handpainting

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Use search on this forum or google 'hand painting a car'. Plenty of good sites including this one will come up.

I have a few saved as favourits, but not on this PC.
 
just a Nato Green Ex Military paint with a 14% sheen. You can get 5 lts for about £45 on fle bay

I did the same, came out really nice. The final result is partly down to your prep work so it really pays to put a lot of time into stripping it and prepping it. W
 
just changed what could be my profile pic so you can see how it came out. Still got a few bits to do but will have to wait untill next weekend :-(
 
I did this to my mini when I had it. Posted a tutorial about it on a mini owners forum, and reposted it somewhere on this site too. It's fairly comprehensive. Covers, the preparation, type of rollers, paint, drying times, no. coats, etc. and has quite a few pics from start to finish.
I'm sure if you search around for it, you'll see it on one of the roller painting threads.

The paint I used, as recommended by all the VW, and mini forums, was Rustoleum combicolour. I can't quite remember the people I ordered it from, but they were fantastic. They mixed the paint I wanted, for little or no extra cost. I needed British Motor Corp. Tartan Red (So you could say tartan paint, does in fact exist:rolleyes:). Anyway, it was mixed, tinned up, and I received it within a few days, and at a very reasonable price.

It doesn't require primer, you just rub down, panel wipe, and roll it on. One of the problems with painting with foam rollers as is the norm, is that as you roll the paint on, you get air bubbles form which are impossible to eradicate. They dry and produce the 'orange peel' effect. Not noticeable from a metre or more away, but up close, it's very visible that's it's not a proper job. Having said that, it's more than adequate for a Landy, especially a series.

It takes a fair bit of patience, and the biggest tip I can give you, is give the paint a good couple of days after it's final coat, to cure before bolting the headlights back in, etc. Otherwise, you'll have soft paint being scratched away everywhere, and you'll get sticky fingerprints over the interior and windows, as you move about the vehicle touching it with slightly moist paint still.

Good luck.
 
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Oh with regard to the time, I think it took me about 4-5 full days of rubbing down, unbolting bits, filling, sanding, and priming the bare metal areas, to get it ready for painting.

The painting stage took about 3 days. I began painting one evening and it took about 2-3 hours to do one whole coat. I then went back the next morning and gave it another coat. Did the same that evening. Then on the evening of the third day, I gave it another full coat, and on the fourth day I believe I started to rebuild the car. (It was roughly along those lines anyway).

I painted inside, in a fairly dusty garage. Before painting, I tidied and swept the concrete floor as much as possible, to get rid of some of the loose dust on the floor. I also stapled plastic sheeting above head to the wooden beams, so that any slithers or chips of wood and dust didn't fall into the paintwork while it was drying.

From start to finish, it probably took about 2 weeks at most, but I have read of people doing it over a weekend.
 
Oh with regard to the time, I think it took me about 4-5 full days of rubbing down, unbolting bits, filling, sanding, and priming the bare metal areas, to get it ready for painting.

The painting stage took about 3 days. I began painting one evening and it took about 2-3 hours to do one whole coat. I then went back the next morning and gave it another coat. Did the same that evening. Then on the evening of the third day, I gave it another full coat, and on the fourth day I believe I started to rebuild the car. (It was roughly along those lines anyway).

I painted inside, in a fairly dusty garage. Before painting, I tidied and swept the concrete floor as much as possible, to get rid of some of the loose dust on the floor. I also stapled plastic sheeting above head to the wooden beams, so that any slithers or chips of wood and dust didn't fall into the paintwork while it was drying.

From start to finish, it probably took about 2 weeks at most, but I have read of people doing it over a weekend.

I've read your tutorial. It was very good :)

I'll be doing mine next year. Don't want to be doing it in the winter as the colder temperatures will make it harde for the paint to dry properly.

I'd like to do mine witha proper spray gun and a compressor as i believe they are more economical on the paint, but funds may dicate that I go down the roller route...

I cant really justify the cost of painting my Landy as I should really spend the money on steering and brakes first :(
 
Oh with regard to the time, I think it took me about 4-5 full days of rubbing down, unbolting bits, filling, sanding, and priming the bare metal areas, to get it ready for painting.

The painting stage took about 3 days. I began painting one evening and it took about 2-3 hours to do one whole coat. I then went back the next morning and gave it another coat. Did the same that evening. Then on the evening of the third day, I gave it another full coat, and on the fourth day I believe I started to rebuild the car. (It was roughly along those lines anyway).

I painted inside, in a fairly dusty garage. Before painting, I tidied and swept the concrete floor as much as possible, to get rid of some of the loose dust on the floor. I also stapled plastic sheeting above head to the wooden beams, so that any slithers or chips of wood and dust didn't fall into the paintwork while it was drying.

From start to finish, it probably took about 2 weeks at most, but I have read of people doing it over a weekend.

tanx lads just wanted to be armed with afew ideas
 
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