Have I made a costly mistake?

Probably a duff batt depending on age

No I don't think it's the battery. Just tested it with the multimeter and even after me turning it over repeatedly for the last couple of hours it's still showing 12.6.
How do I test the fuel pump is working?

Adam Gorsuch said:

No I don't think it's the battery. Just tested it with the multimeter and even after me turning it over repeatedly for the last couple of hours it's still showing 12.6.
How do I test the fuel pump is working?

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You should hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds when the ignition is turned on. Oh and it's not unheard of for the rotor arm to just pack up for no apparent reason.

I think the pump has packed up. I disconnected the fuel line at the inlet manifold and turned on the ignition. Online searches suggest this should cause fuel to surge out as its pressurised when on. Even turned the ignition. Nothing. No pumping of fuel, not even a drip. Could be a blocked filter or the o ring seal has split. Gonna start there

First check the fuel pump fuse and relay in the engine bay.

Good shout, but they're sound. The abs relay looks a bit corroded though. So that's another thing to look at. I've ordered a new fuel filter an seals. Read that these have a habit of getting blocked up seeing as how I've never changed it it could be this. Thinking back though some of the symptoms prior to its current state are same as low fuel pressure. And the seals are known to perish stopping all pressure. If that don't work I'll replace the whole pump. New rotor arm ordered an new plugs too

The fuel pump would still run, even when the filter is blocked. Unless the pump motor has packed up completely.
The pump assembly's design is stupid. All these submersible pumps are cooled by the fuel going through them. On this particular design, the fuel flows through the filter after the pump motor, the filtered fuel then passes through the pressure regulator before heading off to the engine. The pump motor is capable of supplying much more fuel than the engine needs. The excess is returned to the tank via the pressure regulator bypass port. This means that the pump/ filter effectively filter the entire tank contents over and over again while the engine is running. This is where things go wrong. Over time, the filter begins to clog. As the filter clogs, the pump motor works harder which increases it's current consumption. This increase in current flow causes the carbon brushes to erode, clogging the filter further. This cycle continues until the pump motor packs up completely (remember it's cooled by fuel flowing through it) or the filter becomes so clogged that not enough fuel finds it's way to the injectors to run the engine.
You can test fuel pump current at the relay. No current would mean the pump motor has already packed up. A high current could mean a clogged filter. A new pump with clean filter should consume around 8 Amps. I've seen a pump with clogged filter consuming almost 15 Amps.
The fuel pressure should be about 65 Psi at the test port, even when the engine is running flat out.

Thank you so much for the above. I have a muilti meter. Is it just a case of sticking a probe either side of the relay and turning the ignition to on? Or do I need someone to turn it over?

You can test the pump by bridging the relay. On a distributor K the fuel pump relay is a funny looking box with some wiring out of the bottom. It's located near the air filter housing. You need to locate the correct wire for the pump motor feed. Then just link between the battery + and the pump feed wire. This bridges the relay completely, powering the pump via your DMM. Be careful as most DMMs have a maximum current of 10 Amps so you only want to do a quick touch against the battery to see what happens. I can't remember the colours of the pump wire off the top of my head.

Sorry to sound stupid. DMM? Also is the relay the fuel cut out switch? Sorry to ask but is there any chance of some pictures from anyone?

Adam Gorsuch said:

Sorry to sound stupid. DMM? Also is the relay the fuel cut out switch? Sorry to ask but is there any chance of some pictures from anyone?

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DMM = Digital multi meter
The fuel cut off switch is just that. It's job is cut the power to the pump in an accident.
The relay for the pump relay in below the fuse box.

Um according to the Haynes the wire is white and purple. Bad times is its show a bit fat 0 amps! Ive checked a few others and they show ampage so it's not the multimeter.:-(
Ordering new pump now. I thought it was the wiring at the pump as the loom had been punched by the rear seats but I've sorted that and they are all connected.

Do you have 12 volts at the pump connector? You should see 12 for a few seconds after the ignition it switched on before it drops to zero again.

All sorted. 10amp fuse had gone in the internal fuse box. This must of been because of a crushed wires to pump. The pump filter was grim blocked at the external mesh. When I emptied the pump of fuel loads of grit and muck came out. Anyway. Fitted new pump and it's running better than ever before. Pulls like a train now. Thanks for all your help

Hi guys, please assist if you can. Having a few gremlins. Stripped the rocker and cam ladder a few weeks ago and refitted with gen rover sealant and correct tourques. Didn't leak for ages but today I've noticed an oil leak again. Highly annoying. Seems to be coming from the cam belt side. Hoping its just the seals. As I reused them. Secondly had new tyres fitted all round yesterday. Makes a massive difference with handling and noise as I noticed that every tire was a different model! Anyhow now I have noticed a noise. It's annoying me and it sounds like a rattle coming from under the gear stick. Normally when I've just stopped the revs take a touch longer to drop and a little rattle noise sounds. I've checked the vcu and its not getting hot on runs etc. Could the bearings be wrecked or something. My other issue is today the horn decided to play up. Would press it and it wouldn't sound. It did after multiple attempts but again annoying.

Just read the whole thread, you need a medal mate.
Not far back you mentioned the tightening or braking on full lock. Have you done the wheel up VCU check?
Can you take pictures of where the oil leak is coming from??
I did the HG on our MG TF, same engine as your freelender and I am struggling to understand where its coming from.
When you used the multi layered gasket, the steel plate is to maintain the compression when the head has been skimmed, but to be honest it sounds a really bad idea to me.
i think the HG is on its way out again on our MG so will try the payen gasket next time
Can you explain from this pic??
you might get better quality parts from a MG specialist

Replace the seals. They should never be reused and are really easy to damage, I messed up fitting one on the gearbox end and refitted it but it leaked badly so needed replaced. If you buy good quality seals they are sided. The cheaper ones can be fitted either side but I wouldn't recommend them.
The rattle could be something as simple as a bolt or such under the gaiter.

Can you fit a scuttle panel off a facelift 1 to a pre?

Yes can't see why not - body is basically the same

And it starts again.
Drove to work today. All fine. Drove home from work and got about two miles before the piece of **** decided it didn't want to play anymore and wouldn't go into gear. Firstly it it was tough and could only seem to get into third but then it wouldn't go into any. So I stopped. When engine not running it smoothly goes into any gear I want. When I try it when the engine is running it will not go into any gear. There was no smell of burning clutch just wouldn't go into gear. Ive checked the master and it has fluid it in. I can't see any leaks. The slave doesn't seem to be leaking but the bracket does move slightly when you engage it. Currently waiting for recovery in the city of London. So ****ed off. Trying to save up for a holiday and this has happened. Fml. Any guesses what could be wrong. Last thing I want is to take it to a garage