Hammerite

Hi everyone,
With my 1988 110 it has quite a lot of rust patches which need treating. I already have some hammerite which i got given. For treating the patches is hammerite good for the job when you have sanded the patches back.
Yours Sincerely Burtie

Yes if you prime it first.

T'is ok.

But follow the instructions on the tin.

Too thin an application or too early second coat and you may as well not have bothered.

Personally I'd treat with rust inhibitor like Jenolite, Zinc rich primer, then Hammerite
maybe a bit belts and braces but I guess it depends how soon you're going to want to re-do it

Burtie2904 said:

Hi everyone,
With my 1988 110 it has quite a lot of rust patches which need treating. I already have some hammerite which i got given. For treating the patches is hammerite good for the job when you have sanded the patches back.
Yours Sincerely Burtie

Click to expand...

I would get some rust killer or rust resistant primer on before the Hammmerite if it was me.

welder works best !

grind/sand off the rust, then hammerite it. Don't just go over the top.

Is it me or is the more 'modern' hammerite total ****e compared to the oil based one a few years ago? Used the new stuff once but never again :-(

Personally I'd go for POR15 over Hammerite every day of the week.....

wirral_series2a said:

Is it me or is the more 'modern' hammerite total ****e compared to the oil based one a few years ago? Used the new stuff once but never again :-(

Click to expand...

Yes.... Tis watery rubbish imho.
As for 'paint directly to rust'... No way! 10 years ago when it was that gloopy thick, magically self levelling stuff then maybe.... But since the changed to VOC free its been rubbish.

Use it as a topcoat by all means but it is nothing special anymore.

I had to refinish a 'restored' 60s swivel chair that someone had painted with hammerite. Brush lines everywhere ang generally appalling finish. I blasted it all off thenbought aerosol hammerite to match the other bits. I evenuall mastered how to get a good smooth finish but that was after alot of curing periods, sanding and thin coats being baked in the oven.

So many better products out there these days.....

Here is my 10p's worth.

Hammerite is fine although it does chip and its hard to get a great finish.

Have a look at milkstone remover from Farm suppliers good for treating rust on a budget £10 to £15 for 5L

Not many farm suppliers near me so tend to pick this up on my travels and the last tractor paint I got was £16.17 from decorating direct.

Have a look at flag rust converter water based paint £17.83 from Toolstation and top coat it with tractor paint this works really well and is a cheap option.
If you want to spend a little more POR 15 is fantastic however it costs a lot more and takes a lot longer.

Stage one use their cleaner to ensure the chassis is clean after rub down and brushing the cheaper option is to use generic panel clean never had an issue with this.
Stage two use metal prep to sort the remaining rust out (do not use an alternative)
Stage three Apply POR 15 is hard as nails and use cling film under the lid so you can get the lid of in future stores well in the fridge.
Stage four POR 15 is not UV stable so needs another coat to cover I have used Tractor black and even metal paint from Aldi and had no issue and of course Frost also supply chassis black to cover the POR15 if money is no object.

Everyone will give you there own version of how to paint their chassis I just tend to use what I need depending on time money and conditions.