers covered pump and side plate.
New gasket can be stuck on with sealant to hold while putting new pump in position.

It's a bit like delivering a calf through a letter box only not as easy !!

Click to expand...

Many thanks! That has filled me with good cheer for Christmas! At least, in a way, I'm relieved that it wasn't frozen coolant...

I'm not sure I understand about the gasket though? Is it a paper gasket or an o-ring type moulded one?

It is a metal pressed gasket. You get a new one with the water pump but the old one is part of a larger gasket that covers the whole front of engine. 2 cuts and take old off and replace with new.

andyfreelandy said:

It is a metal pressed gasket. You get a new one with the water pump but the old one is part of a larger gasket that covers the whole front of engine. 2 cuts and take old off and replace with new.

Click to expand...

OK, thanks. I've ordered the bits, they should be getting delivered some time tomorrow and then I'll go down on Friday. Wish me luck!

Good luck.

See 3.6 figure 5.21b in the blue haynes for gasket details.
Haynes tell you to remove cam cover which isn't necessary.

Don't forget to change the 'O' ring to the coolant rail as it will surely fail when you have done the job and requires rail or pump removal to replace it !!

Also, say goodbye to any knuckles you still have !!
Happy Christmas