Has something gone drastically wrong?

hi all, il try to keep this simple

So my clutch arm/fork got poke thru and I decided while in there to give it the following
-hd arm
-valeo clutch
-spigot bush
-rear main crank seal
-front/input/pinion shaft gearbox seal
I also found and fitted a defender transfer box to compensate for the tyres at the same time

When doing the gearbox seal I removed the end plate with the 2 bearing cups/races in it and found no shims or anything in there so changed the seal and refitted how it was with some sealer making sure the oil ways were clear

However, on test drive the amount of chatter when sat in neutral is unbelievable, non of us have ever heard anything like it, it got a little better but I don’t know if that’s just because it got warmed up but it’s still not good, to the point where I was sat at some traffic lights and people were walking past looking at it so I opened the door and it was echoing across the street!

I see on ashcrofts site that it mentions about new clutch drive plate springs being tight and causing this issue but it’s horrific, really I’m wondering if I could have done something wrong while having the front plate off the gearbox like lost or dropped something even tho I’m sure I didn’t

She’s a 98MY d1 with r380

Any help or advice would be massively appreciated on this

Towsey

I have no idea, but just done clutch in my 200 and was not to impressed wit the rattle at idle on first start up, now 50 odd miles later it seems to be quiet.

lynall said:

I have no idea, but just done clutch in my 200 and was not to impressed wit the rattle at idle on first start up, now 50 odd miles later it seems to be quiet.

Click to expand...

mine did exactly the same, took a good few weeks of driving before it went away, but it wsa no where like the OP states his sound is

Thanks for the replies

Im hoping it’s the clutch and that it will settle down as opposed to it being the box

By the way has anyone paid attention to the temperatures of the boxes, after I drove mine earlier and put it back on the ramp I could hardly touch the transfer box but the gearbox didn’t seem that hot at all really in comparison

Towsey

Clutch rattle, is something LOF touch on with regard there 2.8 TGV clutch for the 300tdi, they say if it is an issue then change the gearbox oil to MTF94. what does yours have in it?

Never had a feel of the tbox after a run , sorry.

Cheers

I actually spoke to Luke from LOF and was wanting that exact clutch but with all this carry on funds just didn’t allow it. Mines on ATF and was fine until today, my only experience with one on MTF94 was a lad I know who changed onto it because his had quite a few miles so wanted to quieten it down a bit but he did about 10 miles and swapped back to ATF as his gear changes were terrible...but I have thought about trying it if this carries on. If I’m honest I want to be sure I’ve done nothing wrong when changing the box seal

Cheers

Towsey

towsey956 said:

hi all, il try to keep this simple

So my clutch arm/fork got poke thru and I decided while in there to give it the following
-hd arm
-valeo clutch
-spigot bush
-rear main crank seal
-front/input/pinion shaft gearbox seal
I also found and fitted a defender transfer box to compensate for the tyres at the same time

When doing the gearbox seal I removed the end plate with the 2 bearing cups/races in it and found no shims or anything in there so changed the seal and refitted how it was with some sealer making sure the oil ways were clear

However, on test drive the amount of chatter when sat in neutral is unbelievable, non of us have ever heard anything like it, it got a little better but I don’t know if that’s just because it got warmed up but it’s still not good, to the point where I was sat at some traffic lights and people were walking past looking at it so I opened the door and it was echoing across the street!

I see on ashcrofts site that it mentions about new clutch drive plate springs being tight and causing this issue but it’s horrific, really I’m wondering if I could have done something wrong while having the front plate off the gearbox like lost or dropped something even tho I’m sure I didn’t

She’s a 98MY d1 with r380

Any help or advice would be massively appreciated on this

Towsey

Click to expand...

it was an issue for lr back in the 90s they altered the clutch plate by adding extra small springs, you still get if using some clutches and hd ones,normally settles down in time

towsey956 said:

I actually spoke to Luke from LOF and was wanting that exact clutch but with all this carry on funds just didn’t allow it. Mines on ATF and was fine until today, my only experience with one on MTF94 was a lad I know who changed onto it because his had quite a few miles so wanted to quieten it down a bit but he did about 10 miles and swapped back to ATF as his gear changes were terrible...but I have thought about trying it if this carries on. If I’m honest I want to be sure I’ve done nothing wrong when changing the box seal

Cheers

Towsey

Click to expand...

