Haynes manual circuit diagram fault

If anyone has the 3017 manual for the "Landrover 90,110 & defender 1983 to 2007 (upto 56 registration) Diesel" then the circuit diagram is buggered up for the 1991-1996 models. If you email Haynes they will send you a replacement page by email, just got mine

Thought I would let people know.

how do you get the new page? And, what's the fault?

Dobbs said:

how do you get the new page? And, what's the fault?

Click to expand...

Just email them on their enquiry email address and they will send it. Basically the 2nd page has a few bits of writing that are scrambled and unreadable.

In fact I've just noticed another fault which is even worse!

They have dipped headlights listed twice so 2 x left and 2 x right but no main beam....

Does anyone know what colour wires go to the main beam?

Is it

a) LEFT = Blue/pink & RIGHT = Blue/black

or

b) LEFT = Blue/slate & RIGHT = Blue/orange


AND

The accessory socket / cigarette lighter powered from fuse 18 & 13

haynes... the diy manual that says take it to garage. least last one i looked at did

There appear to be more "issues" with the Haynes circuit diagram.....

Position 1 & 2 of the ignition switch appear to be electrically connected which would mean that they would do exactly the same thing! ie white & white/black

The entire fog light circuit diagram makes no sense at all and looks like they've messed it up big style......

I contacted them asking for a new copy, and they mentioned in email about the headlight issue. Apparently its due to a mistake in documentation supplied by land rover

I'm currently in the process of completely going through it producing a new diagram with a list of what each wire colour does etc. I'm looking at the newer landrover's diagrams to see if it helps make sense of it all.

I tried to use the Haynes wiring diagram to put my 90 back together after buying it in boxes. Gave up and started using multimeter and asking on here. Thought I was being daft but now not so sure. My headlamps were the biggest problem as the wiring had been bridged from side to side, but there was nothing wrong once it was connected back up properly and a fuse put in.

Most of the Haynes manuals I have had recently have been a bit rubbish. The original Mini manual from the 70s was great, but the new one with the later injection cars in it was hopeless, loads of info missing that was in the old one.

I'm basically looking at totally re-doing the wiring diagram split up into relevant sections with explanations. I find doing this helps greatly especially when I start to alter things dramatically later.

kes86 said:

I tried to use the Haynes wiring diagram to put my 90 back together after buying it in boxes. Gave up and started using multimeter and asking on here. Thought I was being daft but now not so sure. My headlamps were the biggest problem as the wiring had been bridged from side to side, but there was nothing wrong once it was connected back up properly and a fuse put in.

Most of the Haynes manuals I have had recently have been a bit rubbish. The original Mini manual from the 70s was great, but the new one with the later injection cars in it was hopeless, loads of info missing that was in the old one.

Click to expand...

To many cars now referred to main stealers for 'safety' reasons - it's just an arse covering exercise by Haynes ...

I've had a reply from Haynes, they confirm that I have found yet another fault in their wiring diagram !! The 1st and 2nd position wiring from the ignition switch shorts together in their diagram. Oh and the fog light circuit is actually correct, I've worked out now what it is doing.

I hate the new style Haynes wiring diagrams, the ones they had for the 80/90s Vauxhalls were excellent

now this I can understand!

My mates bought a Vaux Carlton GSI (a few years ago) with a snapped cam belt, cheap. They sourced a secondhand head and put it back together following the Haynes. First turn or the key = big clatter, and bent valves!! The photos and description in the cam belt section were wrong. They managed to replace the valves as it had not started, and I timed the cams by experience/guess and they ended up 180degrees different to the Haynes. Turned it over tentatively by hand, then started fine. Don't trust all you read.

Haynes book of lies

The reality is that often it is the lack of an explanation that is the issue. Here we have the circuit diagram for the defender's side/main/dip/fog light circuit. Without the explanation it is hard to follow unless you have a good understanding of electrics. Whilst I re-do chunks of the electrics I am going to create a decent easy to follow set of plans which I will later publish on here. This one I've just knocked up in five minutes with pen and paper (not that the main point of this was to work out how the fog light circuit was working so I've not included the colours of the side/main/dip wires or their fuses).......

Defender side, main, dip, fog light circuit.......



U = Blue
UP = Blue/purple
R = Red
RY = Red/yellow

and the explanation:

For Light switch in Main/Dip position... Light switch (off/side/main) is fed by permanent live from battery. In main light position it takes the Blue wire to live which in turn is connected to the input of the “rear light relay". When the ignition is ON the rear light relay is switched on also and passes a live connection through to the output of this relay (This stops the main/dip/fogs working when ignition is off). This in turn feeds (fuse 6) which passes the current through to the fog light switch (using the Blue/purple wire) which when pressed completes the circuit and lights the rear fogs and dash mounted fog warning lights (via the red/yellow wire) (this stops the fog lights working unless the main/dip is on). The output of the rear light relay also switches on the “rear fog inhibit relay” which passes a permanent live connection through to the input horn/direction/headlight/dip switch which in turn outputs either UW (main beam) or UR (dip beam) wires which then feed fuses 9/10 and fuses 7/8 to power the bulbs.

For light switch in side light position... Light switch (off/side/main) is fed by permanent live from battery. In side light position it passes power to the red wire which in turn feeds fuses 11/12 to provide power to the side lights.