Grindy gears

My '95 300 tdi makes a grinding noise when selecting 2nd gear from 1st if I don't let the revs drop enough. Other changes are fine.

Is this serious? expensive?

I've been told "they all do that" and "you'll get used to it". What do you think?

it aint a racing car 'box. have a slight pause in neutral before going to next gear.
oh.....they all do that but you'll get used to it

my 200 does it different box though - all Landies require a knowing hand it's part of their character.

RodB said:

My '95 300 tdi makes a grinding noise when selecting 2nd gear from 1st if I don't let the revs drop enough. Other changes are fine.

Is this serious? expensive?

I've been told "they all do that" and "you'll get used to it". What do you think?

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If you accelerate away hard in first gear in any Defender, you'll more than likely find that your syncro will force you into at least third gear to prevent you experiencing a massive transmission jolt, a mechanism which I think you're fighting. You need to bear in mind the fact that Defenders were designed with gear ratios that enable you to set off rolling from a stand still with a very heavy load (such as a trailer full of breeze blocks for example). Personally, I avoid first gear and I always set off in second. I don't need to slip the clutch and it pulls away just as I imagine a modern car would in first gear. The only time I ever use first gear is if I'm carrying some weight and I'm on a bit of an incline, but I'll spend no more than two seconds in first before I jump to second. If you're not convinced, set off in first until you start rolling and then immediately change into second gear (no more than two seconds in first gear). It'll pull away and accelerate just as well and hopefuly without the crunching. The same applies when changing down gears. On older Defenders like my own, you'll find yourself having to double de-clutch in order to change down gears when engine breaking or skipping gears altogether. It's perfectly normal, and it's there for a reason, so just get used to it.

-Pos

Thanks for the reassurance guys.
Great explanation Pos!

I'll get used to it.

RodB said:

Thanks for the reassurance guys.
Great explanation Pos!

I'll get used to it.

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No problem. Another thing to bear in mind is the fact that the gearbox has its own oil pump and lubrication system. In some cases when you experience crunching or 'hesitation' when trying to change gears, it's your gearbox telling you that it needs an oil change or that the pump has failed (unlikely). I'm not sure which oil the R380 box takes, but it's a simple job and you shouldn't have to worry about it again for a couple of years - it certainly does not have to be changed as often as you'd change the engine oil. Generally speaking though, the behavior that you've mentioned sounds perfectly normal and it's just a matter of adapting how fast you take off in your lower down gears.

-Pos

pos said:

I'm not sure which oil the R380 box takes

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Not sure if it runs same spec in Defender as RR, but started out specifying ATF, and then switched to MTF in later models.

kernowdragon said:

Not sure if it runs same spec in Defender as RR, but started out specifying ATF, and then switched to MTF in later models.

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Just like the lT77 in the earlier 90's and 110's then.

Rod, if you do go ahead and swap your gearbox oil, you may as well replace the transfer box oil whilst you're under the vehicle. You'll need to use EP90 (Dexron II I believe?) for the transfer box however, not the same oil that you use for the gearbox. Any remaining EP90 can also be used in your axles to lubricate the differentials.

-Pos