I have the 2.8TGV clutch and it is noisier when in neutral , a lot noisier. But I have not changed oil it is still on ATF , I may do in the future.
Lovely clutches by the way.


Cheers

Hi James great to hear from you

Thanks for that, this clutch does have 6 I think, 3 pairs of different sizes and I do hope it settles because WOW!

What do you know about the running temps of the boxes, I thought they would be similar, and what’s the proper way to do the front pinion seal, or do you think it will be the clutch plate

Thanks

Towsey

Thanks neilly, at least now I know what I’m missing haha

towsey956 said:

Hi James great to hear from you

Thanks for that, this clutch does have 6 I think, 3 pairs of different sizes and I do hope it settles because WOW!

What do you know about the running temps of the boxes, I thought they would be similar, and what’s the proper way to do the front pinion seal, or do you think it will be the clutch plate

Thanks

Towsey

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an r380 has the shims behind the sandwhiich plate bearing races not the front like the lt77
t/box usually gets the hottest as oil is thicker, the rattl;e is caused by too stiff a springing why hd is worse for showing it up ,if you look closely in the pic the plate has extra small springs around the splined boss, these were added at the time to cure the problem, you dont see them nowadays

Thanks for that
My clutch is only a valeo with the different coloured springs and wasn’t sold as HD but we will see.
I was sure at the time that I didn’t lose any shims although I was a bit surprised to find the lower cup for the layshaft bearing floating around with a snap ring round it rather than being pressed in. I’m only so concerned because I’ve interrupted the gearbox bearings And done a couple of other jobs and now have a noise which I’m sure you understand

This transfer box is new to me, I’ve gone from my 36d to a 43d from an ‘05 110 that came from a friend of a friend but my concern is for a couple of reasons, one being that I’ve had the intermediate shaft loose to do the o rings and found that once the stake nut was unstaked it was actually loose so I just took the slack out and checked for no endfloat, and I also had the input gear out so was hoping that my amount of sealer is adequate for those bearings, the last being that it looks as though someone has had the front housing off before the person I bought it from going by the different and newer sealer and the copper slip on the flange nut so...? I have never paid attention to the temps of the boxes before but I touch3d them both a few mins after it was put on the ramp and the gearbox was warm but the tbox was definitely what can only be called fairly hot,

Thanks again

Towsey

towsey956 said:

Thanks for that
My clutch is only a valeo with the different coloured springs and wasn’t sold as HD but we will see.
I was sure at the time that I didn’t lose any shims although I was a bit surprised to find the lower cup for the layshaft bearing floating around with a snap ring round it rather than being pressed in. I’m only so concerned because I’ve interrupted the gearbox bearings And done a couple of other jobs and now have a noise which I’m sure you understand

This transfer box is new to me, I’ve gone from my 36d to a 43d from an ‘05 110 that came from a friend of a friend but my concern is for a couple of reasons, one being that I’ve had the intermediate shaft loose to do the o rings and found that once the stake nut was unstaked it was actually loose so I just took the slack out and checked for no endfloat, and I also had the input gear out so was hoping that my amount of sealer is adequate for those bearings, the last being that it looks as though someone has had the front housing off before the person I bought it from going by the different and newer sealer and the copper slip on the flange nut so...? I have never paid attention to the temps of the boxes before but I touch3d them both a few mins after it was put on the ramp and the gearbox was warm but the tbox was definitely what can only be called fairly hot,

Thanks again

Towsey

Click to expand...

the bearing races are a loose fit which is why i loctite them in during a rebuild, you wont have caused any harm, the snap ring was later not used it doesnt really do anything

When I took it off there was sealer round the race so I let some back in there again but not behind it.
Going on what I’ve said here do you think I should have any concerns about the tbox, I don’t know how sensitive to accuracy they are, or is that answered by the green oval ha. I was just worried bearings might be too tight causing the heat???

Towsey