Harmon Kardon fault finding

Hello all,
Just joined your forum as i am no the proud owner of a 2002 p38 westminster diesel range rover.
I have a few questions if any one can help. it has the Harmon Kardon with dsp fitted
The fault is when the radio is off you open the car and all the right hand front speaker and sub on the dash emit a ticking crackle noise when the engine is started it stops. Now then when the engine is running you turn the radio or cd on it crackles and ticks all the time over the sound being emitted.There dosnt appear to be anything wrong with the sound other than the noise over the top of the sound.
The noise is only over the drivers side front tweeter main door speaker and sub on top of dash.
I have isolated the fault a little. If from the stereo you fade everything to the rear the the crackle constant tick stops, if you put the balance all over the n/s it stops,.So everything seems to be the o/s/f door.
Anyone got any ideas wiring diagrams how to fault check further ? I see there are a lot of door amplifiers advertised on ebay as it seems they have individual amp in each door is this a likely cause faulty door amp.
Any ideas suggestions etc appreciated. Ill post a few more questions that I have seperatley.
Thanks in advance for any replies I can upload a video if anyone thinks this might help.

First job look at the white connector behind trim panel at base of drivers A post. Check for water damage and corrosion.

If you have the DSP amp in the rear you don't have door amps.

The fault will be your amp that's the hiss of death

You will have the DSP amp in the boot . Speakers are a nightmare to get hold of BTW (same bespoke system as mine).

The DSP amp usually fails completely or with doors dropping out rather than a crackle over the top of the audio.

From memory, there is a connector behind the BECM which is Light Grey in colour which the audio lines to the RHF door go through (It's listed as being 18 way with 5 empty pins - possibly only 3 empty on a Westminster with the extra dash speaker.

I would check that for corrosion , also the front kick panel connectors that Wammers mentions, and also finally the connectors that join the vehicle loom to the door loom, as they can also corrode. they are a bit further up than the normal kick panel connectors that are referenced, and can be found by releasing the rubber cable gland to the door on the Body/Vehicle side - and the connectors should pull through from there. I've found a few now that are a bit green and horrible.

Thanks guys gives me some things to check here are a few images of the door amp I think its an amp ? and wiring issue someone has tampered with it.
Cant work out how to put a video up yet will try to work it out and post a video of the noise it might help.
The wiring has been tampered with on the N/S front door i m not having a problems with the speakers or sound or anything else on that door on that side but I having issue with the electric window on that side multiplug to the motor there are 6 pins when I operate the window switch up or down it clicks from the black box in door the amp ? There are two heavey wires to the motor grey and white ,and grey and green these power up when the switch is operated I used multimeter to earth and operated the switch. So I assumed motor U/s got another no different. Where do i go from here to fault find further was after a pinout for the remaining wires in the multiplug ? Finally could this wiring be causing my ticking noise on the /o/s/f speakers and centre dash speaker ?

Thanks in advance Ill update when I have done what you have already suggested.

I've written out a load of things about the window and wiring in your other thread you have started on it, so won't repeat it here.

I would look at downloading RAVE which is the workshop manual for these vehicles, and it has wiring diagrams for most of the electrical side of things included, and descriptions of how they are supposed to work.

As mentioned in the other threads you have - the black box in the door is NOT an amplifier for the stereo, it is a control outstation for the BECM to control the window, mirror, and locking. The speaker wiring all runs back to the single DSP amplifier in the boot.

martyuk said:

I've written out a load of things about the window and wiring in your other thread you have started on it, so won't repeat it here.

I would look at downloading RAVE which is the workshop manual for these vehicles, and it has wiring diagrams for most of the electrical side of things included, and descriptions of how they are supposed to work.

As mentioned in the other threads you have - the black box in the door is NOT an amplifier for the stereo, it is a control outstation for the BECM to control the window, mirror, and locking. The speaker wiring all runs back to the single DSP amplifier in the boot.

Click to expand...

Had a go at some of the suggestions today so far I gound one of the balck wires broken going through the door I have soldered in a new peice and fed it through the door behind the kick panel I know have continuity from the both black wired on the dorr control unit through the door and into the footwell i have found the original ends in the loom and soldered together.

I have a few questions regarding the two black earth wires.

I know I have continuity as far as where I have joined the wires back into the loom behind the kick panel.
How can I find where they go to so I can check the full length of the loom for continuity ?

Also If I have soldered the black wires to the wrong black wires does it matter as they are earths, or can this effect things ie switching just a thought ?

one appeared to be thicker than the other so I opted to join them thick to thick thin to thin.

Should I run a remote earth to my joins incase the rest of the loom I have rejoined and soldered together is not earthed at the other end of where the loom goes ?

I am did find a small amount of green in the white multiplug behind the n/s kick panel have cleaned this. going to start on the becm plug and o/s door connectors tomorrow, as advised ,whilst I have the o/s door panel off going to plug the used door motor in to confirm the motor is good. then at least I can eliminate that then look at the wiring somemore.
I also unplugged the sat nav unit and the interference was a lot quieter although still there. When I plugged it back in(everything switched off keys out of ignition)the tick tick repeat sound came on loud again and it woundnt stop until I turned ignition on and off, dont know if this points to anything.

Also when radio off driving and sat nav on when the voice direction comes on the tick tick sounds comes on as voice talks then stops when the voice stops ?

everyones help has been great be be well chuffed if I can sort it or at least work out what I need to put it right.

Thanks

again

Sorry - I've headed away for work and been really busy the last few days, so haven't been online much!

I'll reply quickly now, and will write more if necessary in the morning.

The 2 black wires should be joined thick-thick, thin-thin as you have done, so all good there. They should run back through the rubber sheath between the door and the bodywork, where they then go into a connector on the bodywork side. (which are known to corrode - so worth checking them). They then run from there down through the left side sill in the main body loom (up higher then the connector behind the kick panel) and terminate at a ground point to the bodywork behind the trim, behind the LH rear seat. It is a bit of a pain to get the trim out and into that area, but the easy way to test it is to check for continuity between the black wires and an unpainted part of the bodywork. If you have a nice clean and solid connection on both wires, then the rest of the loom and ground point are obviously OK. (otherwise you would have a bad/no connection to ground.).

The tick tick sound might be from the sat nav unit - but it's worth making sure all the grounding is working properly first as a bad ground can cause all kinds of problems!

Hope this helps,

Marty