Hard brakes and history

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Rodeo Joe said:
Hard pedal can be caused by incorrect adjustment of the servo rod to the master cylinder.
Click to expand...
Rodeo Joe, could you elaborate on the above? I may not have set the servo up correctly I didn’t know there was servo rod adjustment. I am assuming the original was correct, I still have that but can’t see any adjustment unless It’s on the eye end covered by the rubber collar? Thanks
 
Captain Cavemen said:
Rodeo Joe, could you elaborate on the above? I may not have set the servo up correctly I didn’t know there was servo rod adjustment. I am assuming the original was correct, I still have that but can’t see any adjustment unless It’s on the eye end covered by the rubber collar? Thanks
Click to expand...
end of the rod has an adjustable screw end, you press pedal down so rod pokes out as much as it can hold rod with mole rips or decent pliers,screw in ie clockwise to give more play other way for less
 
Captain Cavemen said:
Rodeo Joe, could you elaborate on the above? I may not have set the servo up correctly I didn’t know there was servo rod adjustment. I am assuming the original was correct, I still have that but can’t see any adjustment unless It’s on the eye end covered by the rubber collar? Thanks
Click to expand...
As James said, theres ways to measure how much clearance you have between the tip of the rod and the master cylinder but the best way to tell if its ok is by feel. By that I mean if you push the pedal you will (or should) feel a small gap......its hard to explain but try it and see. If theres no gap you won't feel a change in resistance on the pedal and it will need the rod adjuster screwing in a bit. There must be a bit of free play to let the ports in the master cylinder operate correctly.
 
It does sound like the servo is not doing what it should. Pump the brakes a few times to clear any vacuum, press the pedal hard and start the engine, it should go down noticably.
 
rob1miles said:
It does sound like the servo is not doing what it should. Pump the brakes a few times to clear any vacuum, press the pedal hard and start the engine, it should go down noticably.
Click to expand...
if its not adjusted, then I could see its possibly not building a vacuum to start with. ie if the valve isn't completely closing when you take your foot off the brake pedal
 
Thanks all, I have just checked and there is about 1/2- 3/4 inch of loose play (no pressure) in the pedal before it goes hard.

I think I will try and take the master cylinder off again at the weekend and check the pedal feel to see if the servo is working (I realise there will be no resistance) but it’s the only thing I can think of. I can also check the rod position compared to the old one. after that I have to wait for a mate to bleed through with.

On the basis it’s a new master does anyone have a view on britpart or OEM verses a seals kit?

Thanks again for all the advice.
 
Captain Cavemen said:
Thanks all, I have just checked and there is about 1/2- 3/4 inch of loose play (no pressure) in the pedal before it goes hard.

I think I will try and take the master cylinder off again at the weekend and check the pedal feel to see if the servo is working (I realise there will be no resistance) but it’s the only thing I can think of. I can also check the rod position compared to the old one. after that I have to wait for a mate to bleed through with.

On the basis it’s a new master does anyone have a view on britpart or OEM verses a seals kit?

Thanks again for all the advice.
Click to expand...
Don't waste your time with seal kits they're crap.
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Don't waste your time with seal kits they're crap.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rodeo Joe, I didn’t fancy getting that fluid everywhere good excuse for a new part. The question might then be are the dual line replacements from Britpart any good c.£50 or do I need to save up for a now out of stock Lucas one for more like £250? Don’t like taking chances with brakes especially if I have a trailer on the back.
 
Captain Cavemen said:
Thanks Rodeo Joe, I didn’t fancy getting that fluid everywhere good excuse for a new part. The question might then be are the dual line replacements from Britpart any good c.£50 or do I need to save up for a now out of stock Lucas one for more like £250? Don’t like taking chances with brakes especially if I have a trailer on the back.
Click to expand...
Well I just got a Britpart one on my 109, it doesn't leak yet but its only been on a month and can't drive it on the road yet due to dvla shutdown.
 
you should be fine safety wise with britpart brake parts, just my personal opinion.
they wont want an accident with their name on it, with all the corporate pain that follows
 
My BP master cyliner is still doing fine after 3 years. Got BP rear slaves and was very dispointed witht he quality - the studs were poorly fixed, but it was a weekend so I fitted them. As a result bouhgt a full set of Delphi and fitted the fronts but never got round to taking the BP off the rear. 10,000 miles on and the more expensive Delphi's (iron) leaked like seives and not a drop from the cheap ally BPs. No no rhyme or reason to what works best.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Bushfed
Service history
Replies
8
Views
690
Bushfed
Bushfed
D
Series 3 Ex MOD ignition timing
Replies
8
Views
564
Diggerat35
D
W
Engine Number identification
Replies
3
Views
610
JUKE179r
JUKE179r
O
Series 3 Series 3 2.5 diesel Not Starting
Replies
8
Views
385
Bobsticle
Bobsticle
F
Parallel glow plugs
Replies
13
Views
761
steve2286w
steve2286w
Back
Top